Recent content by bluebelly

Sounds like the latching solenoid for the port is bad. Try this: Kill the Starboard battery switch in the cabin and leave the Port battery switch on. Now try to start the Starboard engine using the crossover switch. If the latch is bad you will get no power to the Starboard engine to start it.

Hopefully somebody can help with some ideas here. I am working on this boat that has 8.1 horizons with 450 hours on them, boat is 8 years old. Engines have run perfectly since new. The last two times out I have had a problem starting the port engine after anchoring for a couple hours...

Do you know what size your generator is? If you have the 10kw kohler model then the boat certainly came from the factory with a separate dedicated battery to start the generator. If your boat was equipped with the 7.3kw model then it may share the starting duty with the port side "house"...

Also check to make sure that you have good strong battery power to the engines. A battery with a very bad cell and voltage output can cause this problem.

This may sound crazy but I have seen this on several Sea Rays of different models over the last 10 years and I have come to the realization that the problem comes and goes based on how full the fuel and water tanks are. I suppose the heavier the load the more pressure there is pushing the sides...

Sounds like the water heater is the culprit to me. The relief valve is probably allowing water overboard.

I believe the main problem for the OP will come down to time. As with most contracts, "time is of the essence". He said in the original post that the boat was surveyed in November. Now it is May so it is reasonable to expect some mechanical things were working last year during the survey and...

Finally solved the problem. Turns out the 90 amp fuse mounted on the starter was corroded. See this thread: http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/78449-90-Amp-starter-solenoid-fuse-melted-burned

What do you guys think of this. These fuses are off a a boat with 8.1 horizons. I am pretty sure that they looked like this since the boat was new. I just assumed the burn marks were from somebody using a torch to heat up shrink tubing when they assembled the wiring harness to the starter. Now...

The muffler was definitely in there before. I just noticed the hissing noise this weekend and decided to take a look. Sure enough the foam muffler was missing. If it got sucked into the engine is there any problem with this foam thing not Burning up completely and causing any future problems?

Has anybody discovered that their IAC muffler is suddenly missing? If so, did it get sucked into the engine intake or did it run down the 2 foot long rubber hose that goes from the air intake to the IAC valve? Is this worth investigating?

Good advice so far but how do we explain that I am getting a reading over 13 volts on the cabin voltmeter when the smartcraft is reading 9.7? I guess it could be the wiring between the starter and the engine room breaker panel which is where the starter picks up the 12 volt source?

This boat has 8.1 horizon inboards. For the last year when the engine is running the Port voltage needle at the gauge and smart craft wanders from 12.5 to 15.2. It does not seem to matter what the engine rpm is. I also have noticed that before startup sometimes the voltage on the port only...

Well just got the boat hauled out and indeed the prop nuts were a little loose. Sure enough the nuts were installed wrong. The big one was up against the prop hub instead of the little one. Got them in the right order now and hopefully I got them tight enough this time.

Re: (Photo links added)WTS custom bedding for 420/44 sundancer and maybe 390/40 sunda Back in town, still for sale. Sorry I missed a couple of your messages.