40 sedan bridge forum

Pierpressure1 said:
Thinking ahead to next month when I have to winterize my 98 400 Sedan Bridge. Does anyone with the Cat 3116 remember how many gallons of AF it took to do all three motors and the hvac system? Planning on blowing out the fresh water system as I have done in the past with my 340 and rv.
Click to expand...
I suspect CAT and Cummins are the same. I run 18 gallons total. 5 each engine, 1-2 on gen. 3-4 on water system......from pumps fwd. Remaining down the toilets.
 
Steve S said:
Thanks figured out how to remove it. Need to find a midget to climb into the lower cabinet to find and unplug the electric plug.
Click to expand...

Any chance you can send me a picture of where this screw is? I have not been able to remove this coffee maker in 2-3 attempts. I must be missing something. Did you replace it with a new coffeemaker or just use the space for extra storage?
 
truk911 said:
I'm starting to plan an electronics upgrade of the original 2001 vintage Raymarine equipment and would love to see/hear what others have done. Feel free to email me (kurtlentsch@gmail.com) any pictures or details of what you went with (I'm leaning towards RayMarine again) and I would love to hear what others have done and how the laid out their helms. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Following this post. I still have the original electronics in my 98. But I am more interested in the Garmin product.
 
truk911 said:
Any chance you can send me a picture of where this screw is? I have not been able to remove this coffee maker in 2-3 attempts. I must be missing something. Did you replace it with a new coffeemaker or just use the space for extra storage?
Click to expand...
Truk - there is a single screw on the left side inside where the coffee pot sits that holds it to the frame. A dock neighbor removed his coffee maker on his new to him boat (exact same model coffee maker except it was a slightly newer version, black instead of white and unused) and I simply replaced my old one that didn't work.
 
Steve S said:
Truk - there is a single screw on the left side inside where the coffee pot sits that holds it to the frame. A dock neighbor removed his coffee maker on his new to him boat (exact same model coffee maker except it was a slightly newer version, black instead of white and unused) and I simply replaced my old one that didn't work.
Click to expand...
I have the white space maker unit that I recently removed if anyone is interested. Hate to toss it so free to a good home.
 
PMC said:
I suspect CAT and Cummins are the same. I run 18 gallons total. 5 each engine, 1-2 on gen. 3-4 on water system......from pumps fwd. Remaining down the toilets.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply. I will pick up a couple extra gallons just in case.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
Thinking ahead to next month when I have to winterize my 98 400 Sedan Bridge. Does anyone with the Cat 3116 remember how many gallons of AF it took to do all three motors and the hvac system? Planning on blowing out the fresh water system as I have done in the past with my 340 and rv.
Click to expand...

I did 6 in each engine, 4 for the genny, 2-3 for the HVAC, and about 6 for the water system and tank. I disconnect the heater, bypass it, and let the water drain out of it (i never put AF through the heater).
 
Prosideus said:
We used to keep our boat at pickwick when we first bought it. If you are ever in Nashville, hit me up. Happy to talk boat any day.
Click to expand...
I appreciate that, still learning the boat and solving a few issues
 
Any body got any thoughts on winterizing the plumbing for the anchor wash down, I got a heater in the ER and oil radiator in the cabin but there is no heat in the anchor rope locker and I can see the likelihood of that plumbing freezing. Since the piping is above the rest of the plumbing I was thinking about just blowing it out with compressed air and then if it isn't turned on the air locked in the upper section of the pipe should keep the water out????
 
Bartlett Bob said:
Any body got any thoughts on winterizing the plumbing for the anchor wash down, I got a heater in the ER and oil radiator in the cabin but there is no heat in the anchor rope locker and I can see the likelihood of that plumbing freezing. Since the piping is above the rest of the plumbing I was thinking about just blowing it out with compressed air and then if it isn't turned on the air locked in the upper section of the pipe should keep the water out????
Click to expand...

I dont know your climate, to say how cold it gets....but here in Long island i would not feel comfortable ONLY with heaters.


I run the non toxic pink ( -50 antifreeze) through the water lines, and make sure to run the washdown till I see pink. Pretty simple operation actually.

Blowing air through the lines is the same procedure, and equally effective.
 
Bartlett Bob said:
Any body got any thoughts on winterizing the plumbing for the anchor wash down, I got a heater in the ER and oil radiator in the cabin but there is no heat in the anchor rope locker and I can see the likelihood of that plumbing freezing. Since the piping is above the rest of the plumbing I was thinking about just blowing it out with compressed air and then if it isn't turned on the air locked in the upper section of the pipe should keep the water out????
Click to expand...

I can tell you that I turn off the freshwater pumps, then bleed the system of pressure at the galley sink. Then have done nothing else.
 
Bartlett Bob said:
Any body got any thoughts on winterizing the plumbing for the anchor wash down, I got a heater in the ER and oil radiator in the cabin but there is no heat in the anchor rope locker and I can see the likelihood of that plumbing freezing. Since the piping is above the rest of the plumbing I was thinking about just blowing it out with compressed air and then if it isn't turned on the air locked in the upper section of the pipe should keep the water out????
Click to expand...
I made the attached fitting to connect my compressor to the town water fitting in the transom locker... here's the procedure I follow:
1. Make sure water heater is OFF
2. Open faucets until fresh water tank is empty
3. Turn both pumps off
3. Set the regulator to about 40psi and connect compressor
4. Start with furthest outlet (for me it's the anchor wash down) and open it until air comes out.
5. Repeat for all faucets (hot and cold) inc deck shower and toilets
6. Drain hot water tank , then remove pipes and connect together, to bypass tank
7. At this point, the system is pretty much winterized, as it's all full of air
8. Even so, I dump antifreeze into the (empty) fresh water tank and run it through the pipes and heads just for good measure and to make sure there's no residual water in the pumps etc... Probably overkill, but better safe than sorry!

I also have the sea flush kit that I use for the A/C system, engines and generator. Works really well:

Good luck!

Cheers,
Simon
 

Attachments

  • Boat Compressor Adaptor.jpg
    Boat Compressor Adaptor.jpg
    47 KB · Views: 139
Bill, anyone? Has anyone repitched their props? I’ve heard at 22 x 24 the engines are working to hard. I have them off and have someone to bring them to and don’t want to make a mistake as I heard you can only do this once. I thought I read to bring them down to 21.5 somewhere. Any thoughts?
 
ggiametta said:
Bill, anyone? Has anyone repitched their props? I’ve heard at 22 x 24 the engines are working to hard. I have them off and have someone to bring them to and don’t want to make a mistake as I heard you can only do this once. I thought I read to bring them down to 21.5 somewhere. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Don’t just tune the props down to any specific number.
24”may be fine for some people and not for others.
Fill your fuel tanks and water tank and have the boat loaded down to how you normally run it. Lots of provisions, no provisions, no dinghy on it, heavy rib on it etc and check the wot rpms. If 2700 or more, your fine.(use laser tach). If less than 2700, write down wot rpm achieved for both engines and take them to a good prop shop and give the numbers and engine and transmission info to them and what rpms you want to reach (2725-2750) they’ll take it from there.
The set I have on my boat right now are 22.4” and I am running really heavy. That set will turn up 2750 in present trim. When I am not traveling and carrying lots of stuff like spares I normally leave home, scuba gear, extra tools that are normally left behind and my rib, the spare prop set that is 23.2” reaches the same 2750.
They can be repitched more than once, but shouldn’t be repitched more than 2” from original.
 
Last edited:
ggiametta said:
Bill, anyone? Has anyone repitched their props? I’ve heard at 22 x 24 the engines are working to hard. I have them off and have someone to bring them to and don’t want to make a mistake as I heard you can only do this once. I thought I read to bring them down to 21.5 somewhere. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
I was at 2625 rpm at WOT (Cummins) with moderate to light load. I asked the prop shop to add 125rpm at WOT. So they calculated to drop the pitch from 24 to 22.7.
 
my3sons said:
Don’t just tune the props down to any specific number.
24”may be fine for some people and not for others.
Fill your fuel tanks and water tank and have the boat loaded down to how you normally run it. Lots of provisions, no provisions, no dinghy on it, heavy rib on it etc and check the wot rpms. If 2700 or more, your fine.(use laser tach). If less than 2700, write down wot rpm achieved for both engines and take them to a good prop shop and give the numbers and engine and transmission info to them and what rpms you want to reach (2725-2750) they’ll take it from there.
The set I have on my boat right now are 22.4” and I am running really heavy. That set will turn up 2750 in present trim. When I am not traveling and carrying lots of stuff like spares I normally leave home, scuba gear, extra tools that are normally left behind and my rib, the spare prop set that is 23.2” reaches the same 2750.
They can be repitched more than once, but shouldn’t be repitched more than 2” from original.
Click to expand...

Very informative, thank you for taking the time.
 
ZZ13 said:
I reinforced mine. It was pretty springy. I added 4 stringers perpendicular to the two existing stringers. Now it's rock solid but weighs a ton. I kinda overengineered a bit and eventually will remove two of the four I added.
Click to expand...

Bill, do you have a picture of this fix?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,112
Messages
1,426,289
Members
61,027
Latest member
NeilS
Back
Top