Recent content by CaptKirk

Gentlemen, Problem has been solved. The slave solenoid was defective. I went out and made sure I found a direct replacement for it and we i tested it using the continuity test i got a positive hit. The replacement is not easy. You need to bend the tabs off the backing and remove the solenoid...

Update on the switch. Had time this past weekend to check the grounds. All the grounds appeared secure and clean the test say they are good but the systems at the slave still indicate a ground issue. Still using the by pass switch to start the motor but other then that no other systems.

Eric. I hope you get it sold. Nice boat!! Good Price!! To bad I'm not in the market I would consider it!

Update on Slave issue. All my slaves were acting up this weekend. Each trim slave and the starter slave had issues. I got to the lake and the down trim wasn't working. After several attempts it went down. As the day went on the trim slaves began to work ok but the starter slave never work. I...

ok i know you posted that test but i'm not sure how to make my meter test that. Very simple meter with a non-electric person operating it.

Ok got impatient crossed A and B with screw driver. Engine running. Started easy for the first start of the season. My wife would have a fit but i think that might due for the first trip out till i figure out slave issue. JUST DON'T WANT SPARKS

Scoflaw, that is the test i described in #56 battery to C. it wont close the circuit between A and B. if i go hot to B engine cranks. the copper plate inside the slave is not making contact across A and B to supply 12 volts to the starter solenoid.

This has got to be the problem. It must not have enough amps (even when jumped) to close the circuit between A and B. I wonder is i can find some sort or jumper switch that i can connect across A and B up to the driver seat that i can use like the starter switch for now.

ok this is where i am at. I jumped hot terminal (Battery) to "C". Activated solenoid but got no continuity across A and B. 12.3 volts. I went from switch to solenoid and it carried 12.3 to 12.1 all the way. When i energized the solenoid with the ignition switch it dropped to 9.35 volts. I took...

I replaced the starter on my 2000 180 br and it wasn't easy to get to the retaining bolts but it can be done. just got to be a contortionist.

I think you on right on track. I'm only getting 9.3 volts at the slave. I need to by pass switch to see if it's the switch or the battery.

Scoflaw, good suggestion. If that works then it might be low voltage from the ignition switch to the solenoid not allow for full contact inside the solenoid.

FL Boater66, I did read your post. Thank you! I did all those test last night. We are in agreement it indicates another bad solenoid. I'm just trying to make sure I'm not missing something else that others may have tried or found. I am going to replace the solenoid when I get home tonight. I not...

I pulled the old solenoid apart to see how it works. Very simple concept. Copper plate is pushed against both 12v (Hot) terminal and the delivery terminal allowing the 12 v to pass to the starter. There's only one thing that can stop the flow of current.....improper contact or no contact. What...

Bt Doctur, B is the yellow/blue that goes to the starter solenoid small terminal. A 12.3 v constant. Jumped A to B starter spins motor turns over. C is feed from Ing switch D is the ground. Slave clicks when Ing is turned to start but will not spin starter (no power terminal B/small side of...