Recent content by Atalla

It is almost certain that you have "gunk" everywhere. Assuming you found the primary blockage and you can get water through to the exhaust after the new pump goes in, you're probably going to want to run that descaler flush through the whole raw water system. That heat exchanger into the block...

You might find it easier to remove the electric fuel pump first...those angled fittings are kind of a hassle to remove in-line.

I painted it. Mine came unfinished and I painted it with some high-temp engine paint.

Some things really are invaluable.

In hindsight, I probably did not need the new pump. Had I cleared and cleaned all fittings of debris and then did the descaler flush, I bet I would have been all set.

I bought here - https://www.partsfortechs.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1953 But the current price is $300 higher than I paid 2 years ago.

You could still have junk in both the pump and exchanger. I ended up buying a new fuel pump but still had to flush the exchanger to get the raw water flow that others were accustomed to seeing. It would be a little funny if you pull that fitting off the top of the fuel pump and find an impeller...

You are pumping liquid into the raw water intake and no water comes out of exhaust? That’s bad news and certainly explains LOC. You’re overheating in minutes. If you follow the raw water line, you can connect the pump hose to the inlet for the high pressure fuel pump and then the heat exchanger...

No. You are going through the raw water system to clean out the heat exchanger. Into 20 and then out of 18. The bucket with the pump can just sit under the tail pipe at 18 and pump the descaled back into 20. Leave the coolant be. It’s the raw water meant to cool the coolant that is where I’m...

If your coolant overflow bottle is filling that fast, I’d bet your heat exchanger is junked up and not getting adequate raw water flow. Check out post #184, 186, and 190. Flushing the heat exchanger.

Thanks for the input. Based on model number on the label, I'm relatively certain I have one with the self-sealing valves. Given it is the triducer, I presumed it was responsible for all both sensors and the paddlewheel. Or do you have two triducers, both with the paddlewheel and temp sensor and...

Newbie (at transducer service) question. My depth sensor has become unreliable at best. Getting readings of 7' in the middle of the Puget Sound at times. Is this sensor serviceable in the water? I take it, from reading the manual, that the paddlewheel insert is removeable due to a self-sealing...

How do you guys figure out which charging profile to use? I’ve staring at the documentation for my AGMs and can’t figure out what would inform one vs the other or a custom profile. It appears the thresholds for the two profiles are all within the ranges specified by the battery itself. I’m sure...

Thanks for all the tips! I do have a breaker for the charger on my 2007 and proximity is about 4’ as well. I will look into that 50A Sterling. Seems like a good choice and appreciate the info on it.

That's what I like to hear! I had been thinking of the ProNautic. Thanks!