460 DA Owners Thread

I’ll look for the invoice, took longer to get the carpet out and rework the hatches than to lay the floor. Still using it and enjoying it
Bob
Thanks Bob,
I guess my main question is this: did you use adhesive, self-stick, or floating floor (click together)? If floating floor do you remember using a material under it for sound-deadening?
I'm going to speak with a few people tomorrow and see what the consensus is today, because it keeps changing. Thanks for your help. That floor of yours really does look good.
James
 
I have the factory swim platform on my 460. Want to possibly look into putting a hydrolyic one on my boat. Has anyone on here done it after factory on the 460 and if so can you share any details on it?

Thanks
I believe that the 460's arrived at dealerships from the factory with standard platforms and then Florida Bow Thrusters sent mobile crews out to install GHS lifts prior to delivery. Do a search because a few people have commented on that.
 
The flooring was Konecto Sierra Plank, I did not put anything under the floor, it is a floating floor. In order to do it, you need to remove the chair and the sofa, not hard to do, they are just screwed down.
 
Hi guys,

I have had my boat now for 8 years. I use it frequently. Two weeks ago there was an odor that got pretty bad and it was originating from the bilge under the aft cabin bed. It was awful. It smelled like vomit and poop. I rinsed it out, poured bilge cleaner in, let it sit and rinsed several times. I the poured a bleach solution in, let it sit and flushed it out. Smell gone. This weekend, it was starting again. I am doing nothing different than what I have done every season.

I know that the sump overflow goes there. I clean the sump every so often. What else drains into it the aft cabin bilge? What would cause this? It is a very inaccessible and IMHO, a poor design. Has anyone else had this issue?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
The flooring was Konecto Sierra Plank, I did not put anything under the floor, it is a floating floor. In order to do it, you need to remove the chair and the sofa, not hard to do, they are just screwed down.
Thank you very much. Another project now for keeping the old girl looking like new.
 
Florida bow thrusters is the company. I would love one as well. They are 25k.
 
Hi guys,

I have had my boat now for 8 years. I use it frequently. Two weeks ago there was an odor that got pretty bad and it was originating from the bilge under the aft cabin bed. It was awful. It smelled like vomit and poop. I rinsed it out, poured bilge cleaner in, let it sit and rinsed several times. I the poured a bleach solution in, let it sit and flushed it out. Smell gone. This weekend, it was starting again. I am doing nothing different than what I have done every season.

I know that the sump overflow goes there. I clean the sump every so often. What else drains into it the aft cabin bilge? What would cause this? It is a very inaccessible and IMHO, a poor design. Has anyone else had this issue?

Thanks in advance for your help.


If you move the sofa forward and remove the plywood cover behind it you can lay back there. You should only see one hose draining back there and as you mentioned it’s the overflow for the sump box. The fact you say it stinks leads me to believe it is in fact your sump overflowing. It’s most likely time to clean the sump box and replace the pump (rule 2000) and switch.

It technically could be the water tank but it’s unlikely and it wouldn’t stink.


The last scenario is the salon ac condensate drain. If the pan overflows it will run back under the water tank and eventually to the midcabin bilge. Take off the end table cover and look back toward the head with a bright flashlight. You can see standing water if you have this issue.


Noflex digester is your friend in this. Sprinkle a couple tablespoons back there before you clean it up and let it dissolve.

Josh
 
If you move the sofa forward and remove the plywood cover behind it you can lay back there. You should only see one hose draining back there and as you mentioned it’s the overflow for the sump box. The fact you say it stinks leads me to believe it is in fact your sump overflowing. It’s most likely time to clean the sump box and replace the pump (rule 2000) and switch.

It technically could be the water tank but it’s unlikely and it wouldn’t stink.


The last scenario is the salon ac condensate drain. If the pan overflows it will run back under the water tank and eventually to the midcabin bilge. Take off the end table cover and look back toward the head with a bright flashlight. You can see standing water if you have this issue.


Noflex digester is your friend in this. Sprinkle a couple tablespoons back there before you clean it up and let it dissolve.

Josh
Also, hot water tank and washer leak would drain into that bilge as well if you have a problem. Don’t know that it is it but areas to check.

Your fresh water lump would be running if one of those.
 
i am replacing my anchor rode to all chain. I forgot to measure the chain Does anyone know if it is 5/16 or 3/8.

Thanks John
 
G4 is higher test the BBB. (Grade 40 versus Grade 30). I would argue you can get more chain and strength with HT, but some will argue BBB creates a better catenary effect because of its increase in weight. Look at the gypsy on the windless and it will be marked with the preferred chain and rode.
 
Just hoping everyone is having a spectacular summer!

Northern Lake Michigan has been amazing...77° today again. I have lived in this region since 1985 and can't remember a stretch of weather this good for this long! Boating has been excellent everyday.

Welcome to August and pray the weather stays the same for the next 8 weeks!!
 
Had an interesting situation chasing a loss of prime on the port engine. The problem started last autumn the week before winter haul-out and the port motor would start hard (air in the line) and stall. So I worked with a Cummins mechanic over the winter and finally got the problem fixed this spring, or we thought. In the process we replaced a couple of fuel lines, the thumb primer (fuel transfer pump) and re-built the Racors with seal kits.
With each "fix" the motor would start fine and run well in the spring. Started again next day too. Then the next week the prime would be lost (thumb primer soft) and we would scratch our heads and move on to the next thing to replace. So I have a some new parts and a few bills along the way to prove it.
The problem eventually turned out to be a loose pick-up tube on the #1 fuel line to the port tank. The motor ran well if switched to the opposite tank and we put in a new #1 line to the manifold and ran it (with adapter) to the unused generator pick-up on the port tank. Problem is that genny feeds are only to a 3/4 fuel level for safety sake but we ran it this way for a two week trip to Lake Erie in July.
I phoned the tank manufacturer, Florida Marine Tanks to explain my situation. Immediately the lady who I was speaking with knew exactly what the problem was. She said that a small number of tanks would break the weld and the fuel line would suck air. They immediately shipped their fix which was a nylon tube bonded to a female fitting that would insert into the loosened fuel pick-up and fix the problem. I had her ship two just in case but it permanently fixed the issue and it was easy to thread the tube in through the supplied bushing. Many thanks to the nice folks at Florida Marine Tanks for their help (305-620-9030, N.C.). All I needed to supply was the tank model number and they custom cut the tube.
Anyways, during the whole process I lacked a diagram of the fuel lines (there are 19 of them) and Sea Ray did not respond to my request for one so I made a diagram for my boat. Happy to share it. All fuel lines have a tie wrap label with number at each end. Sea Ray does it right.
Hope it helps someone in the same situation.
James
 

Attachments

  • Fuel Lines 460DA 2002.pdf
    317.1 KB · Views: 186
Last edited:
Is there an accumulator tank on the 460’s. have not seen one by pumps in engine compartment or behind the fridge. Could there be one behind the washer/dryer.
 
Is there an accumulator tank on the 460’s. have not seen one by pumps in engine compartment or behind the fridge. Could there be one behind the washer/dryer.

On my 99 it is behind the fridge.
 
Is there an accumulator tank on the 460’s. have not seen one by pumps in engine compartment or behind the fridge. Could there be one behind the washer/dryer.
Mine is immediately beside the water pumps in the engine room. Yours might have been removed by a previous owner when upgrading the pumps. Some variable speed pumps do not use accumulator tanks.
 
I don’t have one but could have in the past. I did upgrade the pumps to 4gpm when I bought the boat.
 
Had an interesting situation chasing a loss of prime on the port engine. The problem started last autumn the week before winter haul-out and the port motor would start hard (air in the line) and stall. So I worked with a Cummins mechanic over the winter and finally got the problem fixed this spring, or we thought. In the process we replaced a couple of fuel lines, the thumb primer (fuel transfer pump) and re-built the Racors with seal kits.
With each "fix" the motor would start fine and run well in the spring. Started again next day too. Then the next week the prime would be lost (thumb primer soft) and we would scratch our heads and move on to the next thing to replace. So I have a some new parts and a few bills along the way to prove it.
The problem eventually turned out to be a loose pick-up tube on the #1 fuel line to the port tank. The motor ran well if switched to the opposite tank and we put in a new #1 line to the manifold and ran it (with adapter) to the unused generator pick-up on the port tank. Problem is that genny feeds are only to a 3/4 fuel level for safety sake but we ran it this way for a two week trip to Lake Erie in July.
I phoned the tank manufacturer, Florida Marine Tanks to explain my situation. Immediately the lady who I was speaking with knew exactly what the problem was. She said that a small number of tanks would break the weld and the fuel line would suck air. They immediately shipped their fix which was a nylon tube bonded to a female fitting that would insert into the loosened fuel pick-up and fix the problem. I had her ship two just in case but it permanently fixed the issue and it was easy to thread the tube in through the supplied bushing. Many thanks to the nice folks at Florida Marine Tanks for their help (305-620-9030, N.C.). All I needed to supply was the tank model number and they custom cut the tube.
Anyways, during the whole process I lacked a diagram of the fuel lines (there are 19 of them) and Sea Ray did not respond to my request for one so I made a diagram for my boat. Happy to share it. All fuel lines have a tie wrap label with number at each end. Sea Ray does it right.
Hope it helps someone in the same situation.
James

James,
Thanks for this fantastic write-up. One clarification, you say that the generator feeds are only to 3/4 fuel level for safety. Did you mean to say that they are only to the 1/4 tank fuel level? If so, then this may be the solution to my issue that I've been experiencing recently. My gennie has been periodically dying while underway. My boating has been limited due to injuries suffered from an auto accident and so I've not been putting $$$ fuel in the tanks, only $.
:)
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,946
Messages
1,422,762
Members
60,929
Latest member
Henchman
Back
Top