The new trim gauge worked. I guess the test of shorting the sender post to the ground post and seeing if the needle moves doesn't necessarily mean that your gauge is good after all.
LOL!! I think the word "terminology" is being kind. I figured I would probably lose some people trying to describe what I was doing.
I know the timing indicators you described. Mine were not perfectly aligned, they were off by about the width of the mark. When I aligned them perfectly it did...
I did some testing this evening and believe I may have two problems.
The trim sender wire runs through the transom and has two barrel connectors in the engine compartment that plug into the connectors labeled Chassis Ground and Analog Trim. I unplugged those and connected the positive terminal...
So if I combine what Thornton69, scoflaw, and ttmott said, I should set my multimeter to ohms (it's auto-range so I can't select 200 watt range), disconnect the sender wire from the back of the gauge, touch one probe to the sender wire and one to the gauge ground. At full down trim I should see...
Yes, I should have said multimeter. Thanks for the details. I'll try it this evening.
And yes, I think I know about the timing mark on the sender. When you pull the puck off the outdrive, around the hole where the asterisk-shaped hub sticks out, there is a small mark at the edge of the hole...
So to test that, do I stick the voltmeter probes to the sender wire and ground wire behind the gauge and check voltage while the trim is raised up and down?
I've been trying to diagnose an issue with my trim gauge. The gauge hasn't worked since I bought the boat about 18 months ago. It reads down all the time.
At first the trim up didn't work, only the trailer switch worked to raise it.
Last year I replaced the senders when I did a bellows job...
I've been trying to diagnose a problem with my trim gauge not reading correctly. I was back at the trim pump and noticed that the nut holding the fuse where the battery cable connects to the pump was loose. So I disconnected the battery cable from the fuse connection and tightened the nut...
LOL!! I know the feeling. I’m basically an IT guy who has just enough knowledge and tools to tackle something with cars or boats, and usually end up throwing tools around the garage and making up new cuss words.
Thanks for the replies everyone. It's not drive lube. Mine has the reservoir under the hatch to monitor it. Drive lube is good. I also once tried unplugging that sensor to see if that stopped the beeping and it did not. Impeller is good, I replaced it last winter when I pulled the lower unit...
Just FYI for everyone, this problem continued even after replacing the IAC and muffler. I ended up having the fuel pump replaced. It wasn't keeping pressure up once it got warmed up. The mechanic said the old pump was down low on the port side of the engine. They replaced it with a newer style...
2002 Sundeck 220 Mercruiser 5.0 MPI. Boat runs fine but will usually start getting the 2 beeps per minute alarm. Sometimes it will stop for a while, but it eventually comes back. It may happen at idle on the flush kit, at idle in the boat dock, or at speed. Sometimes I just turn the key on...