How often should I change fluids in V drive?

speakrdude

Well-Known Member
Feb 21, 2009
1,214
Northwest Arkansas
Boat Info
2002 Sea Ray 340 DA
Raymarine C80 Tri Data
Engines
twin 6.2 MX MPI
The boat is an 02, 340, 6.2's, V-drives (obviously). The strbd engine was replaced shortly before I purchased. The port, however is original. I noticed yesterday as I boated over to the marina for a pump out, the port, when put in forward or forward, has a little growl to it. The stbd tranny doesn't seem to have it. I've had the boat two years now. How often should the fluid be changed?
Thanks
Jim
 
My ZF manual says "X" hours or annually. The manual is on the boat and I forget the exact time interval........but I"m pretty sure 15 years is w--a--y too long.
 
We have transmissions and it says every 250 hours. Fluid comes out as clean as it was when it went in.
 
Bear in mind the transmission oil does't see the heat from combustion like the engine, so the oil doesn't break down as fast meaning you don't need to change the trans oil at the same frequency as engines. I'd agree with northern with the 250 hours.
 
I just checked my mercruiser service manual for my 8.1's (service manual 30) and the maintenance schedule shows annually or 100 hours for the transmissions as previously mentioned above.
 
So how do you remove the fluid? Obviously, there is not a great deal of room down there for 6'1" 220 lb old dude like me.
I saw a video somewhere saying the suck out method doesn't work very well.
 
I'm bigger than you so had to buy a 38 to fit in the bilge....and even then I still donate sacrificial blood to the "bilge gods" every time maintenance is required :p.

I'm not sure what drives you have, but in the ZF63V's I remove the screen mesh filter (which needs removal and cleaning anyway) and insert a tube into the base of the filter housing and suck it out.

Might pay to see if you can locate a manual for your particular drives on the net.
 
I do it every season. We have the same transmissions.
- Suck oil out through dipstick.
- While oil is being evacuated, remove the cover to the filter, remove filter and place in a container of mineral sprits....give it a minute or two of agitation and then let it air dry for a bit.
(The cover to the filter is removed by a half turn or so of the allen head bolt on the top. It is a finicky setup in my opinion, make sure you get it back on correctly when done)
- There is another hole in the filter well that will yield a bit more old fluid even after the dip stick route has finished.......so stick your vac tube down it before declaring all old fluid is out.
- Replace filter and properly reseat/ tighten cover (don't over tighten but make sure it is on securely), refill with about 4.5 qts of fluid.

Inspect filter and filter well area for metal particulate, a magnet works nicely......hopefully you do not find any metal shavings/pieces.

Once all is buttoned back up, operate your shift levers in and out of forward and reverse.....observe for leaks and recheck fluid level.
 
Thinking about doing mine this year too... A little worried about getting the filters out... And what type of Fluid do you put back in??? Mine is red, Looks like Tranny fluid...dexron maybe...
 
I had the oil changed in my V-Drive transmissions this year. I had the marina do it because I couldn't find the 36 mm "nut" that hides the screen filter. After the work was done, I asked the Tech how the screen looked. He said I didn't have one. So I'm left with one of two situations: I paid $300 to have two gallons of 30W oil sucked out of two transmissions, which I obviously could've done myself; or I got short changed on work and told a half-truth.

I have ZF 280 IV. See picture. I have heard that if I stand between my engines, facing forward, that this plug on the transmission is toward the engine, lower left. This is a very awkward location and it is hard to see/reach.

Any insight and guidance is much appreciated.

Jaybeaux
20180324_143912.jpg
 
I'm bigger than you so had to buy a 38 to fit in the bilge....and even then I still donate sacrificial blood to the "bilge gods" every time maintenance is required :p.

I'm not sure what drives you have, but in the ZF63V's I remove the screen mesh filter (which needs removal and cleaning anyway) and insert a tube into the base of the filter housing and suck it out.

Might pay to see if you can locate a manual for your particular drives on the net.

Anyone locate a manual for the ZF63V transmissions? I’d love to see (in print) the recommended interval for changing transmission fluid.
 
Jay

I have 280’s as well. Change mine every year simply because I’m already changing oil and it cost 35 bucks. You need the socket or a wrench and I purchased both of mine in eBay to get to the filter screen. You will also want new copper crush washers that I could only find directly from ZF and I paid 32 bucks from Germany. You will remove the nuts and clean the filters. I used brake cleaner. The bits have a magnetic back so you can see if you have any shavings.

Then you simply fill from the top with 1.5 gallons of 30w oil. Going forward I’m going to find some less expensive crush washers but there really isn’t a need to clean the filters every single time, you will hardly have anything in there is my guess.
 
Here is an image of the manual page. Posted elsewhere, but just in case anyone else finds this thread it will all be here.
37C81DC0-9F93-4EE4-AD75-F402486F58B8.jpeg
 
Thanks. This helps. I have 63V transmissions, not 63IV. Not sure what the IV means or if it has any effect on the interval? I suppose annually is a good idea, regardless.
 
I had the oil changed in my V-Drive transmissions this year. I had the marina do it because I couldn't find the 36 mm "nut" that hides the screen filter. After the work was done, I asked the Tech how the screen looked. He said I didn't have one. So I'm left with one of two situations: I paid $300 to have two gallons of 30W oil sucked out of two transmissions, which I obviously could've done myself; or I got short changed on work and told a half-truth.

I have ZF 280 IV. See picture. I have heard that if I stand between my engines, facing forward, that this plug on the transmission is toward the engine, lower left. This is a very awkward location and it is hard to see/reach.

Any insight and guidance is much appreciated.

JaybeauxView attachment 54381


I've got the same ones. Says right on the plate... "1,000hrs or 12mos".

I'm struggling to get to 100hrs in a season, let alone 1,000. My mechanic said not to worry about it every year as it's not worth it. I put mine on a 4yr schedule.
 
Here is an image of the manual page. Posted elsewhere, but just in case anyone else finds this thread it will all be here.
View attachment 60759
"Anti counterclockwise"... what the heck does that mean? Clockwise? Who writes these manuals? Furuno manuals are worse.
 
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