Seawater Pump

MedicA

Member
May 7, 2018
35
Boat Info
2005 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer

No Trailer
Engines
Mercruiser 350 w/ Bravo III
Pulled my boat out Monday and was getting it winterized by a local marina here in Michigan. They called me earlier saying that they can not winterize it because the sea water pump is bad and that the cost to replace it would be $700.00.

Last two times I used the boat I did notice that it was going bad, because when I idled the boat for more than 20 minutes the temperature would go up and set the alarm but never while at speed. Probably because water was being rushed thru the inlet at speed.

I think it's either the impeller or the whole pump that is bad. If I was to replace the whole pump, does anyone know where I can get one decently priced?
I have a 2005 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer

I know of other ways to winterize the boat so I am not worried about that, but would like to still fix it so I am good to go in the spring. View attachment 61463
 
An engine can be winterized without running it, so I'm a little concerned about your marina from the get-go. I can see an up-charge, but a refusal is a red-flag to me.

What is $700 buying you? A housing kit, an impeller and labor? The parts aren't very expensive and it's not a very hard job on a B3.
 
An engine can be winterized without running it, so I'm a little concerned about your marina from the get-go. I can see an up-charge, but a refusal is a red-flag to me.

What is $700 buying you? A housing kit, an impeller and labor? The parts aren't very expensive and it's not a very hard job on a B3.


It smelled fishy to me as well and that is why I told them right away HELL NO. I winterized the motor by myself by draining all the water out of it and filling it with antifreeze. Sea water pump issue is most likely only an impeller gone bad which a $30.00 part and 4 screws to take out. I will tackle that in spring. It is a bitch to ge to but it id doable.
 
An engine can be winterized without running it, so I'm a little concerned about your marina from the get-go. I can see an up-charge, but a refusal is a red-flag to me.
And yes, they said $700.00 for parts and labor.
What is $700 buying you? A housing kit, an impeller and labor? The parts aren't very expensive and it's not a very hard job on a B3.
 
It smelled fishy to me as well and that is why I told them right away HELL NO. I winterized the motor by myself by draining all the water out of it and filling it with antifreeze. Sea water pump issue is most likely only an impeller gone bad which a $30.00 part and 4 screws to take out. I will tackle that in spring. It is a bitch to ge to but it id doable.

On your model boat, the access actually isn't all that bad at all. In fact, it's quite good in "boat" terms. However, just take the whole thing off - bracket and all. 3 bolts.
 
Might have already posted this but had mine done right before I bought it and it was about $290 installed by a Merc shop. I agreed to pay 1/2 and my portion was $145 so I can only assume it was $290.
 
wow thats steep...
you can replace with new and like above it is 3 bolts.. for far less...
i say pull whole thing off and inspect.. may just need a rebuild... or just impeller, backplate and seals
 
I wish I could find someone to walk me through basic sea water pump maintenance in person.

I feel like the way people talk about how easy it is I could probably do it myself, but I lack the confidence to just start unbolting stuff. The season is too short to screw something up and then wait for a mechanic to laugh at me and sort it out.
 
Check out youtube. a Picture (or video) is worth a thousand words. You should be able to find something to help you.

Access to the pump can be an issue, Do you have V-drives or outdrives? V-drives can make access the the pump difficult.
 
I wish I could find someone to walk me through basic sea water pump maintenance in person.

I feel like the way people talk about how easy it is I could probably do it myself, but I lack the confidence to just start unbolting stuff. The season is too short to screw something up and then wait for a mechanic to laugh at me and sort it out.

The job is pretty straight forward, but as mentioned above it's often more about the access, than anything else and you may be doing some of this blind. It looks like you have sterndrives, so that helps a bit. I don't know which year/model 310DA you have, but assuming it's something made in that last few decades, twin V8's is a tight fit in that boat. Unbolting the assembly will be pretty simple - slipping the hoses off the back side is probably where you will struggle. Look for those videos and do searches on this forum - don't worry if you find something on a different model - makes no difference - it's all the same.
 
Replacing the impeller is a piece of cake IF THE MOTOR WAS OUT OF THE BOAT haha

Problem is getting to it while it is in the boat but I will figure it out once it warms up here in Michigan :)
 
I would think you should have very access on a 260 as its not a v-drive. I did this on our old 320 out in LI Sound while the engines were hot. Now that was a challenge....i still bear the scars.
 
Replacing the impeller is a piece of cake IF THE MOTOR WAS OUT OF THE BOAT haha

Problem is getting to it while it is in the boat but I will figure it out once it warms up here in Michigan :)
I would think you should have very access on a 260 as its not a v-drive.

Having a single engine (Medic's) makes it much easier, too. Totally different ballgame when you have twins stuffed into a 10' or 11' beam - that port engine (sterndrive) takes a little more contortionisming. Yeah... just made that word up - but it seems to fit! Of course, if there are other things in the way - then of course that adds to fun...

And... having the engine out of the boat is cheating!
 
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