Head charcoal filter

JoAna

Member
Feb 10, 2018
135
San Diego, CA
Boat Info
2005 420DB
Engines
Cummins 6CTA 8.3 450HP
can someone direct me to where I can locate the charcoal head filters? Getting some bad odor when flushing - so I guess it’s time to replace (we’ve only had the boat 4 months).
 
Your boat looks like a sun bridge. If so my buddy's was on the port side as soon as you enter the bilge were near impossible to reach. He had it moved to a much easier reach.
 
Your boat looks like a sun bridge. If so my buddy's was on the port side as soon as you enter the bilge were near impossible to reach. He had it moved to a much easier reach.

Good to know - I'll be down there next week and hopefully I can find it (possibly move it to a more convenient location too).
 
Good to know - I'll be down there next week and hopefully I can find it (possibly move it to a more convenient location too).
I think he had a skinny kid crawl in the back and then work his way to the port and then forward a bit. Ugggg...
 
Your 420 should be identical to my 44. Port aft corner of the bilge. The black exhaust pipe coming from your port engine blocks access. It is right up against the hull. I am 6'4" and have very long arms. I was able to wedge my head between the exhaust pipe and the ceiling/floor after removing the ladder into the bilge, and barely reach the fittings on each end to remove and replace. Good luck!

Bennett
 
While you are contemplating the contortionism required to service the holding tank filter, consider this......relocate the danged thing. It is plumbed into 5/8" tubing with GHT fittings. Find a place up high in the bilge where you can easily access it then re-route the vent hose....just don't go down hill with the re-routing. THe filter vent line should go uphill to the filter and have no low places in the routing. From the filter, the run to the hull fitting can run down hill but never go below the hull fitting.

This adds immeasurable life to the filter because the filter media never gets waste in it. Mine is 20 years old now and has yet to be changed after I re-routed the vent line.
 
Also consider modifying the fart filter so you can open it, put in new charcoal filter material, then seal it back up. Saves a TON of money.

All that's involved is cutting the filter in half, glue on a PVC connector that is threaded so you can screw both halves back together. If overall length is an issue for your boat, remove a section of the fart filter that's about the same length as the fitting so when you're done the overall length is about the same.

Pick up the charcoal material at a store that sells fish tanks and supplies or at Walmart.

Total cost each time you have to change out the charcoal is about $2 instead of a hundred for a new filter.
 
Also consider modifying the fart filter so you can open it, put in new charcoal filter material, then seal it back up. Saves a TON of money.

All that's involved is cutting the filter in half, glue on a PVC connector that is threaded so you can screw both halves back together. If overall length is an issue for your boat, remove a section of the fart filter that's about the same length as the fitting so when you're done the overall length is about the same.

Pick up the charcoal material at a store that sells fish tanks and supplies or at Walmart.

Total cost each time you have to change out the charcoal is about $2 instead of a hundred for a new filter.

+1 however, I didn't glue on a threaded coupler. I just used a rubber Union with Jose clamps.
 
I modified one, instead of cutting it, I accessed the charcoal via the ends, used some aquarium glass filter and then used a garden hose gasket with a screen on it. Works great, nothing to fall apart and very easy.
 
There is a serviceable filter called "Captain Stinky" (I kid you not). The end unscrews, and you can simply replace the charcoal when the time comes. See it here.
 
You don’t need to cut it at all, just shake the old material out wash let it dry then fill it with fish tank charcoal media from petco, and stuff a dryer sheet plus a piece of fish tank filter mesh in both ends lasts most of the season for around $4 per change.
 
Also consider modifying the fart filter so you can open it, put in new charcoal filter material, then seal it back up. Saves a TON of money.

All that's involved is cutting the filter in half, glue on a PVC connector that is threaded so you can screw both halves back together. If overall length is an issue for your boat, remove a section of the fart filter that's about the same length as the fitting so when you're done the overall length is about the same.

Pick up the charcoal material at a store that sells fish tanks and supplies or at Walmart.

Total cost each time you have to change out the charcoal is about $2 instead of a hundred for a new filter.
This is what I do, only I use a rubber "no hub" connector instead of the glue on screw fittings. Works awesome and cheap.
 
While you are contemplating the contortionism required to service the holding tank filter, consider this......relocate the danged thing. It is plumbed into 5/8" tubing with GHT fittings. Find a place up high in the bilge where you can easily access it then re-route the vent hose....just don't go down hill with the re-routing. THe filter vent line should go uphill to the filter and have no low places in the routing. From the filter, the run to the hull fitting can run down hill but never go below the hull fitting.

This adds immeasurable life to the filter because the filter media never gets waste in it. Mine is 20 years old now and has yet to be changed after I re-routed the vent line.
I never need to change mine either, but all I do is just make sure the holding tank never reaches the "Full DO NOT FLUSH" level.
 
I have the same boat . As posted is located far back on the port waste holding tank. So hard to reach. Do yourself a favor and once your squeeze and stretch to reach it, relocate it !
I change every couple years and its now a 10 minute job.
 

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