AC pump

mobocracy said:
Is it considered overly paranoid to use marine heat shrink over heat-shrink crimp connectors?
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Absolutely! But would I do that? - Probably. Remember the engineering motto: If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing! :)
 
northshore said:
Absolutely! But would I do that? - Probably. Remember the engineering motto: If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing! :)
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I'm not even sure I consider it overdoing it. I've used the Ancor marine shrink crimps and while they work well, I'm never 100% sold on the strength of the physical connection without an extra layer of Ancor heat shrink tube over the entire connection to add a layer of physical hold to the entire business.

Or maybe I just like Ancor shrink tubing. I find it's also awesome for whipping rope and bungee cord ends.
 
I was wiring something once and soldered a smaller gauge wire to a larger gauge so used smaller shrink tube on the smaller wire with a larger one over that overlapping the ends just to make sure it sealed up. The larger one wouldn't shrink quite enough to seal around the smaller wire by itself.
 
Cannot ever be over paranoid when making electrical connections on your boat. Anything that is in the engine compartment gets heat shrink crimps, then liquid tape brushed on, and finished with shrink tubing. Certainly sealed and insulated. Cabin and non engine room areas get heat shrink crimps and tubing over top at least 1/2 inch past crimps. Some may view as an overkill, but never have had any issues with corrosion or coming loose..
 
Got the pump today and got it installed. Can't test it until it's in the water but assuming it will work...lol. Went ahead and replaced the strainer with the same one that was already in there but the mesh basket was missing from the other one.

Also replaced the anodes and fuel filter/separator today. Still need to change the drive oil then will be ready to drop it in for the last few weeks of the season...lol
 
Launched the boat today. AC didn't work at first but after an hour of running up and down river came back to see the strainer full and AC fired up and worked fine. Boat was fine too. Now just need to figure out the fresh water issue then we are all good.
 
Nice! Some boats don’t prime the AC pump as easily as others.
My current boat’s primed as soon as it’s dropped in the water.
My old boat wouldn’t prime when dropped in the water even after a long ride.
Fastest and easiest way to prime it in the water:
With AC turned off, pull hose off of discharge side of pump for a second (or less) until water comes out of the pump.
Shove hose back on to nipple on pump and tighten clamps.
Now turn on the AC and enjoy it.
 
A dock neighbor said he put a T in after his pump and put a valve on the other T. He opens that valve to bleed his system.

Went back out again today for another hour or so. So put just about 2 hours on it today at about 4000 RPM and it ran fine. It was a good day!
 
mobocracy said:
I'm not even sure I consider it overdoing it. I've used the Ancor marine shrink crimps and while they work well, I'm never 100% sold on the strength of the physical connection without an extra layer of Ancor heat shrink tube over the entire connection to add a layer of physical hold to the entire business.

Or maybe I just like Ancor shrink tubing. I find it's also awesome for whipping rope and bungee cord ends.
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We make test equipment for automotive and aerospace industries that vibration tests components and sub-assemblies.
I've never seen a failure in mechanical crimps if they are made correctly and supported correctly. I need to remember that a lot of the crew on this board lives in salt water where sealing the connection is a bit more important than it is for those of us in freshwater but either way it certainly cant hurt to throw some shrink tubing over the top of it.
 
boatman37 said:
A dock neighbor said he put a T in after his pump and put a valve on the other T. He opens that valve to bleed his system.

Went back out again today for another hour or so. So put just about 2 hours on it today at about 4000 RPM and it ran fine. It was a good day!
Click to expand...

That would work too.
 
JVM225 said:
That would work too.
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When you put a tee, why not plumb in one of these into your tee. you can use it to attach a water hose to prime your pump or even introduce glycol when winterizing.

everbilt-hose-bibbs-vhnqtrb4eb-64_400_compressed.jpg
 
northshore said:
Absolutely! But would I do that? - Probably. Remember the engineering motto: If it's worth doing, it's worth overdoing! :)
Click to expand...
Can anyone tell me why all of my switches on my dash don't work on my 2015 Sea Ray Sundeck 220? The only things that work are my gauges and stereo. No blower, no cabin lights, nav lights.... I've checked all of the fuses and circuit breakers that i could find and nothing seems to be out of the ordinary. Are there any hidden breakers or fuses that are not in plain sight that I maybe over looked?

Thank You,

Steve
 
Mobtanker13 said:
Can anyone tell me why all of my switches on my dash don't work on my 2015 Sea Ray Sundeck 220? The only things that work are my gauges and stereo. No blower, no cabin lights, nav lights.... I've checked all of the fuses and circuit breakers that i could find and nothing seems to be out of the ordinary. Are there any hidden breakers or fuses that are not in plain sight that I maybe over looked?

Thank You,

Steve
Click to expand...
Battery switch off or battery dead?
 
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