winterizing my boat this year. I've got a 99 270da with a raw water cooler 454 MPI with a bravo 3, which means my water comes in through the outdrive, through the engine mounted raw water pump, through an oil cooler, power steering cooler, and cool fuel, then into the thermostat. I see a lot...
You really have to isolate it first. Put her in the water, dont turn on the motor, and take your flashlight and look everywhere for water. If you're getting 2 gallons every 30 minutes, you should see a fairly steady leak if its not engine related. If you keep it in the water for 30 mins and...
This might actually make total sense as the last time i went out, i had a bit of tan sandy/coffee colored water in my bilge. I thought it was just dirty water from when it had last rained and some got in the bilge. Guess its time for me to check the power steering system ugh.
Feels totally normal on plane. Just weird to never feel any weird vibration/shimmy/jitteryness in my steering wheel before, and have it show up randomly
Took the boat out yesterday and everything seemed totally fine. Started her up to head back, no weird engine noises or any noises in general, but as we were heading out under low throttle (no wake speed under 6mph) the steering wheel had a weird shimmy every time i turned it. If i was just...
99 270da here (9.5ft wide beam) with 7.4L MPI and BIII with 22p props. My WOT Rpms is 4200-4300 and top speed somewhere around 35-36mph depending on how clean the bottom is. Hopefully that gives you at least a little reference as to what you're looking for
Actually scratch that. I didnt see you have carburated not MPI. If i remember correctly based on previous posts, the 160 thermostat is for EFI/MPI, and the 140 is used on the carbureted 454s.
Ended up 100% being the control box. Replaced with SPA20697 which is the updated replacement and it fired right back up. Just need to tidy up wiring and I’ll consider this one solved
I’m going to have to go this route, but I was trying all other options because the amount of lead I have left is minuscule so if too much goes, I can’t reach the control box anymore
But, this is what I’m gonna have to do
Problem - I’m replacing my windlass solenoid control box, and the obsolete version has M14 nuts for the positive terminals and M10 for the negative terminal. Newer version replacement has all M14, which means my negative cable’s ring terminal is too small to fit over the post
Solution - I can...
As i'm researching this, stupid me missed one of the most obvious ways to test this. Pull the source 12v large cable off the control box, and instead of touching the M1/M2 motor terminals, touch either one of the terminals at the control box, which would in effect bypass the control box. If i...
99 Sundancer 270da. Need some input here on people who have worked on their windlass. I have a Lofrans Marlin windlass that was giving me trouble last season, but seems to have quit all together this season
Last season, the up function was intermittent. Sometimes it would respond no problem...
Looking like its getting close to time to replace my ShurFlo fresh water pump. It wont shut off once i turn the dash switch on, and I havent found any leaking lines, so i'm thinking its the pressure switch. Its fine for now since i can just turn the switch on and off when i need to use the...