single issue left No Spark. ( boat cranking now, remote solenoid replaced)

scoflaw said:
Got power on the red/yellow wire? Do check the 4 wires mentioned from ECM to Dizzy. 90 amp fuse on the starter ?
This couldn't be as simple as an activated kill switch? More than likely you disturbed something when you R/R'd the slave.
Click to expand...
Thanks, and Yes,
Checked all Power to the Red / Yellow. Lanyard connections / Motor Cranks like a Champ...
Replaced the 90 amp. The 4 wires and connectors and where checked by both Mercruiser Mechanics all look good from what they said.. But going to ohm them out today.
BTW ... Everything in the box which has the Slave Replay was checked at least a 1/2 a dozen times by everyone, wires and Fuses Power in and out... connectors etc...

There where no power at the Alternator but apparently is an Exciter post ( small purple and not important as I was told )
Many of these items have Sealed connectors so I have been nicking the wire coverings to get my meter lead in there and repairing with liquid tape, Checked Grounds and Power to the ECM ect.. All looked good so far...
I Started tracing the purple wire yesterday which turns dark pink after it goes through the 9 pin plug... It goes into a large loom at the rear which is in a tight spot and impossible to get open...
 
Harness info? has anyone installed one of these OEM Harnesses, Mercruiser 5.7 single engine boat, There is no image, should I get new wire looms? or does it come with it? if not, what sizes? So, I was thinking some 1/4 inch for the two wire stuff and 3/4 inch for the big stuff?
Thanks
I guess I should start a new thread once I get the new Harnes.. this is becoming a painfully long saga.
 
The kill switch will still let the engine crank, just kills spark. I would check the 6 dizzy wires for a grounded one that shouldn't be. I think a new harness is overkill, but hey.
 
scoflaw said:
The kill switch will still let the engine crank, just kills spark. I would check the 6 dizzy wires for a grounded one that shouldn't be. I think a new harness is overkill, but hey.
scoflaw said:
The kill switch will still let the engine crank, just kills spark. I would check the 6 dizzy wires for a grounded one that shouldn't be. I think a new harness is overkill, but hey.
Click to expand...
Hi, Thanks...
Yes. we Checked the Kill Switch. It the Purple wire that goes into #5 in the large plug, 12 volts. It also fires up the gauges and sounds the alert horn. The Neutral safety Switch opens the Yellow / Red stripe to the starter... And believe me, after about 100 hours, total between me and the 2 mechanics... Now ripping out the wiring is not a fun thought...
Click to expand...
 
Hi, Thanks...
Yes. we Checked the Kill Switch. It the Purple wire that goes into #5 in the large plug, 12 volts. It also fires up the gauges and sounds the alert horn. The Neutral safety Switch opens the Yellow / Red stripe to the starter... And believe me, after about 100 hours, total between me and the 2 mechanics... Now ripping out the wiring is not a fun thought...
 
Now if I have the information that feeds into the computer Ecm J-2 can't I check what is missing as far as inputs for the Ecm to fire the coil? Attached 3 pics--
 
20180806_150001.jpg
20180806_150043.jpg
20180806_150029.jpg
20180806_150001.jpg
20180806_150029.jpg
 
Many times a resistance test with an ohm meter may not reveal the problem. Any and all involved and even remotely suspected circuits should have a voltage drop test performed on them. If the integrity of any of the circuits are still in doubt, then a load test should performed on each.
 
Good article, but he just replaced all that stuff with known working parts. I think he's back to wiring or ECM.
 
I guess its worth another go through on mine... I did swap out for a Known good Distributor. I do have the proper Resistance on the pick-up coil,,
Thanks
 
Crazy stuff.. Looks like its not an ignition problem but and electrical problem... When I disconnect the 110V Shore power the 12 v radio turns on and Off - ( the power for the Radio is directly wired to the Battery) Going back to the beginning: It all started with the remote Starter Relay burning out. The Mechanic said when he was going through the Electrical system my System Alarm wasn't working. Worked last year when my Raw water pump went out and the boat overheated. The Sump pump was also tripped. But I never saw AC voltage on anything? maybe its sending voltage into the ground side which as I have learned is how the Coil charges/discharges
I guess my inverted or wires are shorted sending power into the circuits...I did Change the Harness,,,
 
John,

You mentioned it a few times but what "remote starter solenoid" are you referring to? The starter solenoid is built into the starter.
 
Yes, the slave at the top of the motor in the control Box...
Overall its the Electrical is a mess.. Now I don't know if I screwed up something else? but the Harness went in pretty easily. There were a couple black wires were left over outside the original harness.. but there was two Ground in the new harness on both side right of the engine where the two Ground bolts are on the back of the motor...
I don't think there's anything 120 volt on the motor?
So, Hopefully fixing the 120-volt issues will stop the - turning on one switch and something else turns on. Radio is blinking.. looking up the wiring for the inverter..its original ( 1998) To be continued... if the Rain Stops
Thanks
 
Last edited:
We Have Spark! ...
To Recap: I started with No Crank and No Spark.
at the same time. CRANKING Issues was easy.. it turned out to be a Bad slave for the Cranking FIXED:

NOW The SPARK ISSUE: The original Coil and original Distributor ignition module where bad...
but after they were replaced, The Replacement Coil and Replacement Module burnt out again.
The Mechanics think possible due to an issue with the wiring and feels that the Wiring harness which i did at the last step.. should stop the two items from burning out again?
Talked over with mechanic. this type of 1997-1998
GM Delco ignition was not widely used and it's not easy to diagnoses like the thunderbolt, for example. you cant hot wire the motor like the others.
Thanks again all for your help...
 
JohnEGraham said:
We Have Spark! ...
To Recap: I started with No Crank and No Spark.
at the same time. CRANKING Issues was easy.. it turned out to be a Bad slave for the Cranking FIXED:

NOW The SPARK ISSUE: The original Coil and original Distributor ignition module where bad...
but after they were replaced, The Replacement Coil and Replacement Module burnt out again.
The Mechanics think possible due to an issue with the wiring and feels that the Wiring harness which i did at the last step.. should stop the two items from burning out again?
Talked over with mechanic. this type of 1997-1998
GM Delco ignition was not widely used and it's not easy to diagnoses like the thunderbolt, for example. you cant hot wire the motor like the others.
Thanks again all for your help...
Click to expand...

Glad you got your spark back but what was the root cause?
 
hard to say... but The Mechanics think possible due to an issue with the wiring and feels that the Wiring harness was at fault.. since it cost me additional $650 ill go with that... Now if I go on the boat later and it doesn't start...
 
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