my luck... repower

Happy Dayz

Active Member
Jun 26, 2017
543
Sarasota, FL
Boat Info
'06 260 Sundancer, 6.2, BIII, Kohler 5kw
79' classic Kona Family Cruiser jet boat..
Engines
6.2 w/ BIII, 502 w/ Berkekley
well not lucky... seems i should have saved for a repower vs replacing my heads on my 6.2 383. Was running great. but Saturday i got up on plane and began hearing some heavy knocking!! dropped back to 1500 and seemed fine. ran it up again, same thing. UUGGG

going to compression test this week and go from there.. sounds like bottom end..

worst case scenario, i repower.. now I can do the job but have no hoist for engine lift. and if so i go with closed cooling!

questions:

-when you repower do they "keep" your old motor as part of the price?
-could i save money by stripping down the engine to the block to minimize labor?
-suspect warranty can be an issue, but could have then drop in the engine and I complete?

so anyone ever have a reapir shop work with them... or just bend over?

thanks all...
 
I know nothing about replacing an engine, but sounds like you could do it yourself, but just need a lift? Can those be rented?
 
I think a lot of that would be dependent on if the "knock" caused and damage or if there was any other damage pre-existing before doing your heads that you were not aware of. I would think a reputable engine rebuilder would be able to give you the best advise.

Short of that you can order a rebuilt/remanfactured block - bare or dressed. If you get it bare you will save some money but have to move everything over from the old engine. A fully dressed engine should drop in ready - just confirm the level of the dressing.

-Kevin
 
So you have new heads on this engine ? So strip everything off your engine, buy a short block, and bolt everything back on. You could probably build a gantry out of lumber for short money and do this in your driveway
 
That sucks! Sorry to hear.

There are a few DIY boat yards in St. Pete that will haul and block your boat. They help with the heavy lifting if you want to go with a short block, and you can swap over the parts yourself. Not sure what they charge, but you avoid locating an engine hoist if you go this route.

Good luck.
 
they typically charge a core deposit if rebuilt , You will run into many issues with a warranty if you have a problem and the engine is returned if the engine supplier requires a certified installer to do the work. You may have to do some of the forensic investigation if you have a failure and prove it was not an installation error; answer many questions about overall timing , base timing ,oil condition , water ingress and possible borescope work. Undressing /dressing an engine yourself will save labor time as well as there are a lot of hours in this work that if you can do yourself won't cost you, If you have the skills for this then do as much as you can and if the work is correct you won't have an issue with an engine .Marine shops are funny about customer shop cooperation when it comes to this mainly for liability . You can check around and ask if a shop is willing to pull an undressed engine and drop a replacement undressed engine in your boat . You can do the rest and save a ton. Do yourself a favor while its out, if you have a lot of hours on the machinery replace the coupler .
 
thanks for the input guys!

one of my mental debates is all the "dressing" parts... should I just take a full hit and get a complete drop in with all new parts and go from raw cool to closed cool !?!?

i figure i could part out my old engine...
 
Been down the road you’re going repowered both my motors a year ago entertained the idea of Jasper or Michigan motors heard pros and cons for each wound up going with a local engine rebuilder second generation been doing it for 40 years highly recommended rebuilt my both motors but I bought four new heads due to the rot in the ports had both motors Dyno tested with sheets and broke it in before I even got them back to the boat I’m about 80 hours in, Boat never ran so good if you get them rebuild proper I don’t think you have to worry about warranty even though he warranty mine for a year he said if anything was going to go bad it was Going to in the very beginning I like the idea of being able to see my motors run before I put them back in the boat at his machine shop I was not too comfortable with an assembly line product that was never tested from the big store re-manufacturers
 

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I repowered my 2001 blue water inboards on my 310 with new fully dressed 2007 Horizons , I would recommend closed loop cooling , It's a fabulous upgrade and depending on where you operate it becomes more significant .
 
well I only tested 3&5 cylinders that were bad from before I replaced heads...
#3 - 110 psi, #5 - 120 psi.. No Good... I stopped there and cried...lol
 
thanks for the input guys!

one of my mental debates is all the "dressing" parts... should I just take a full hit and get a complete drop in with all new parts and go from raw cool to closed cool !?!?

i figure i could part out my old engine...


You would pay for closed cooling one way or the other. If you buy a kit....$1,200. If you buy as part of an engine package.....$1,500-2,000.

It comes back to your time and what it is worth. I would probably work up a spreadsheet that shows both options and figure out the difference. At a minimum you need a new 502 long block ($7k at perfprotech.com) since the current block is unusable. You might find someone willing to sell you a short block but it isn't a huge difference and you can resell your heads. A fully dressed replacement with closed cooling is probably twice that.

Probably a day's worth of work to move the parts over and throw closed cooling on it.

If it was me.....I would order the long block and bolt the parts on. It is a weekend job and I would pay a yard to pull it and put it back in.....but you have to be comfortable with the work.

Some have had good success with rebuilts. Joeyleggz approach of finding an experienced shop with a dyno makes a lot of sense if you decide on that direction. Just keep in mind your block cannot be reused.

This is one of the few times you can appreciate the cost of gas engines versus diesels!;)
 
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You may want to check into the warranties if they are of any importance to you. Short normally do not offer the same as a long block.
 
You would pay for closed cooling one way or the other. If you buy a kit....$1,200. If you buy as part of an engine package.....$1,500-2,000.

It comes back to your time and what it is worth. I would probably work up a spreadsheet that shows both options and figure out the difference. At a minimum you need a new 502 long block ($7k at perfprotech.com) since the current block is unusable. You might find someone willing to sell you a short block but it isn't a huge difference and you can resell your heads. A fully dressed replacement with closed cooling is probably twice that.

Probably a day's worth of work to move the parts over and throw closed cooling on it.

If it was me.....I would order the long block and bolt the parts on. It is a weekend job and I would pay a yard to pull it and put it back in.....but you have to be comfortable with the work.

Some have had good success with rebuilts. Joeyleggz approach of finding an experienced shop with a dyno makes a lot of sense if you decide on that direction. Just keep in mind your block cannot be reused.

This is one of the few times you can appreciate the cost of gas engines versus diesels!;)
Unless I missed something, he's working on a 6.2 not a 8.2, considerable diff in price. Why would he need a new block ? He hasn't even looked at it yet. Rotating assembly I can see.

Does he want to get out of this as cheaply as possible ? Following his other posts, this guy knows how to use tools
 
What scoflaw said. I would yank it out and either take to an engine shop and let them tear it down or tear it down myself. Most rebuild shops want to do the tear down themselves. I would not be looking at remand engine at this point until I knew the condition of the motor.
 
thanks again team CSR

speaking with the Admiral, think we decided on a full dressed reman
we figure other 13 yr old parts/fittings/etc are old as well...and we love the boat and want reliability for as hard as we work to have this boat. plus we will use it every weekend we can more so. current plan to trade/sell in 4-5yrs for a live aboard.

been calling around..
so far least reman 383 with fresh water cooling 11k and installation 1k
then plan to sell all parts i can off old engine..

thoughts? concerns?
 
just to be sure you know this, a 6.2L is actually 377 cid not 383.....there may be differences in a 377 stroker and 383 stroker marine engine as you are shopping around........

good luck....

cliff
 

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