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Does anyone know what these are used for, and what kind of engine data I can pull from here? They are located under the helm area, below the steering wheel. My Smartcraft is almost unreadable, and I am researching alternatives.

Thanks,

Matt
 

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Does anyone know what these are used for, and what kind of engine data I can pull from here? They are located under the helm area, below the steering wheel. My Smartcraft is almost unreadable, and I am researching alternatives.

Thanks,

Matt

If you can ever figure out a way to get it up to 88 that's where the flux capacitor will hook up!
 
While doing my oil change yesterday for first time since ownership, which Reverso is the best thing since sliced bread, an observation was when the port start switch was activated the fuel pumps kicked on and never stopped and I also had no beep sound. The stbd side when start switch activated the fuel pump starts, never stopped, had a beep sound. Does this sound normal?
 
villian style.....just checking on a couple of things: Did you fill the oil filter with fresh oil when you replaced it? My understanding is the "constant beep" you hear when the start switch is moved to the 1st position is actually the Low Oil Pressure audible alarm. Which makes sense since the engine is off. Prior to the oil change, when you ran the engines to warm up the oil and dissipate any moisture from the crankcase, did the "beeping" occur as in your post-oil change start, or was it "regular"?

Just spitballing here.....

Jaybeaux
 
Same beeps and fuel pump pressurizing action are the same as before and after oil change. No difference there. And yes, I filled oil filter with fresh oil and then installed. I guess I’m wondering do I have an alarm that should be alarming on port when start switch in First position? And second do the fuel
Pumps pressurizing just continuously run until you start engine? In my 8.1s gas engines they would run and then stop after a few seconds. Then I would start engine.
 
Same beeps and fuel pump pressurizing action are the same as before and after oil change. No difference there. And yes, I filled oil filter with fresh oil and then installed. I guess I’m wondering do I have an alarm that should be alarming on port when start switch in First position? And second do the fuel
Pumps pressurizing just continuously run until you start engine? In my 8.1s gas engines they would run and then stop after a few seconds. Then I would start engine.


They only run for 10-30 seconds (depending on how fast you count)
 
They changed the TV location from my year to yours so might be different. My IR receiver "eye" is under the counter top above the freezer. The wire runs over to the repeater that is in behind the corner cabinet that houses the DVD player. I just replaced the DVD player and had to remove the access panel in the back of that cabinet to get to the plug for the DVD. That's where I saw the little box like yours, wire tied just under the vent from the master. That little cigarette pack sized box has a wire coming from the eye, a wire to the eye on the DVD player and power cord going to the 110v receptacle that it shares with the DVD player.

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Searched for an "eye" and didn't find one.

Took apart the access panel and only saw this wire connection.
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Should have tried to fish out the box through the vent slot and opened 'er up, but ran low on time.
 
SeaRay 420/440 Sundancer Cabinet Push Knob Replacement

A few of the push knobs / latches on my boat were either broken or not closing correctly. In the past I have ordered these from the Sea Ray dealer - but I also recently found them on www.fpmarine.com.

1) Screen Shot 2018-10-29 at 6.26.19 PM.png - The latch assembly (shown here with the knob screwed on) is available for $7.57 each. This replaces Sea Ray part #772418. If you search for that number on the FPMarine site, this assembly will show up. The assembly is slightly different shape than the OEM, but it fits the screw holes, knob and latch bolt so what more could one ask?

2) Screen Shot 2018-10-29 at 6.29.25 PM.png - They also sell the replacement knobs either in plastic or metal. I notice the OEM plastic ones tended to break over time - so I spent a little more ($6.52 each) for the metal ones. Just search for "HAF-Knob Nickel" on their website.

3) Screen Shot 2018-10-29 at 6.31.36 PM.png - Replacement was a breeze and just involved removing / replacing two phillips head screws. I noticed when I had the screws in completely tight, the knob wouldn't always pop out - so I loosened the screws a 1/4 or 1/2 turn and the knob then had no problem popping out.

Screen Shot 2018-10-29 at 6.37.31 PM.png FP Marine also had the matching dashboard lit up rocker switches in various configurations (e.g. single pole / double pole / etc) as well as the rocker with the blue lens that matches the other switches on my dashboard. The single pole on/off switches (V1D1-2) which replaces SeaRay Part#648097 are $6.78 each

Screen Shot 2018-10-29 at 6.38.00 PM.png and the blue lens rocker Part#679324 are $2.55 each.
 
Anybody use Infinity Woven Vinyl or something similar for their cockpit? Did you do wall to wall or individual hatch pieces. If you do individual your left with thin pieces to give it a wall to wall look especially around the aft C couch. I am planning on velcro so might not be an issue.... Just curious if anyone has pics and what you did.
 
Winterization 2018 is in the books! Boo. Included Heat Exchanger and After Cooler Maintenance. Also changed out the oil coolers and thermostats when we did the tear down a few weeks ago. Pretty simple in hindsight. Took less than 4 hours to get everything installed. We probably spent more time checking, double checking, and triple checking before we fired the engines. One or two small leaks that were easily handled by tightening the hose clamps. Needless to say, I was VERY pleased.

From there it was a fuel up, a pump out, AC winterization, oil changes (3), and three engine winterizations. ****PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT***** Do not forget to remove the small plug fro your sea cocks and drain the water out of there. You can either blow it out with a small tube (think aquarium tubing) or today, I used a Moeller Oil Extractor. Both have served me well.

Now for some annual stats. Let me say it was an AWEFUL year for boating in the Mid-Atlantic, specifically the Upper Potomac River. So much rain/so much debris. I was happy for all of our Canadian friends who enjoyed one of the best years ever. So, we bought our boat in August of 2016, so this is the 3rd time that I've put her to bed. The numbers......

Year Hours Gallons GPH (avg, per engine)
2016 35 285 8.1
2017 87 588 6.8
2018 51 260 5.1

I get so engrossed in what we are doing, that I forget to take pictures. If anyone has any questions about what I did, feel free to hit me up.

Thanks to all of you for sharing your experiences and your emails to help me accomplish these tasks. It is greatly appreciated.

Jaybeaux, standing by on Channel 16.
 
In reading Jaybraux’s post I noticed how seemingly easily his winterization of his AC was...not in my case. Every other system and engine winterization went fine but I cant get pink to pee out ANY of the 3 holes. I thought I might have lost prime at the pump but the pump is happy to pump water all over the bilge when I take off the outlet hose....help!
 
In reading Jaybraux’s post I noticed how seemingly easily his winterization of his AC was...not in my case. Every other system and engine winterization went fine but I cant get pink to pee out ANY of the 3 holes. I thought I might have lost prime at the pump but the pump is happy to pump water all over the bilge when I take off the outlet hose....help!

I'll be doing mine next weekend. Are you creating a vacuum with a bottle of pink, instead of pouring it in through the strainer?
 
brewster.....I changed my procedure this year after having problems my first year. This time, I backflushed the AC lines from the thru-hull back to the open strainer with dock water until it ran clean. Lots of muddy gunk came out! Then we used a drill pump to pump pink from the thru-hull back to the strainer. Because the lines join together right above the pump, it was easy to tell when each was thoroughly "pinked". When switching to the second one, you get a slug of clear water, and then the pink shows up. An easy tell.

I tried going thru the strainer with a Sea Flush the first year, and couldn't get it to pump out of the forward AC discharge. I must have wasted 15 gallons of pink!!!!

This year I used an air compressor to remove water from my freshwater system. You could also do that to blow out the water from your AC lines too, I would think.

Jaybeaux
 
Jaybeaux...just an idea...I havent done it but couldn't you just plug the thru hull with a rubber stop and pump from the strainer... then move the plug to the other thru hull and repeat. It might be a bit cleaner in the bildge
 
For clarity, when you say plugging the thru hull, are you referring to the AC water discharge on the side of the hull or are you referring to the thru hull through the bottom of the hull? If the latter, you can just close the sea cock and then pump (read that as push) the pink stuff through the AC circuit and discharge it out the side. This will work if you have a "big enough" pump....like a small bilge pump. The problem I had last year when I tried it this way was I only had a drill pump. It barely had enough a$$ to push pink through both AC circuits. On my boat, there is only 1 pump, which then splits in to two lines going to each of the AC units. This year, by going backwards, in addition to getting a backflush with dock water, my drill pump handled it much better.

Did I answer your question?

Jaybeaux
 
Did I answer your question?
I'm just bored... if you did it in the water. You could close the seacock plug one thru hull discharge...turn on pump with strainer full of pink plus pour it in...switch plug to other discharge.
 
Well I agree with Jaybeaux’s method but my boat is not on the hard it’s floating in it’s slip. I will likely get an air compressor and blow out the water in the AC line after the pump....does that sound right? The pump itself now doesn’t seem to be able to pump hard enough to get pink (poured into the strainer) to come out the thru hulls. This all started when I opened the strainer with the AC pump running....in went air and that was the end of the peel hole discharge.
 
Jaybeaux...just an idea...I havent done it but couldn't you just plug the thru hull with a rubber stop and pump from the strainer... then move the plug to the other thru hull and repeat. It might be a bit cleaner in the bildge

Blueone....after reading your post, like 5 times, and replying, I now see what you are saying......got to love message boards!
 
Wanted to protect the boat from "can rash" so I cut some pieces of white vinyl under the holders. Can barely see them - except for the one at the helm. Will probably take that one off and replace with a closer color.

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