Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Ovmman said:
Hi ferris, had the same problem, turned out the hose from the drain had loosened up, never did find a way to remove that panel,wound up cutting a small access hole about 6x4" then covered it with a small plaque. Actually looks pretty good,and leaves future access
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Funny you mention that, I think I just figured it out the source as well. The drain fitting halves loosened. I sealed and tightened them and will check again soon.

I was hoping to remove it only because the lower half of that panel is soaked and sagging, hoping to epoxy it back a bit.

I liked the access panel idea because I can easily see a case where that hose needs replacing as the boat ages.
 
Is there anyone active on the 280 thread that has replaced their port side forward cupholder (the useless plastic one) with the updated 3 ring stainless one that came on later models? I seem to remember seeing that it had been done in this thread, but can't find it now. I purchased the new stainless cupholder from FP marine, just need a bit of guidance as to how to go about removing the headliner underneath it to access the nuts without making a mess or damaging anything.
 
stg099 said:
Is there anyone active on the 280 thread that has replaced their port side forward cupholder (the useless plastic one) with the updated 3 ring stainless one that came on later models? I seem to remember seeing that it had been done in this thread, but can't find it now. I purchased the new stainless cupholder from FP marine, just need a bit of guidance as to how to go about removing the headliner underneath it to access the nuts without making a mess or damaging anything.
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removal is a little complicated because the 2 screws that hold the top of that panel are hidden under the padded vinyl covering. I had to actually cut the vinyl because I could not feel them, but you can order a similar replacement padded vinyl and staple that over the damaged vinyl. this post has the best step by step and pictures.

another benefit of removing this panel is that there is easy access to run a lead from the light switch for use with additional blue led lights inside the cabin.
 

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paul hsu said:
removal is a little complicated because the 2 screws that hold the top of that panel are hidden under the padded vinyl covering. I had to actually cut the vinyl because I could not feel them, but you can order a similar replacement padded vinyl and staple that over the damaged vinyl. this post has the best step by step and pictures.

another benefit of removing this panel is that there is easy access to run a lead from the light switch for use with additional blue led lights inside the cabin.
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Paul, this is super helpful, thank you very much!
 
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Guess this will be my last post here. We sold our 280DA a short while ago and have joined the "dark side" now with a 411 Meridian Sedan Bridge. We started the trek home from FL to TX last weekend and hope to have the new "Maggie Mae" home by the end of the month.

Had a lot of great memories with our 280 and she was a great platform to learn the ropes. I've uploaded all the manuals and documents I had for the boat and onboard systems and hope that has or will help a few folks. Greatly enjoyed the forum, advice, and comradery here. Club SeaRay is a real gem, many online forums are not.
 
mjoplin said:
View attachment 58702
Guess this will be my last post here. We sold our 280DA a short while ago and have joined the "dark side" now with a 411 Meridian Sedan Bridge. We started the trek home from FL to TX last weekend and hope to have the new "Maggie Mae" home by the end of the month.

Had a lot of great memories with our 280 and she was a great platform to learn the ropes. I've uploaded all the manuals and documents I had for the boat and onboard systems and hope that has or will help a few folks. Greatly enjoyed the forum, advice, and comradery here. Club SeaRay is a real gem, many online forums are not.
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Congratulations on your new boat, she is gorgeous!
 
Bit the bullet and had the old Halon manual/automatic system replaced. I was made aware of the depleted bottle when we did the survey last November and earlier this year had it inspected (which it failed). Even though we have two large free standing extinguishers on board I was concerned that we didn't have an automatic one in the ER. Especially if we did have a fire and the insurance co requested maint. docs.
 
Does anyone know the routing the VHF radio antenna cable takes from the side of the starboard side arch, to the radio at the helm? I purchased a new antenna (old one deteriorated) and need to run the new antenna cable forward to the helm.

I removed the access panel on the arch and saw the wire go down. I then removed a panel inside the cabinet under the cockpit sink (towards the stern). I then saw the VHF wire make a turn going forward through an access hole. Pulling on it, it won't budge. How can I track it down from here?!!
 
Gunn said:
Does anyone know the routing the VHF radio antenna cable takes from the side of the starboard side arch, to the radio at the helm? I purchased a new antenna (old one deteriorated) and need to run the new antenna cable forward to the helm.

I removed the access panel on the arch and saw the wire go down. I then removed a panel inside the cabinet under the cockpit sink (towards the stern). I then saw the VHF wire make a turn going forward through an access hole. Pulling on it, it won't budge. How can I track it down from here?!!
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I changed mine several years ago. Soon after it leaves the arch it goes through a hole full of caulk with some other wires. I used some kind of tool to ream around the coax until it came loose. I took the aft berth starboard end wall panel out and from there could pull the cable through and fish it up to where it could be reached through the little door at the foot of the helm.

I ran my wire in one piece but from the factory it had a splice behind the arch access panel.
 
Gunn said:
Does anyone know the routing the VHF radio antenna cable takes from the side of the starboard side arch, to the radio at the helm? I purchased a new antenna (old one deteriorated) and need to run the new antenna cable forward to the helm.

I removed the access panel on the arch and saw the wire go down. I then removed a panel inside the cabinet under the cockpit sink (towards the stern). I then saw the VHF wire make a turn going forward through an access hole. Pulling on it, it won't budge. How can I track it down from here?!!
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As Woody stated, I just connected my new cable to the splice behind the access panel. I was lucky, my cable was damaged at the antenna end, so I left the rest alone.
 
Thanks Woody and Paul, that is very helpful. I didn't think about going down into the cabin and into the aft berth to get access to this wire. That is my job tomorrow in this nasty heat and humidity!
 
I'd be interested in hearing what is the biggest seas you've all had your 280 DAs out in ? How did the boat handle the waves and how fast were you comfortably able to go ?
Thanks
 
Hi everyone. Took my first twilight cruise last and stumbled on a minor (I hope) electrical issue. When I energized my NAV lights my anchor light (on the arch) energized as well. Both dashboard switch indicator lights came on when I pressed the nav light button but nothing happens (on or off) when I press the anchor light button. Is this operator error, a config setting or a wiring problem? Thoughts anyone?
 
Cruising said:
I'd be interested in hearing what is the biggest seas you've all had your 280 DAs out in ? How did the boat handle the waves and how fast were you comfortably able to go ?
Thanks
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3' cruising speed 25 mph but not very comfortable. This is on the great lakes - so keep in mind that 3' at 7 sec. intervals on the great lakes is a lot different than 14 sec intervals you might find on the Ocean.
 
Cap’n Sparky said:
Hi everyone. Took my first twilight cruise last and stumbled on a minor (I hope) electrical issue. When I energized my NAV lights my anchor light (on the arch) energized as well. Both dashboard switch indicator lights came on when I pressed the nav light button but nothing happens (on or off) when I press the anchor light button. Is this operator error, a config setting or a wiring problem? Thoughts anyone?
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Did you check the light (anchor switch on) with a voltmeter?
 
Cap’n Sparky said:
Hi everyone. Took my first twilight cruise last and stumbled on a minor (I hope) electrical issue. When I energized my NAV lights my anchor light (on the arch) energized as well. Both dashboard switch indicator lights came on when I pressed the nav light button but nothing happens (on or off) when I press the anchor light button. Is this operator error, a config setting or a wiring problem? Thoughts anyone?
Click to expand...

Just to clarify, I think your setup is working as intended. If I have my nav lights on, my anchor light comes on as well. If i turn on only the anchor light, it will engage by itself. That said, if I have the nav lights on, and try to turn off just the anchor light, it will stay on, as it's meant to be on when the nav lights are on.

The reason for this is that we don't have stand-alone stern navigation lights, so that anchor light serves as both a stern nav light and solo anchor light
 
Cruising said:
I'd be interested in hearing what is the biggest seas you've all had your 280 DAs out in ? How did the boat handle the waves and how fast were you comfortably able to go ?
Thanks
Click to expand...

I'm also on the great lakes, so not a good comparison to the ocean as our wave period is crazy short. Friday night I came back about 5 miles from a concert in 3-5's at 3 seconds. When behind the breakwall it was 1-3's and we could run on plane comfortably at 20 kts. We had to run outside the breakwall for the last couple of miles and it was really sloppy, 3-5's intersecting each other, so I kept it about 6kts and took the waves on the stbd quarter. Boat handled it just fine, but doing it in the dark was a bit nerve wracking.
 
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