420 DA Thread

Here is a great contact for Taylor Made Systems (replacement parts for legacy Sea Ray hatches and more). This lady was kind and jumped on the chance to help, took my order over the phone, and 2-"dayed" the parts.
Theresa Havlick, Taylor Made Customer Service
thavlick@taylormadesystems.com
 
Trying to extend anchor time without running generator. My existing batteries are admittedly bad, but anchored out on Labor Day, only got about 12 hours before they crapped out entirely. (Learned that our CO detectors will wake you up when batteries die). Was only running refrigeration and anchor light and basic stuff like water and heads. Minimal lights. I’d like to be able to spend 48 hours. Thinking that 4D has almost double Reserve Capacity of group 31.

Your batteries must be beyond toast you should easily get more than 12 hours. Being careful about how often and how long you open fridges and LED lights will do as much as adding capacity. If you want more than 24 hours you will need a charging source even with 4D's (solar/wind/generator).

For me even if we didn't run generator for 48 hours we still would for at least parts of the day to cook, heat water for a shower etc.

I also find the air flow so poor in these boats that AC even on "cooler" nights is almost mandatory.
 
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OVERHEAD COCKPIT LED LIGHT REPLACEMENT

Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.22.48 AM.png So I walked into West Marine yesterday and noticed they are selling "LED Recessed Mount Flood Light" for $24.99 (less 15% discount as part of an interior lighting sale). They come with a black, chrome and white cover that you can swap out. This West Marine also had both blue and white colored lights. I bought blue.

Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.30.00 AM.png Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.30.20 AM.png Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.31.10 AM.png I was originally going to convert the existing Attwood lights to LED, so I had previously purchased blue 1142 LED's from superbrightleds.com for $6.95 each. However the oval shaped contacts on the LED bulbs had trouble making contact with the worn down round and partially recessed Attwood contacts. I was actually on my way to West Marine to see if there was something else I could buy to get the existing Attwood's working with the 1142 LEDs when I spotted the new fixtures for sale.

Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.39.18 AM.png - If you decide to go with these West Marine fixtures, you will also want to purchase Nylon disconnects at West Marine to join into the existing Sea Ray wiring. The wires coming off the new fixtures is 20AWG (which unfortunately West Marine doesn't put on the packaging - the store associate and I had to use a magnifying glass to see the gauge). However West Marine was out of 18-22AWG nylon disconnects. So I decided to buy the next highest, and fold over the wire before crimping.

Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.43.24 AM.png - Also since they didn't have the shielded Nylon disconnects, I ended up wrapping electrical tape around the connection points after joining (this pic is pre wrapping electrical tape - when I turned on the light for a sec to make sure the connection was successful). NOTE: These fixtures are polarity sensitive - red wire needs to go to positive (which is blue wire on the Sea Ray) and black needs to go to negative.

Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.46.20 AM.png - The new fixtures are held in with x3 #4 3/4" Phillips screws. These won't match your old screw holes - so you will need to drill new holes. I first drilled with a 3/32" bit, but the hole was so tight, that I ended up stripping the heads off several of the screws as I tried to drive it in. So I upped the drill to a 7/64" bit - however this hole was a little too loose - the screw still went in and got *some* grip, but not as much as I would have liked. It's too bad there isn't an in-between bit. If you decide to use a 3/32" bit, do yourself a favor and pick up some extra of the above screws at West Marine, so that if you strip the head you have extras.

Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.50.32 AM.png - Here is how the new fixture looks fully installed and turned on. On this one I used the chrome/metallic cover.

Screen Shot 2018-09-16 at 9.51.53 AM.png - Here are all 4 installed. Clockwise from top left - black cover, no cover, white cover, chrome cover. I did it this way so the Admiral could make a choice of which looked best next time she is out on the boat!

I had to leave the boat yesterday before nightfall - so I will post some pics when I am next at the boat during the night.
 
Sounds like you only needed the circle piece or the s/s shaft.....not the arm?

Here's the schematic with part numbers I used when ordering components.

http://www.taylormadesystems.com/hardware/drawings/HatchArm_UltraII.pdf
Yes I used the same .pdf and I appreciate the help. The semi-tubular rivet failed and the hatch arms along with latches are 2005 vintage so thought best to just replace everything ($130 for all). My problem is now I am pretty certain the whole hatch has to come out to replace the arm since there is what looks like a reversed hollow screw or rivet that starts on the "outside" ledge of the hatch so there is no access to remove the arm primary stationary portion. I hope someone who has gone through this is watching this thread. The last thing I want to do is remove the whole hatch...
Again, thanks
 
Yes I used the same .pdf and I appreciate the help. The semi-tubular rivet failed and the hatch arms along with latches are 2005 vintage so thought best to just replace everything ($130 for all). My problem is now I am pretty certain the whole hatch has to come out to replace the arm since there is what looks like a reversed hollow screw or rivet that starts on the "outside" ledge of the hatch so there is no access to remove the arm primary stationary portion. I hope someone who has gone through this is watching this thread. The last thing I want to do is remove the whole hatch...
Again, thanks

At almost 14 years old, it's probably a good idea to remove the hatch and rebed with new sealer anyhow.
 
Yes I used the same .pdf and I appreciate the help. The semi-tubular rivet failed and the hatch arms along with latches are 2005 vintage so thought best to just replace everything ($130 for all). My problem is now I am pretty certain the whole hatch has to come out to replace the arm since there is what looks like a reversed hollow screw or rivet that starts on the "outside" ledge of the hatch so there is no access to remove the arm primary stationary portion. I hope someone who has gone through this is watching this thread. The last thing I want to do is remove the whole hatch...
Again, thanks

Yep the reverse rivet is the same setup on my hatch. I managed to avert having to remove the arms. If I had to remove the hatch arms I would probably consider cutting off the reversed rivet with a small cutting disc on a dremel and then drill out and install new rivet. Only issue is whether there is something on the other side of the hatch frame preventing the rivet to be inserted and installed.
 
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With the rivet sticking out the other side it might interfere with the removal of the whole frame down the road when it needs to be rebidded. Grind it off as suggested and put it back on with a tiny sheet metal screw.
 
OVERHEAD COCKPIT LED LIGHT REPLACEMENT

View attachment 60155 So I walked into West Marine yesterday and noticed they are selling "LED Recessed Mount Flood Light" for $24.99 (less 15% discount as part of an interior lighting sale). They come with a black, chrome and white cover that you can swap out. This West Marine also had both blue and white colored lights. I bought blue.

View attachment 60157 View attachment 60158 View attachment 60159 I was originally going to convert the existing Attwood lights to LED, so I had previously purchased blue 1142 LED's from superbrightleds.com for $6.95 each. However the oval shaped contacts on the LED bulbs had trouble making contact with the worn down round and partially recessed Attwood contacts. I was actually on my way to West Marine to see if there was something else I could buy to get the existing Attwood's working with the 1142 LEDs when I spotted the new fixtures for sale.

View attachment 60160 - If you decide to go with these West Marine fixtures, you will also want to purchase Nylon disconnects at West Marine to join into the existing Sea Ray wiring. The wires coming off the new fixtures is 20AWG (which unfortunately West Marine doesn't put on the packaging - the store associate and I had to use a magnifying glass to see the gauge). However West Marine was out of 18-22AWG nylon disconnects. So I decided to buy the next highest, and fold over the wire before crimping.

View attachment 60164 - Also since they didn't have the shielded Nylon disconnects, I ended up wrapping electrical tape around the connection points after joining (this pic is pre wrapping electrical tape - when I turned on the light for a sec to make sure the connection was successful). NOTE: These fixtures are polarity sensitive - red wire needs to go to positive (which is blue wire on the Sea Ray) and black needs to go to negative.

View attachment 60165 - The new fixtures are held in with x3 #4 3/4" Phillips screws. These won't match your old screw holes - so you will need to drill new holes. I first drilled with a 3/32" bit, but the hole was so tight, that I ended up stripping the heads off several of the screws as I tried to drive it in. So I upped the drill to a 7/64" bit - however this hole was a little too loose - the screw still went in and got *some* grip, but not as much as I would have liked. It's too bad there isn't an in-between bit. If you decide to use a 3/32" bit, do yourself a favor and pick up some extra of the above screws at West Marine, so that if you strip the head you have extras.

View attachment 60166 - Here is how the new fixture looks fully installed and turned on. On this one I used the chrome/metallic cover.

View attachment 60167 - Here are all 4 installed. Clockwise from top left - black cover, no cover, white cover, chrome cover. I did it this way so the Admiral could make a choice of which looked best next time she is out on the boat!

I had to leave the boat yesterday before nightfall - so I will post some pics when I am next at the boat during the night.
We finally visited the boat last night and stayed until after dark! Attached is pic of new blue cockpit LEDs:
Screen Shot 2018-09-23 at 12.59.45 AM.png
 
So I’m enjoying drinks and guests Saturday evening in cockpit with A/C on. Then I begin to get a burning smell from AC vent. No noise just smell. Wife says coolair was still exiting vents but I shut it down and smell disappeared. One of the guests mentioned it was probably the Fan or blower motor just went up? Anyone have a similar experience or suggestion of what may have happened? Unit is Original under helm bench seat.
 
Finally upgraded my CO detectors.
20180923_112052.jpg
20180923_112039.jpg
20180923_112101.jpg


The one in the guest cabin was the worst at pushing wires back in, but it was doable.


Also added some battery smoke/CO detectors as well - one in the galley and one in the cockpit.
20180923_114335.jpg
20180923_113606.jpg
20180923_114345.jpg
 
Also fixed my cable/antenna issue. Guess when they added the sat tv, they just decided to disconnect the glomex. Sheesh!
20180923_120757.jpg

Added a splitter/combiner to get it piped back in and it works like a champ!
20180923_133452.jpg

By the way, easiest way to take the door off is to
1. Loosen screw (3x)
2. May have to turn screw to give more clearance (3x)
3. Pull door out and hinges will come off
20180923_163420.jpg
 
Also fixed my cable/antenna issue. Guess when they added the sat tv, they just decided to disconnect the glomex. Sheesh!
View attachment 60503

Added a splitter/combiner to get it piped back in and it works like a champ!
View attachment 60504

By the way, easiest way to take the door off is to
1. Loosen screw (3x)
2. May have to turn screw to give more clearance (3x)
3. Pull door out and hinges will come off
View attachment 60505
I found they did the same thing on mine. I had to access and rehook up the old wires - luckily they hadn’t cut the old wires.
 
Has anyone installed a swing down mount for a TV from the ceiling of the cockpit hard top? One that can be pretty flush with "ceiling" but then pulled down when you want to view? Any suggestions/pics would be appreciated.
 
Someone has done it here on the sight... I dont remember what thread though. It was basically a pull down surface mount like you would see in the aftermarket to add in a van or SUV. It was forward of the sky light I think ?... I know it was a hard top ....try here or the 390 thread to find it
 
Someone has done it here on the sight... I dont remember what thread though. It was basically a pull down surface mount like you would see in the aftermarket to add in a van or SUV. It was forward of the sky light I think ?... I know it was a hard top ....try here or the 390 thread to find it
Thanks. I have spent the last hour looking on all threads, could not find so best to post the Q. Thanks!!
 

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