Official (1998-2002) 310 Sundancer Thread

Thanks. I just got home from the boat. I changed the GFCI in the head. That wasn’t it. I can’t remember if the outlet there is GFCI or not. I’ll check that next time. Thank you.
Our refrigerator is plugged into a GFCI outlet. I had to pull it out to reset it.
 
Our refrigerator is plugged into a GFCI outlet. I had to pull it out to reset it.
Thanks. I looked at the schematics last night and saw 3 GFCIs. The refrigerator GFCI then feeds the outlet in the v-berth on the port side. For me, that one is working.
 
Drain in Head floor...

Has anyone come up with a solution or better way to get the drain to work better. Ours continues to be moody (sometimes it works perfectly and other times it needs some coaxing). I have tried hair removal cleaner, plungers, taking it apart and cleaning, different shower sump, etc. I realize the location is not idea either, being in the front of the head, but there is no way around that.

Just looking to see if anyone has come up with something?
 
Bobeast,
Problem solved. The GFCI in the mid-cabin was popped. I changed the receptacle out. Thanks!
 
So admiral gave the go ahead for a new boat. Have been looking since spring for 330SD. Not much around these days. Lately a couple of 310s have popped up. Very similar boat. Slightly smaller but the admiral likes the newer, more neutral interiors of the 1999-2002 era than the pastels of the mid 90s. So I could compromise. I'd be going V-drive and prefer the water lift muffler modification. Prices seem all over the place. What would you say is a reasonable price range? Anything specific to look for? Thanks in advance.
 
So admiral gave the go ahead for a new boat. Have been looking since spring for 330SD. Not much around these days. Lately a couple of 310s have popped up. Very similar boat. Slightly smaller but the admiral likes the newer, more neutral interiors of the 1999-2002 era than the pastels of the mid 90s. So I could compromise. I'd be going V-drive and prefer the water lift muffler modification. Prices seem all over the place. What would you say is a reasonable price range? Anything specific to look for? Thanks in advance.

Prices are all over because there were many different options on these.
Ie-Sterndrives/inboards/ Fresh water cooling/ generator/Cherry or white interiors.
I paid 53K 4 years ago for a fully loaded 2002 V drives/FWC/Generator/
Cherry interior /full electronic package
220 hours.
As with any boat of this era it all depends how the seller maintained it.
These boats are prone to deck rot by the hatches and windlass if they never have been removed and re bedded.
A Survey by a reputable surveyor should be done as long as oil samples of all the machinery.
I looked at 4 310's before i bought this boat.
3 were junk
I could tell they weren't maintained.
1 was immaculate inside and out. I had a survey done.
oil sample for port motor came back with antifreeze and water and high copper in the port motor. When i told the seller he admitted to overheating the motor and blowing a head gasket.
also the bonding system had problem.
I walked away.
And found the one I own now after survey and good oil samples.
Its a great boat.
I prefer the 01-02 models. They came with bigger props and a one piece electric opening engine hatch.
 
Help! We downsized from our 370DA to a 2000 310DA a few months ago.

I have an electrical problem. We were away for 2 weeks. Today, the ice maker in the cockpit was dead. I tracked the issue to the circuit that the ice maker is in also has the electrical outlet under the cockpit sink, the head’s lights, tv outlet. All are also dead.

Weird thing is the breaker is labeled outlets/refrigerator. The forward overhead light above the galley table is connected somehow to this circuit. It has power and no light switches turns it off except flipping the breaker off. Everything was fine 2 weeks ago.

Anywhere to start looking?
Ice maker wasn't even an option on these boats.
Someone must have added it and spliced it in some where.
 
Drain in Head floor...

Has anyone come up with a solution or better way to get the drain to work better. Ours continues to be moody (sometimes it works perfectly and other times it needs some coaxing). I have tried hair removal cleaner, plungers, taking it apart and cleaning, different shower sump, etc. I realize the location is not idea either, being in the front of the head, but there is no way around that.

Just looking to see if anyone has come up with something?

I had a problem with mine.
Tried everything that you did.
I removed the drain strainer and found the when the drain was installed into the floor they used a lot of silicone.
When it was tightened down a lot squished inside hardening and restricting the drain.
I removed it with a pick and needle nose pliers.
drains great now.
I agree the drain should have been put in a different spot.
The water always goes to the front of the floor and not back to the drain.
 
So admiral gave the go ahead for a new boat. Have been looking since spring for 330SD. Not much around these days. Lately a couple of 310s have popped up. Very similar boat. Slightly smaller but the admiral likes the newer, more neutral interiors of the 1999-2002 era than the pastels of the mid 90s. So I could compromise. I'd be going V-drive and prefer the water lift muffler modification. Prices seem all over the place. What would you say is a reasonable price range? Anything specific to look for? Thanks in advance.
Here in CA, decent ones are running anywhere from 50 to 65 k. Generator and ac are must have items, imo. V drives will cost more but you’ll get that back on resale, particularly if you are in the salt
 
I had a problem with mine.
Tried everything that you did.
I removed the drain strainer and found the when the drain was installed into the floor they used a lot of silicone.
When it was tightened down a lot squished inside hardening and restricting the drain.
I removed it with a pick and needle nose pliers.
drains great now.
I agree the drain should have been put in a different spot.
The water always goes to the front of the floor and not back to the drain.

Thanks. We will try in.. Does the drain strainer just unscrew?
 
Does any one know the measurements of the bolt pattern on the V drive shaft coupling to make a push plate if I have to replace my cutlass bearing.Plus of the size bearing on my 2000 310 Da.
 
I am changing the fuel/water separators on the new to me 200 310DA. I have one right in front of the port engine on the bulkhead. I can’t find the other ones for life of me (starboard tank and for the generator).

Any ideas where these are?
 
I am changing the fuel/water separators on the new to me 200 310DA. I have one right in front of the port engine on the bulkhead. I can’t find the other ones for life of me (starboard tank and for the generator).

Any ideas where these are?

Theres one on each motor lower right side if you're looking towards the stern by the raw water pump.
On my 2002 my generator filter is by the port tank.
The one on the bulkhead is probably your generator filter.
 
Anyone change the hot water tank? Do you remove the vacuflush or the oil filter assembly on the port engine to get it out?
 
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Well, I found a source for water on my aft bunk carpet floor. Luckily not the water tank. Dry as can be. No spots, stains.

But the first picture is under my bath sink. A good liitle spot of mold. You can see the drip line on tge carpet coming from the top. The 3rd picture is outside and possible entry points. Could be window, rail, cleat caulking. My sink drain was cracked, butvwe didnt use the sink that much. I pulled 3/4,gallon from the carpet under the aft bunk.

Its tight getting behind the power vent and the other insulated 3-4 inch air line...not sure what the insulated air line is. AC intake? That wouldnt come from aft would it? I guess Ill remove the microwave and see if I can find anything there. I suspect this is from years of slow leak, but the 3 days of storms here made it very apparent.

Suggestions?
 
Lloking at the pic im wondering if thats antifreeze. Perhaps the system was damaged at the fill port last year.
 
What happens if I keep the refrigerator breaker on in the 120 volt panel along with the converter to keep the batteries charging and also the 12 volt panel for the refrigerator
 

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