Thanks for the post. I need to replace the socket for my relay too. Any idea what gauge the wires are? I will need to extend mine since the harness wires are so tight. Also, what crimping tool did you get?
Thank you for the assist. Looking forward to having my boat running again.
The fuel pump relay in my engine wiring harness had a connection issue that melted the plastic around one of the pins in the block that the relay plugs into. I am familiar with crimping and repining and would like to save costs by just replacing the block and pins. Does anyone know where I can...
Did the same thing. Works, but a long run. Also be aware that the cable running through the anchor rode compartment will be exposed to whatever comes up on your anchor rode. May wNt to invest in some protective tubing for the hdmi cable and make sure to tie it in tight to avoid getting it...
Just moved from the Puget Sound to Wisconsin for work. The boat is still on the Puget Sound. Just wondering, aside from bottom paint and zincs, what else would need to be done when moving a boat from salt water to fresh water?
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Check with Great Lakes Canvas. They make the stock SeaRay canvas and may have what you are looking for. They often have sales too.
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For the stereo, make sure the button on the dash (stud top rt) is on and both switches below the light switches inside the cabin door are on.
For the underwater lights, mine are wired to the aft accy switch on the port dash panel.
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I used Dr LED bulbs http://www.westmarine.com/buy/dr-led--white-surface-mount-g4-led-replacement-bulb--12029666?recordNum=15
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I used Dr LED bulbs flat disk with 2 sets of pins(just clip off the set you don't use). Works great with variable voltage. LEDs cut my power usage at anchor tremendously.
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My seats are tearing where the stitching is. Anyone do a temporary repair and what did you use? I can't afford to have them reupholstered right now.
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