Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

I am preparing to pull my aftercoolers and heat exchangers on my 2004 420 with the 6CTA's. I have V-drives. It's been a bit over 2 years since the raw water train has been cleaned.

My wrench helper and I were at the boat this weekend and were "pre-gaming" the job. The question we have is this: Is it recommended to remove the Port side exhaust tube to facilitate removal of the Port side heat exchanger?

Our thoughts are to remove the exchangers and have them cleaned, in lieu of cleaning them with circulating solution.

Any recommendations or suggestions are appreciated.

Jaybeaux
I did mine last year, we left the exhaust tube on. I have a bad knee and can't fold up/squat down to actually get in alongside the port engine. I hired a young, skinny, flexible mechanic and he was able to do it easily, if it had to be me the tube would come out. I toy with taking that support angle for the hatch out sometimes, then I'd be able to work on that side but I worry about whether or not the holes will line up and go back together as easy as it comes apart.

One thing he did that made it a bit easier/more comfortable....he had sort of a thin, dense, foam board maybe 18"X36" that he put on top the batteries for a decent spot to sit.

Not specific to this job is a hose removal tool. They're much easier than all the prying with screwdrivers and twisting on the hoses, plus little chance of nicking up the necks the hoses push on to or damaging the hoses themselves. There are different shapes and sizes and often can be found in a 'set'. This is the style I've found most useful through the years. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lisle-Short-Double-Offset-Hose-Remover-LIS80290/207002918?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|HC|D25T|25-31_GARAGE/AUTOMOTIVE|NA|NA|RLSA|71700000037147753|58700004141485307|92700034088528780&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj-fG6O_l3QIVQrbACh1QQwUmEAQYASABEgIXn_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJySvIbw5d0CFU6_wAodyMQAhg
 
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Bill is correct, but personally, I would buy the SMX pumps from sbmar.com 200 bucks more for a better design but you will have to use his impellers. Also just note the SMX does come with a new impeller and not all of the Sherwood models include one.

Josh
 
Woody, Thanks for the advice. I plan on bringing several of those quilted moving blankets to lay on. With regard to removing the support angle......if you're referring to the support on the port side between the engine hatch and the long thin hatch piece.....when I bought my boat, the previous owner had removed the nuts from the bolts, but left the bolts. I just pull up the metal bracket and put it out of the way. Makes things quite a bit easier to get to.

Jaybeaux
 
Bill is correct, but personally, I would buy the SMX pumps from sbmar.com 200 bucks more for a better design but you will have to use his impellers. Also just note the SMX does come with a new impeller and not all of the Sherwood models include one.

Josh
As you know Josh, it comes with two impellers. One inside the unit and one spare. So there is your $200 back right there. And after 4 years and 600 hours I am still on the original impeller that came inside it. Haven't replaced it yet.
 
As you know Josh, it comes with two impellers. One inside the unit and one spare. So there is your $200 back right there. And after 4 years and 600 hours I am still on the original impeller that came inside it. Haven't replaced it yet.
That is good to know. I'm on 2 years, and may go another year.
 
As you know Josh, it comes with two impellers. One inside the unit and one spare. So there is your $200 back right there. And after 4 years and 600 hours I am still on the original impeller that came inside it. Haven't replaced it yet.
I have had the SMX pumps since 2010 on my 6CTA's (we have half seasons in the Great Lakes) but changing the impellers is so much easier because they are splined. No key to drop and have to disassemble hoses to find them. I replace the SMX impellers after every three seasons but really don't need to because we could go longer. The original Sherwoods chewed up their impellers and were missing a blade or two each season. What a pain and I'm glad I switched to Tony's pumps. The other benefit is that they flow more water than the original Sherwoods.
The new design impeller also comes with a neat removal tool that locks into the end of the impeller.
Let's face it, cooling is the one issue with the 6CTA and this solves it. Otherwise they are robust motors.
 
Yes, another T-stat changing question.....

Getting ready to do all of this work next weekend. I was reviewing the posts on T-stat changes, and I had a thought. Can you "fish out" the old T-stats after removing the outlet connection, but without removing the T-stat housing?
6CTA8.6Thermo2.jpg


Also, does it look as if Rectorseal is used underneath the gasket? Is that recommended?

Jaybeaux
 
A long day, but a lot accomplished. For starters, Woody, your recommendation on the tool to use to break the mechanical seal on the hoses was invaluable. We couldn't have done it without it! Thanks for tip.

Started at 7:30 AM. Started with easy STB Heat Exchanger. Had it off by 8:15. By 10:00 AM we had the STB T-stats changed. We dropped the alternator for this side. By 1:15 PM, we had the PORT Heat Exchanger off, both After-coolers off, and changed the PORT T-stats. On the Port engine, we removed the belt tensioner and that was way easier than dropping the alternator.

After a break for lunch, we were back at it, this time pulling the gear oil coolers and replacing with new ones. Started about 2:30 (after lunch) and finished about 4:00. We even changed the compression washers on the banjo fitting on Port Turbo.

2 hours of bilge scrubbing and cleanup and we were on the road at 6:00 PM.

Sorry, but I really didn't take pictures along the way. Too busy. Tomorrow, hopefully we are pulling the After-cooler cores and cleaning them up, regreasing everything and putting them back together. The heat exchangers go to the radiator shop on Monday.

If you have any questions, I'll do my best to relay my experience. Thanks to all who gave me tips to take on this job.

Jaybeaux
 
When reinstalling Heat Exchangers and After-coolers, is it recommended to use any kind of lubricant or adhesive like stuff to facilitate sliding the hoses on? Can I spray the inside of the hose ends with silicone? Just curious what others have done.

Thanks,

Jaybeaux
 
I didn’t need anything to pour them on. Maybe a little spit but the slide on fine and I hose clamped them.
 
I think you will find that all except one of the hoses go on easily, I use no adhesives and always need the assistance of my hose removal tool the next time I pull them.
I do use a little dish detergent on the hose that connects the coolant pipe to the bottom of the heat exchanger. Lube it up, slide it all the way over the pipe, connect the other hoses and then slide that hose back over the h/x outlet. Because on my boat the starboard side is done almost blind, that sequence seems to work the best.
 
ZZ13....We dropped the alternator on the starboard side, which was the side where we first changed the thermostats. The port side we removed the belt tensioner. It was a call that my bilge buddy made. He has more mechanical acumen than I, so it was his call. It seemed like a good idea until it came time to replace a small (approx 10 mm bolt) on the front of some bracket. We (he) fought that for a while. We changed methodology when we moved over to the Port side.

Jaybeaux
 
Not sure I would use silicon......may also 'facilitate' the hose sliding off if your clamps 'relaxed' over time.

I've always used just water (dip hose in a bucket) or a strong soapy solution of dishwashing liquid and water if required.

I second the Merc Perfect Seal if called for.
 
Jaybeaux, I had similar fun this weekend. Took me 6 hours by myself to pull it all apart.
 

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Couple questions for you guys.
1. I need a couple of those small silicone hose sections. The ones that connect turbo to pipe. Anyone have that part number or know where to buy them?
2. I broke a couple of those small thread adapter connectors from coolant reservoir to the small 1/2” pressure hoses. Any idea where to find them?

Thanks.
-Rob
 
Couple questions for you guys.
1. I need a couple of those small silicone hose sections. The ones that connect turbo to pipe. Anyone have that part number or know where to buy them?
2. I broke a couple of those small thread adapter connectors from coolant reservoir to the small 1/2” pressure hoses. Any idea where to find them?

Thanks.
-Rob
Sbmar.com has all the connector hoses and the coolant lines you need.
 
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