440 DA do not flush light

Mjresq4

Mjresq4

Member
GOLD Sponsor
Mar 8, 2016
92
Rhode Island
Boat Info
2006 44DA
Engines
Cummins QSC 500
Raymarine E120's
Onan 9kw generator
10' Zodiac with 10hp Tohatsu
I have a 2006 440 DA with Vacu-Flush system, the red do not flush light in the guest head is on and the Vacu-Flush will not operate in the guest head. The owners manual shows that the cause of the light means the holding tank should be emptied. However, I think this is an isolated issue related to just the guest head. To my knowledge, the tank is either empty or almost empty and the level indicator located in the breaker panel shows empty as well and the master head system is working fine. I would think if the holding tank was full both heads would show a do not flush warning. Has anyone had this happen?
 
Each head has its own vacuum generator. It sounds like you have a problem with just the guest head system...pump, duckbill valves, blockage or something.

Every time you flush the head a red light comes on. When that head has gone through it's cycle and it is ready for the next flush then the green light comes on. Does your guest head vacuum pump run? You should be able to hear it, maybe it runs continuously or maybe not at all, either would mean a problem.
 
Woody said:
Each head has its own vacuum generator. It sounds like you have a problem with just the guest head system...pump, duckbill valves, blockage or something.

Every time you flush the head a red light comes on. When that head has gone through it's cycle and it is ready for the next flush then the green light comes on. Does your guest head vacuum pump run? You should be able to hear it, maybe it runs continuously or maybe not at all, either would mean a problem.
Click to expand...

Woody, it runs constantly.
 
The system has to be able to build a vacuum in order to flush. Does the bowl seal hold water? If it can't then it won't seal in order to build a vacuum. You'd likely hear a hissing when the bowl is empty of water.

If the duckbills are shot, inverted, obstructed the same will happen, can't build a vacuum. If the pump bellows are bad the same thing. The systems are pretty simple, they have to be able to build a vacuum or they won't work. The fact the pump runs continuously could mean the switch is bad but because the system doesn't flush it's likely it just can't build enough vacuum and reach the point to shut down.

I'd start with the most common problems....check toilet seal, change the duckbill valves.

The vacuum generator for the guest head is on top the holding tank, pretty easy to get at.
 
Woody said:
The system has to be able to build a vacuum in order to flush. Does the bowl seal hold water? If it can't then it won't seal in order to build a vacuum. You'd likely hear a hissing when the bowl is empty of water.

If the duckbills are shot, inverted, obstructed the same will happen, can't build a vacuum. If the pump bellows are bad the same thing. The systems are pretty simple, they have to be able to build a vacuum or they won't work. The fact the pump runs continuously could mean the switch is bad but because the system doesn't flush it's likely it just can't build enough vacuum and reach the point to shut down.

I'd start with the most common problems....check toilet seal, change the duckbill valves.

The vacuum generator for the guest head is on top the holding tank, pretty easy to get at.
Click to expand...

Thanks Woody, Yes the bowl holds water. I'll check out the duckbill valve.
 
Sounds like your toilet is plugged. Turn off freshwater suppy and turn off breaker for guest head, then hold foot pedal down and use a plunger to try to free it up.
 
villain style said:
Push the flush pedal down to floor and then quickly remove foot from it so it slams back to the top
Click to expand...
I've seen this 'method' recommended a few times through the years. I question whether it's a good one. Letting that pedal slam back up can only be hard on all the components and I wonder what it's fixing.

Residue like TP that occasionally sticks during a flush on the seal area can be rubbed off by just cycling the pedal up/down without letting it snap. If the problem is tougher accumulated crud build up on the seal, that is easily prevented by cleaning that seal every time the bowl is cleaned.

In the case of the OP, his bowl holds water, so it doesn't sound like he has any problem with it sealing.
 
If the tank is empty it is only two things computer board with relay bad or you have three floats in the tank empty, 1/2 full or full .
I think the full float is full of dried up toilet paper and not letting the float drop down so it is reading full and not letting the vacuflush run
The vacuflush will never run with the red light on as this is a safety so the tank does not over flow.
Pull the floats out of tank and see if they are all drop down.
 
I have been fighting this red light issue all summer. Have replaced everything from duck bills to controls. Never thought of safety in the tank. I’m working on this issue this weekend now. Hope it is in the tank. Thanks
 
Spark600 said:
If the tank is empty it is only two things computer board with relay bad or you have three floats in the tank empty, 1/2 full or full .
I think the full float is full of dried up toilet paper and not letting the float drop down so it is reading full and not letting the vacuflush run
The vacuflush will never run with the red light on as this is a safety so the tank does not over flow.
Pull the floats out of tank and see if they are all drop down.
Click to expand...
First I'd say all boats with a vacuflush do not have identical system. The OP has two heads, two individual vacuum generators(one for each head), both empty into one holding tank. His holding tank is empty and the tank indicator shows that it's empty.

But, the 'red light' in the bathroom is on. This comes on after a flush, trigger by low vacuum and the pumps need to run, when the vacuum builds up the green light comes on as an indicator the system is ready for the next flush.

If the holding tank E-F indicator shows empty, and if one of his 2 heads is working properly(including it's own red/green light) I don't see what would point at the holding tank floats as the problem.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, here is the answer. My boat/head is 12 years old and has 860 hours on her so I decided to just replace the duckbills, bellows and o-rings figuring that the head doesn't owe me anything at this point. All of the parts showed some level of wear on them and each probably contributed to the ultimate failure of the system.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,172
Messages
1,427,831
Members
61,084
Latest member
AntonioJamm
Back
Top