420 DA Thread

Did you find the plug behind the helm seat and under the AC vent? I havnt been able to find one and trying to figure out how to run one for a tv there?

Its hard to see. You have to remove the access panel behind helm seat. I think there are two panels behind helm seat and the speaker. I removed the panel closest to port side. 6 screws. I then reached hand in and going towards stbd side behind speaker felt the outlet and the plug in it. From there I just felt where the plug was running to. It, and the tv cable went into a plastic cable shield. As a matter of fact just look for that plastic shield near the AC duct and grab it. Here are a few pics from my phone taken. You have to be acrobatic to get down there for this job. Thats why you see my wife's hand. "I'm the Captain". LOL
IMG_4783.JPG IMG_4785.JPG IMG_4786.JPG IMG_4782.JPG IMG_4784.JPG
 
Good evening sports fans. Well, there is good news and bad news. To start with the good.....the service department at my marina called this morning and informed me that my boat was hauled out and put in the detail shop this morning. On the hard, under a roof, and it will likely be there through the passage of Hurricane Florence! What timing!

So I took the opportunity to go down to the marina to inspect my running gear. Anyone in the mid-Atlantic and Chesapeake Bay area knows that with the huge amounts of rain that we've had this year, the waters have been chock full of debris. It has been well documented. And we were not immune to this situation, as we bumped into things a few times. But, there were no vibrations indicating any sort of "major damage".......or so I thought! View attachment 59993
My starboard underwater exhaust outlet is missing! Ouch! I guess I did hit something pretty good. I had the Service Manager come down and give me an assessment of my propellers. There was no noticeable dings or nicks, or anything. He used a straight edge to see if the blades were all even.....and they are out just enough to warrant having them tuned.

All in all, nothing that can't be fixed. I did notice during the last trip we took in August, that the starboard engine wouldn't hit wide open throttle of 2700 rpm as has been its norm. I only hit 2650 rpm (analog gauges....). I am wondering if missing the exhaust outlet, with its torpedo shape, doesn't create a low pressure on the back side thus helping to "pull" the exhaust out of the engine and through the bottom of the boat? Seems plausible to me. Thoughts?

Jaybeaux

I would say your theory on the exhaust vacuum is correct and your missing 50 rpm is due to too much back pressure.

The week after we got home from the chesapeake I had a diver do a visual check just for my comfort. His only comments were two areas near the bow where the paint rubs were noticeable and one of my exhaust ports had a big chunk of missing paint on the leading edge.
 
i have the st.croix as well.

although i love having the dink off the back of the boat (not crowding the swim platform)...there needs to be a LOT of bracing under the swim platform. The top is very thin.

i was really concerned the top of the swim platform was going to open like a can of sardines until in braced it with straps.

View attachment 59972

i have risers to. they keep the dink just outside of the water while running.

coming off plane requires a gentler touch as well. the wake wave that comes behind gently kisses the underside of the dink. coming off plane quickly will definitely pick 'er up.

View attachment 59974


Found some pictures of the plates under the swim platform for the St.Croix hoist.

20180728_074824.jpg 20180728_074848.jpg

They do a good job of spreading the load, but not bracing to a more secure part of the boat.
 
Trying to replace the arms in hard top cockpit hatch. Current arms are shot. Looks like original install has rivets holding arm to hatch frame. Anyone do this replacement or change one out? Do I need to take entire hatch assembly off to gain access or is there a smart way?
 

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My post #1482 got buried so I will try once more
1. Anyone have a reusable winter cover?
2. Anyone replace rudder shaft packing?
3. Anyone upgrade house batteries to maybe 4D size?

Thanks!
 
My post #1482 got buried so I will try once more
1. Anyone have a reusable winter cover?
2. Anyone replace rudder shaft packing?
3. Anyone upgrade house batteries to maybe 4D size?

Thanks!


1. I know of plenty of people who just use their canvas cover over winter. I like to wrap to make sure things are protected, but I'm sure a canvas cover would work. Depends on where your winters are, I think.

2. Sorry. Can't help.

3. I've always heard people gripe and moan about the 4Ds. Not sure I see much benefit for price and hassle, to be honest.
 
Trying to replace the arms in hard top cockpit hatch. Current arms are shot. Looks like original install has rivets holding arm to hatch frame. Anyone do this replacement or change one out? Do I need to take entire hatch assembly off to gain access or is there a smart way?


i would check with taylor made for parts
Customer Service: 518-773-0636
http://www.taylormadeproducts.com/cgi-bin/catalog.pl?item_id=222

Capture.PNG


It's a 20x20 Ultra II

http://www.taylormadesystems.com/hardware/parts/hatchParts/index.html
 
3. I've always heard people gripe and moan about the 4Ds. Not sure I see much benefit for price and hassle, to be honest.

I agree... is there a reason you need that battery power for an inverter or something?
I am fine all day anchored out on standard batteries
 
Trying to extend anchor time without running generator. My existing batteries are admittedly bad, but anchored out on Labor Day, only got about 12 hours before they crapped out entirely. (Learned that our CO detectors will wake you up when batteries die). Was only running refrigeration and anchor light and basic stuff like water and heads. Minimal lights. I’d like to be able to spend 48 hours. Thinking that 4D has almost double Reserve Capacity of group 31.
 
My post #1482 got buried so I will try once more
1. Anyone have a reusable winter cover?
2. Anyone replace rudder shaft packing?
3. Anyone upgrade house batteries to maybe 4D size?

Thanks!
1. going for my second winter w this boat and will shrink wrap again as I have with past boats. I had a discussion with one of my dock neighbors about shrink wrap vs canvas re-usable. He said "the day that his canvas winter cover reached the end of it's life he was thrilled to get rid of it. It was heavy, a pain to store, a "bear" to put on and take off and always needed expensive maintenance. It is tempting to me though as it just seems very wasteful to shrink wrap and throw out every year.

2. I've learned a lot about repacking the rudder shaft recently, I "supervised" another dock neighbor tighten one and repack another on his 390. nearly the same as our setup. Both of mine were "weeping" and just 3 hours ago a re-tightening seemed to stop it. Backed down (loosened) 1/2 turn on the lower nut then cranked down on the upper. I managed to get a full turn(down, tighten)on the upper, I found this youtube and it's very similar to our 420-44 setup,

3. Have not upgrade batteries
 
Trying to replace the arms in hard top cockpit hatch. Current arms are shot. Looks like original install has rivets holding arm to hatch frame. Anyone do this replacement or change one out? Do I need to take entire hatch assembly off to gain access or is there a smart way?

What was wrong with the original arms?

I only ask because I refurbed the arms on my boat with new knobs etc as they were not gripping the shaft. Got away without having to remove the arms that way.
 
What was wrong with the original arms?

I only ask because I refurbed the arms on my boat with new knobs etc as they were not gripping the shaft. Got away without having to remove the arms that way.
The "circle" piece that accommodates the thru the hatch latch mechanism held by a rivet tore loose on one. I expect the other is not far behind
 
Thanks! I ordered every piece in that .pdf from Taylor so I received all new everything but it does not come with hardware. Both sides were only $130. I don't know how to access the attach points of the rear facing arm hold. It looks like a reverse rivet buried internally in the hatch frame. Rather not tear the entire hatch out to find that I will then be well outside my wheelhouse of repair.
 

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