Recent content by swift1

Batteries should read 12.6-12.8 when all off, and around 13.4 - 14 V running. You are not charging at all- corroded connections at alternator or you need to replace it. I finally had to do mine up in the Islands myself after the mechanic kept saying "oh it's just the gauge". The folks at IMC...

One galley switch is 12V galley only light, second switch is 110V Fluorescent lights.

I have never seen a Y valve either on my '95. For dockside pump out through hull has to be closed; Start the pump, prime the pump hose by dunking in the water, close valve, then insert in deck fitting and mine empties. If the macerator pump won't empty through hull you probably have a clog, or...

when you hear someone say rod knock , they mean connecting rod (crank to piston) not push rod to valve train

It is a good habit to wire the pin closed with stainless wire from your friendly neighborhood marine store to be sure it won't back out

I am voting for the single ( and did with my 290) Access is hopeless with the twins, and the holding tank shrinks to 13 gals. which you don't notice until after you bought it. True the alphas are in fact half the cost of the B3 to replace, which is good if there are two of them. Check out...

Hey Sparky, Believe the 1.8 MPG figure; I get around 2 MPG lightly loaded in my 290- those of us with single engine and B3 do burn much less than you with (any) twins.

My Mercruiser alt does the same thing-takes a moment and higher revs. to "wake up" and charge; the mechanics say this is normal and designed that way and not expected to give full output at idle (would overheat with fan on pully going slow)

Ditto on the 6v golf cart batteries. Aside from the points made above, they're deep cycle- designed specifically for the use you're contemplating. 8D batteries are for engine starting- not deep cycle. __________________ THe 8D's can be cranking OR deep cycle for house loads. Read the label

Regarding water low in aft cabin, the float switch in the shower sump can go bad; the new complete assembly had a sticker saying call this number for a new float switch(instead of the whole unit) oh well. I love the single engine for the access; the twins with a gen set looked like a horror...

My 1995 has a sticker saying don't use it; the older hoses and gaskets are not made to handle it. If you are running the boat often and using it up, the water/fuel won't separate like when stored(over three months) The Stabil is a waste of money if you are burning the fuel promptly.

new cable and controls fixed mine after replacing the "third" lower cable didn't.

Those gaskets are very skinny at the webs on those 4.3's Yes they should be pulled by 4 years or sooner if any leaks/rust showing. Last time for me on a 350 V8 it was about $ 2200. for two manifold,risers,elbows at an independent (merc) shop. Much cheaper than water in cyl. which does not...

Flush the lines a lot after you tie up the boat with fresh water. You don't want to marinate the hose in "stuff". Pull a panel if you need to, wipe the discharge hose with a clean damp rag, smell it, and if that is your stink you should replace the discharge line. Like I need to do on my 1995.

Mine leaked at the remote oil filter line, had to have one made. very hard to reach, he had to cut down a wrench and install blind