replacement cost of Bravo III lower unit?

searaypuget

Member
May 21, 2017
84
Seattle
Boat Info
2008 Sundancer 280
Engines
496 Mercruiser w/Bravo III Drive
I just got a quote to replace my bravo III lower unit + repainting the rest of the outdrive, and wanted to see if it is within a reasonable range. The props are fine.
Including tax and all the fees , the estimate is $10K. The lower unit is $4,800 but things add up so quickly. I am in Seattle.
 
Do you have an itemized list for the $5,200?

Seems like a lot of money to install the lower unit, paint the remainder and swap the props over.
 
Roughly as follows:
  • haul out, wash = $480
  • Remove, reinstall prop $250
  • Remove and reinstall outdrive $429
  • Replace outdrive lower $5354 ($4800 part, $562 labor) <-- not sure why there is a labor item when there is a separate item above. I will ask.
  • Bottom paint sterndrive $1200
  • Freight $330
  • Paint supplies, waste, sand prep etc. $200
  • a few minor items
  • Tax
 
Sounds right and fair to me. Years ago, and a very long interesting story, but the short of it here, I had two new Volvo Penta DUO prop ocean x drives with transomeplates installed due to old style plastic drive issues. $30,000 retail price job for both. Labor, parts and paint. This was with my long time trusted mechanic.
 
Sounds right and fair to me. Years ago, and a very long interesting story, but the short of it here, I had two new Volvo Penta DUO prop ocean x drives with transomeplates installed due to old style plastic drive issues. $30,000 retail price job for both. Labor, parts and paint. This was with my long time trusted mechanic.
Thank you. What is the retail price ? I see on the quote also states "retail". I mean is there a different price or just a normal protocol?
 
Have you used this mechanic in the past?

The labor charge for swapping the props ($250) and installing the lower unit ($562) is being charged at about $500/hour.

I understand that he's got to make a living, but that is a bit absurd.

Once the boat is hauled, it should take 3-4 hours to remove the drive, swap the props AND lower unit and reinstall.

Did you get a second estimate?

Check out Nuwave Marine for prices:
https://nuwavemarine.com/new-oem-mercruiser-bravo-3-lower-unit-8m0086825-1656-8866g09/
 
+ 1 on the prop and drive removal labor. Neither of those items should take more than 30min for an experienced mechanic. Did you get a price on a complete new drive? At $10k you are getting close and would save most of the labor of swapping out the lower and painting.
 
The only thing on that estimate that looks fair to me is the haul out and the retail price of the lower unit. The rest seams very inflated based on what I'm used to paying here in Michigan.
A quick internet search will give you an idea on what a standard Bravo 3 would cost new or refurbished. Seams like 7-9K will get you a brand new out-drive. Realizing that the marina has to make a profit maybe add 1-2k to the price of the drive. At those prices I would replace the entire out-drive as I would hate to have to incur most of the same expenses when the upper inevitably fails.
 
What are they painting for $1200?

The new lower should come painted and there's not to much left to paint if they reuse the upper portion.

Might want to put that $1200 into just having the entire outdrive replaced.

BTW what happened to the lower portion?

Doing a quick search the entire drive will run around $7000
 
in 1998 I had a lower unit part of stern drive fail. It got water in it and gears were all destroyed. The mechanic found a used one rebuilt it and installed it for 2,500. I have watched mechanics service stern drives and it looked like a full day to remove both service the drive from the engine to the units and put them back on. If you need new boots the time goes up. Mechanic rate in Anacortes is 130 an hour I think.
 
Seems WAY TOO HIGH for me. At $500 an hour?!?! WTH? I'm doing a re-seal next week and expect it to run around $750.
 
As an option, you can do some or most of the prep work, if not the entire job, especially if you buy a new complete outdrive.

Should be just basic tools to do the job. You can order and paint the outdrive at your leisure. Make sure you have the right parts (seals, gaskets). Pull the boat and swap out the drives. Might be able to do it in the sling and save a 2 way move.

If time is an issue, then its probably in the ball park.
 
Thank you all for feedback. The lower unit has developed advanced corrosion due to electrolysis. I was hoping the unit could be sand blasted and repainted but was told it should be replaced. This type of corrosion on Bravo 3 is pretty common from what I heard. Thanks.
 
It is common but once you get it replaced be sure to keep your anodes fresh (and be sure you are using the right types of anodes) and if you have a mercathode make sure it is working properly. Also, if you start to see corrosion in the future be sure to get it sanded and repainted ASAP.

As far as price, I was looking at a 1999 270DA this summer with quite a bit of erosion on the BIII. Talked to a local shop and they gave me a ballpark figure of $4000-5000 just for the lower unit (unit only, no labor)
 
Since you all encouraged me to contact other shops, I did. One shop also recommended that I just replace it with the new housings (upper/lower) and use the current internals given I have only 300 hours. That would be around $5K+tax. I am going to visit the shop where my boat is to understand why the estimate is so high. He would rather explain it in person rather than via a phone or email. I will keep you all posted. Thank you.
 
Thank you. What is the retail price ? I see on the quote also states "retail". I mean is there a different price or just a normal protocol?
Retail is the normal price before any sales, discounts or negotiations.
 
Since you all encouraged me to contact other shops, I did. One shop also recommended that I just replace it with the new housings (upper/lower) and use the current internals given I have only 300 hours. That would be around $5K+tax. I am going to visit the shop where my boat is to understand why the estimate is so high. He would rather explain it in person rather than via a phone or email. I will keep you all posted. Thank you.

I'm going to be in the same boat as you here when my boat gets pulled but I have older drives which are less costly.

Please have them do the math for buying complete drive vs just changing out the housings. I wonder how many hours they will rack to remove and replace gears, seals and everything else compared to just purchasing a complete unit.

I don't have any experience in this department and it might be simple to do......If someone on here replaced their own housing it would be nice to hear of their experience.

Just a thought: If your old drive is still mechanically sound you might be able to sell it as is or take a wire brush to it.... clean it up and give it a coat of paint...... then sell it.
 
Wow looks like you're paying $1200.00 for some labor that I would perform in my shop in 45 minutes and bill 2 hours .Are they quoting a drive enamel job or just slopping on bottom paint ?I've performed dozens of these and I can tell you that prop removal and R&R of a BIII lower should not be billed at such a high rate . Also , the components of a BIII and their respective anti corrosion components work as a system . If a recoat is not performed well then the shiny new lower is not protected .I would get some details on what the paint job entails as well as how the shop deals with balance of the drives anti corrosion continuity system ;the anodes, continuity connections ,mercathode etc. This is a case where the system is only as strong as its weakest link. I have found that a recoat although better than doing nothing , is nothing more than a short lived fix . You will find the work has to be repeated more often than you think . It sounds like you lost lower drive integrity from corrosion most likely at the area around the carrier . It happens here because the pressure is so low in front of a BIII propset . The best way forward is to do more frequent inspection and service .If you notice any corrosive loss , deal with it then ,don't let anyone tell you that it's ok to be missing some paint there for instance . Once the loss starts ( as soon as you are in the sea ) it will only worsen at a rapid pace if ignored .
 
I've called a few places and it looks like the quote is definitely higher than the average. I will most likely pick up the boat and take it to a different place. I am sure I will still have to pay $1K to pick up the boat ($600 for haul out and wash + $250 prop removal for inspection + tax ) but it is what it is. I will go see them tomorrow to better understand their current estimate.
 

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