Micro Switch for Transmission Shift

Rocket

Active Member
Jan 14, 2008
620
Long Island NY
Boat Info
2018 Sunseeker 57 Predator
Previous: 2007 48DA, 2004 420DA, 2007 320DA, 2006 240DA
Engines
Volvo D13 900HP Straight Drive
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I have an intermittent shift issue and tracked it down to a faulty microswitch. When you shift the transmission forward the microswitch makes and sends voltage to the solenoid. Very simple but I can seem to source the micro switch. the switch is made by Zippy but there is no retailer. I do see similar actuator assemblies which is on Seastar website. See pix Below.
Anyone else have issues with these?
 
Luckily no issues
Afraid to even reply as it might “jinx” the boat
Good luck with the repair
 
View attachment 61576 View attachment 61577 View attachment 61578 I have an intermittent shift issue and tracked it down to a faulty microswitch. When you shift the transmission forward the microswitch makes and sends voltage to the solenoid. Very simple but I can seem to source the micro switch. the switch is made by Zippy but there is no retailer. I do see similar actuator assemblies which is on Seastar website. See pix Below.
Anyone else have issues with these?

Those type of switches are a very common item. They are on a lot of different kinds of equipment. One terminal is a common , one is a normally open and the other one is a normally closed. Should be marked on the side of the switch if not verify with a ohm meter after the wires are disconnected. The size of the switch varies so measure yours and the contact point at the end of the lever varies depending on application. The amp rating of the contacts are all close at least the one I saw and/or used. Measure the screw hole center to center as that varies with the size of the switch.
 
I have had an intermittent problem where my Starboard transmission will be running fine, up on plane, then seem to drop to neutral for about 1 second, then re-engage, but runs rock solid 99,9% of the time. The symptom is the starboard RPM increases, and the boat starts to turn starboard. I suspected air in the transmission, or electrical. I called ZF Technical support, and they thought it electrical, not on the hydraulic side.

They suggested replacing these switches, and swapping the transmission solenoids side for side. I'm going to do this as I change out the ATF fluid. I'll be in the market for some of those.

I think these are the manuals for about 2000 on, no parts list or part numbers. I'm going to call this morning.
 

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Spoke to Jim in Sea Star;'s Mechanical Controls Div (610) 495-7011 Opton #2. According to him this assembly/switch is is only used in Sea Ray Boats.

These things have a mechanical and electrical life. On a DC application, they arc just a tiny bit every time they make or break creating a layer of oxide on the contacts. Add a little salt air and the life is further reduced. Eventually, they dont conduct as well restricting the current required to be switched. That may explain the intermittent operation.

The entire assembly that contains the frame and 2 switches is part # CA69027P. This is in the manual posted above.

The individual switch is part # is CA27100P. It is listed on their website and a neutral safety switch for the CH2300P controls. Manual below.

Now to find some of the damn things.
 

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  • CH2300P-Neutral-Safety-Switch-CA27100P-Rev.1-IS-CA27100.pdf
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I think these are the switches. I purchased 4, less than $30 delivered.

If I were specing these, I think they would be a good choice...IP67. However, 10,000 actuations mechanical service life. I could see these getting tired in a 18+ year old boat.

Microswitch.PNG
 
Yes spoke with Jim at SEASTAR and very good Customer service. Shipped Next day, parts installed and all is good. David has the correct part number above. I bought the entire assembly.
 
Swing and a miss. The switches from Newark Electronics are NOT the correct model. They are incorrect in the direction wire leads come out, and they are mislabled as roller lever, but in reality they are plain hinge lever. Tech support apologized for the mis-labling, but they do not have the correct switched.

I found Zippy in Taiwan, found these switches and specified the correct switch. I got a response from the company. They wanted a picture to verify specifics (which I supplied), and I hope to find a source.

zippy 1.PNG
Zippy 2.PNG
 
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Update.

I disassembled my shift levers and found a lot of crusty salt build up. However, mine are slightly different in 2 ways.

1. The Fwd/Rev switches are made by Cherry (now ZF) and are 10 A switches with 16 AWG leads. Zippy has a version with a 10A switch with 20 AWG leads (see part# below) and I requested a quote on the ZF version, but I just might have to admit defeat on this item and buy the assembly!! For the record, these are the part #'s for the 10A switch version from each company and would have the same mount holes and dimesions.

Zippy part # SW2-H10S1-0500-EA001-Z -SS actuator similar as above but 10A rated switch.

ZF Part # DC2C-E5AA - No acuator, you will have to swap existing or order separate roller lever.

2. Mine has a Neutral Cut Out Switch. In my shifters, the contacts had a good build up of corrosion on the spade connectors and these switched are not IP67 (sealed) and I suspect these might be the source of my intermittent issues. These are manufactured by Honeywell and are about $4.50 each delivered and readily available. I purchased mine from Onlinecomponents.com. https://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell/v71c27e9-11943512.html

Salt Deposits
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DC2C 10A Switch

20181105_141631.jpg


V7-1C27E9 Nuetral Safety Switch

20181105_133736.jpg
V7.PNG
 

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Found sources for the exact (FWD/REV) switches, although you will have to purchase the switch and actuator separately. Here are the parts you will need. I would have preferred a stainless steel roller lever, but I couldn't find one in stock. You could reuse the lever if in good shape to save $8.

Fwd/Rev Switch - ZF DC2C-E5AA - $6.88 each Qty 4 required. Shipping $9.90. Total = $37.42

DC2C-E5AA.PNG


https://www.electronicsurplus.com/cherry-corp-dc2c-e5aa-switch-micro-p-b-spdt-10amp-125v

Plastic Roller Lever - $1.04 each Qty 4 required Shipping $3.90. Total = $8.06

Roller Lever.PNG


https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=CH673-ND

Neutral Safety Switch - V7-1C27E9 - $2.66 each Qty 2 required Shipping $7.99. Total $18.63

V7 New.PNG


https://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell/v71c27e9-11943512.html

All in $64.11. Thats about a $100 savings and pays for a 25 gallons of diesel!
 
Found sources for the exact (FWD/REV) switches, although you will have to purchase the switch and actuator separately. Here are the parts you will need. I would have preferred a stainless steel roller lever, but I couldn't find one in stock. You could reuse the lever if in good shape to save $8.

Fwd/Rev Switch - ZF DC2C-E5AA - $6.88 each Qty 4 required. Shipping $9.90. Total = $37.42

View attachment 61921

https://www.electronicsurplus.com/cherry-corp-dc2c-e5aa-switch-micro-p-b-spdt-10amp-125v

Plastic Roller Lever - $1.04 each Qty 4 required Shipping $3.90. Total = $8.06

View attachment 61922

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=CH673-ND

Neutral Safety Switch - V7-1C27E9 - $2.66 each Qty 2 required Shipping $7.99. Total $18.63

View attachment 61923

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/honeywell/v71c27e9-11943512.html

All in $64.11. Thats about a $100 savings and pays for a 25 gallons of diesel!
I’m curious if you have resolved your issue with the mentioned parts? I have a similar looking micro switch but it does look different and trying to figure out if the switches are the same but cosmetically different. Mine say Zippy on them.
 

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Yes. This was a pretty easy issue to address. You have to remove the cover and get the shift mechanism up and out. Then its just a matter of cutting and splicing the new switches in to the wire harness, swap out to the roller actuator and bolt the switch back in place.
 
THANK YOU for posting this info. Bringing home my new to me 410 Sundancer last week the trans locked in reverse. I disconnected the solenoid and ran her 200 miles home. YOu saved me hours of troubleshooting and random parts swapping lol. I did confirm last night a bad switch.
 

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