BRIAN RANDALL
New Member
My 85 340 SD, 454 engines, needs the dripless seals replaced. Yard said the engines have to be pulled. Is this true? Any alternatives to pulling the engines?
Dripless seal replacement
- Thread starter BRIAN RANDALL
- Start date
- Mar 28, 2016
- 499
- Boat Info
- 1999 Sea Ray 290 Sundancer
2005 Sea Ray 320 Sundancer
2005 Sea Ray 340 Sundancer
- Engines
- Twins V-Drives
8.1 Mercruiser
I think if you pull the manifolds and rises on the inside of both motors... And you get a skinny guy he can do it..... I know on my boat i have 05 320 with 350s didn't have to pull the manifolds he was able to squeeze in with them still on... Since u have the bigger motors might have to pull the manifolds....
islandsearay
Member
- Apr 6, 2011
- 51
- Boat Info
- 1988 Searay 340 Sundancer, Twin 454.
- Engines
- 340-Twin 454's Mercruisers V-drives.
I have the 7.4 engines in my 1988 340, had some work done in yard on shafts. They pulled shafts back and then did the fix. I do not think you need to pull engines, but you will need to be dry docked. I have the v-drives.
Considering the dripless, not decided yet as mine are currently doing good.
Considering the dripless, not decided yet as mine are currently doing good.
Rod Buster
Member
- May 8, 2018
- 66
- Boat Info
- 1985 Sea Ray Sundancer 340
- Engines
- Twin 454 Mercruiser 340MIE : BW/Velvet 72c v-drives
I have not personally done it yet, but this can absolutely be done without pulling the engines. That's crazy and I'd be looking for a new mechanic! You should not remove the risers or manifolds either. If anything, you can remove the exhaust pipes to lay further down on the drive housing. This task can also be done in the water, you just need to make sure your bilge pumps are operational and have everything ready to go so you can swap the wraps quickly once they're removed (i.e., wraps cut to length on an angle, I think you need 3 per box).
Edit: if you actually have aftermarket dripless systems, then you don't need the wraps I mentioned above. Can you confirm you actually have dripless?
Bt Doctur
Well-Known Member
And there is another reason for the good ,old, flax packing
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,153
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
Just to be sure we understand the OP's question, if he is just going to replace the lip seal on the front of the Tides seal housing, and IF he already has the extra seal carriers on the shafts and IF there is a fresh seal in the carrier, then the seal can be replaced with the boat in the water and very little water will enter the boat. On an 80's 340DA this will be one bitch of a job and you will skin more meat off every knuckle than said knuckle has if you don't remove the manifold, riser and exhaust pipe off the inboard sides of both engines.
If, however, he is going to replace the entire seal housing assembly, then the boat has to be out of the water because the props have to be removed and the shafts slid all the way back to the shaft tube just to get the seal housing off of the front end of the shaft. There just isn't enough room to get to the underneath side of the engine to remove and replace the seal unless you remove the inboard exhaust risers, manifolds and exhaust tubes, heck there is less then 6" between the engines so there is no way on earth to get to seal. If the exhaust systems were removed it is still a 12 Advil job.
If, however, he is going to replace the entire seal housing assembly, then the boat has to be out of the water because the props have to be removed and the shafts slid all the way back to the shaft tube just to get the seal housing off of the front end of the shaft. There just isn't enough room to get to the underneath side of the engine to remove and replace the seal unless you remove the inboard exhaust risers, manifolds and exhaust tubes, heck there is less then 6" between the engines so there is no way on earth to get to seal. If the exhaust systems were removed it is still a 12 Advil job.
Jac Vanguilder
New Member
I’m looking for replacement shaft seal assembly 1-1/4” to 2-5/8”
