Recent content by thenaz007

I never knew that. As I would typically run the same things I would just flick the left and right side DC master solenoid rocker switches in the galley panel and leave the individual switches generally alone. I think when I changed the starboard rocker switch previously I fat-fingered it and...

OK I see it has been one year and, once again, I need to use the emergency crossover to start the Port side. I am also having trouble with my Starboard DC Rocker Solenoid switch in my galley control panel. I think it is probably a fuse or bad connection on the port Solenoid, and it has to be...

So I dewinterized and started my 01 340 Sundancer without the crossover and my head and water pump were working. Now a week later I have to use the crossover to start my port engine (replaced port solenoid and cleaned all connections on electrical path last year), and I have no water pump...

The solenoids inside the panel under the hatch get sticky. I got another year out of one by actuating the solenoid switch on the outside of the panel like 50 times. Then I actuated the Starboard DC panel switch (actually the same switch but in the galley panel) like 50 times. You can tell...

OK I changed the Port battery Solenoid in the e cabinet on the bulkhead between the engines. The engine starts normally without the emergency crossover, and I can play loud music, etc. from my port electrical bank without resetting fuses. Two bolts removed the fuel water separator assembly on...

So I go to the boat today and the Port starts without the crossover for the first time this season. All I did was actuate the Port bank solenoid about 20 times the previous visit and install a new battery charger Pronautic 40Amp 3 bank. The batteries all read 13.4 V and 600+ CCA before...

Thanks everyone! I am on my 7th time ONLY cranking the Port with the Emergency crossover switch, this time the engine will immediately start and run. Once was a bad battery (now load test all batteries first thing). Once was slightly out of neutral, once was key or switch turned off in cabin...

My '01 340 requires the crossover switch to start the Port side even though it has a brand new battery on that side (?). I recently tested all the batteries resting voltage / parasitic draw, alternators, charger, connections, etc. and everything seemed to be fine. I do have a sticky solenoid...

I replaced the port solenoid today with no change. I am starting to think there is a path from the port starter or alternator that is suspect - engine ground, 50 and 90 amp fuses, etc. that defeats the port DC when compromised... Just the connections between the fuses, starter relay, and...

OK I DO get port DC in my cabin panel when I jump the port engine with the parallel switch and it is running. I switched the port and starboard batteries - made no difference. I also swapped out the cabin port DC switch and made no difference. So the port battery isnt getting to the starter...

I agree. It seems to either be the port battery disconnect under the hatch (or associated connections in that fuse panel) or the one in the panel in the cabin. The port engine will run jumped off the starboard side, but I still didnt have any port DC power at the cabin panel. I did have an...

Nothing tripped in any panel (Cabin, rear hatch, or under helm).

Voltage gage on panel in cabin reads zero DC on Port, but full voltage on Starboard.

Absolutely zero port DC power in cabin. Breakers in panel are on, chargers on, shore powers on. Two 2017 batteries on port side measure 12.7V, 2018 Starboard reads 12.8. Read 13.7 V with charger and 13.8 volts idling off alternators- only. Pulled one port battery and load tested fine...

It is the production Raymarine. The dealer wants a fortune for the cable. I am wondering about trying to find the cable myself and run it, but it is not obvious how it fishes from the arch along the starboard side.