Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

Alex

I just let it drain out in my boat in the space under the engines. Then I have a little pump to suck it into a bucket using my drill. Just takes a couple of minutes and makes me clean the bilge.

Don’t forget the thermostats if you haven’t changed them as well.

Josh
 
Bill,

Thanks for the tip. If I understand correctly, you use a hose by coolant filter since it's much easier to get to vs. the petcock. It that correct?

I did find the petcock and trying to figure out best way to collect the coolant from there. Maybe there's a way to stick a small hose in by directing the flow in a bucket. There's just no room to place any kind of collecting pan under the engines.

Any ideas?
I close off the valves to the filter and then pull off the hose at the filter. It's easier to do if you first remove the air pipe between the aftercooler and the engine. I then slip that hose inside a bigger diameter hose long enough to reach a bucket set between the engines. After that is done you could stick a long shallow pan under the petcock to get the rest. Or even just open the petcock and let it drain between the engines then shop vac out that gallon or so.
 
Yes, I agree that draining in the engine bay is the easiest option. I just hate making a mess in there, b/c it's a tight space and with hoses on the bottom makes it more difficult to clean.

I think draining 7 gal via the filter and collecting via hose thru a funnel into a bucket is a good idea. Then use 2 gal ziploc bag to catch remaining 1 gal from a petcock.

Last time when I had the service done by Cummins tech I asked about thermostats. He said if they don't give you any trouble, don't worry about it. Well, they're only getting older. So, I'd like to replace the thermostats. Is it difficult to get to it?

BTW, I'm also thinking to replace the coolant filler caps.
 
I’ve replaced both. Thermostats were not difficult but did require some disassembly to get the housing off. If I remember correctly sbmar sold me the kit with thermostats and gaskets. For me it was just a piece of mind thing as I have 1500 hours now. FYI. Ryder fleet services has the best deal on coolant and coolant filters.
 
I’ve replaced both. Thermostats were not difficult but did require some disassembly to get the housing off. If I remember correctly sbmar sold me the kit with thermostats and gaskets. For me it was just a piece of mind thing as I have 1500 hours now. FYI. Ryder fleet services has the best deal on coolant and coolant filters.
Alex, there is a discussion a few pages back starting with post 164, about changing the t-stats. With pictures.

I replaced my 15psi caps with 13psi caps just to give some margin on hose and clamp wear.
 
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Bill,

Thanks for the tip. If I understand correctly, you use a hose by coolant filter since it's much easier to get to vs. the petcock. It that correct?

I did find the petcock and trying to figure out best way to collect the coolant from there. Maybe there's a way to stick a small hose in by directing the flow in a bucket. There's just no room to place any kind of collecting pan under the engines.

Any ideas?
You are going to get some spillage under the engine, and it will fall into the engine hold bilge (not overboard). It's a messy operation, but just let it drop, and wet vac it up.
 
I just changed my coolant on both engines. I used a 5 gallon bucket and a funnel with a short hose pressed onto it. I could drain from the filter and two other hoses right into the funnel/bucket without spilling any. Not sure why you have to drain to the bilge and vacuum..... unless my access or configuration is different ?
 
Is there a trick to bleed the air out when refilling new coolant?
 
I just changed my coolant on both engines. I used a 5 gallon bucket and a funnel with a short hose pressed onto it. I could drain from the filter and two other hoses right into the funnel/bucket without spilling any. Not sure why you have to drain to the bilge and vacuum..... unless my access or configuration is different ?

We're talking about draining remaining 1 gal, which can only be drained via the petcock on the block. It's my understanding that you got only about 7 gal from the filter hoses. This means that there's another gallon in the block.
 
Is there a trick to bleed the air out when refilling new coolant?
I just leave the petcock at the top of the heat exchanger open until it starts coming out there. Then I close that and top of the tank and fill the overflow jug about 1/3 full. Then I just go boating. I open the hx petcock at the end of the next couple of runs to burp out any remaining air. Often there isn't any.
 
We're talking about draining remaining 1 gal, which can only be drained via the petcock on the block. It's my understanding that you got only about 7 gal from the filter hoses. This means that there's another gallon in the block.

My understanding is there is a little over 7.5 gallons...I think 7.6 if I remember right. The hose in the picture I removed and got more out of it and another around the Turbo...I don't have a pic of that one and I got every bit of 7.5 gallons.... if there is a bit more in there than i got most of it with the flush. Your right the petcock assures... but I think I was really close
Engine Strbd (2)_LI.jpg
 
Tony Athens at Seaboard Marine says you get 95 percent of it out via the coolant filter. It'll be fun to see how much more Alex removes via the block drain.
 
Bill,
I'll give a shot on draining remains on PORT engine, as the petcock is easily accessed. If it's not much and not worth the hassle, I may not bother with it on the STBD side.

Do you guys do the entire cleaning procedure (run CR, then flush it with water and refill new collant) using Coolant restore, or do you just drain and refill with new coolant?
 
I actually purchased the restore. I did it in my stbd engine and it didn’t remove anything significant. So I skipped it on the port. To be honest I am just a backyard mechanic type of guy so I hate for you to follow my lead on this one since the proper procedure is to use restore.
 
I am preparing to pull my aftercoolers and heat exchangers on my 2004 420 with the 6CTA's. I have V-drives. It's been a bit over 2 years since the raw water train has been cleaned.

My wrench helper and I were at the boat this weekend and were "pre-gaming" the job. The question we have is this: Is it recommended to remove the Port side exhaust tube to facilitate removal of the Port side heat exchanger?

Our thoughts are to remove the exchangers and have them cleaned, in lieu of cleaning them with circulating solution.

Any recommendations or suggestions are appreciated.

Jaybeaux
 
I have V Drives and I was able to remove and service both of mine without taking the exhaust off.

Josh
 

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