1998 SR 290 Sundancer - Little Ducky II

Fresh water pump repair.

I went ahead and bought the entire bottom end of the pump vs just replacing the inside diaphragms. If you buy the parts separately it's more $$$ than buying the entire bottom end assembled with a new pressure switch and all so it was a no brainer.

So off with the old and on with the new. Instead of using crimp connecters I soldered with heat shrink to make up the connections. It just looks better. I'll use crimp connectors tomorrow when wiring the pump back into place because I'll probably be in my head during the reinstallation.

I had to disassemble the old pressure switch to remove the 2 red wires to reuse to wire up the new one. Even with the slight design change from old to new it was straight forward.

Following your thread with interest. These are the kind of details that will benefit any model. One thing to note, however. Its generally not recommended to use solder connections on a boat. Solder connections are brittle and generally don't hold up well to the vibrations.
 
Today was maintenance day.

First time changing oil on a boat for me. I usually would get the marina to service my previous 260 DA but since I went into this older boat purchase as a DIY Fixer it was time to get a bit dirty.

The 5.0's got some new life blood and filters as well as the generator and topped off my drive oil monitors.

First off "Well that was fun" no one ever said when they had to change the oil and filter on the generator of a 290 DA.

I used the TopSider oil extractor which worked out very well including the generator.

The engine oil filters were a bit of a bear to remove..... seemed like Hercules must have tightened them at the last change or they just got tighter as time when on. The filter on the generator was a PITA to get to and change. Had to do it all by feel since you can't see it.

I used a oil filter pliers on the larger engine filters and had to use a filter socket for the generator.

TopSide extractor removed a good 5 qts of oil from each engine which supposedly only holds 5.5 qts. I removed the oil from the generator through the drain tube and then after removing the dipstick I sucked any remaining from the hole which was not much as all.

I know it will be a bit easier next time but boat mechanics really do earn every dollar.

2v2J1pzRGxf2ik.jpg


No one in their right mind engineered the generator for maintenance.

2v2J1DEJGxf2ik.jpg


Had to use this on the generator to remove the filter.

2v2J1DEvyxf2ik.jpg
 
Last edited:
Today was maintenance day.

First time changing oil on a boat for me. I usually would get the marina to service my previous 260 DA but since I went into this older boat purchase as a DIY Fixer it was time to get a bit dirty.

The 5.0's got some new life blood and filters as well as the generator and topped off my drive oil monitors.

First off "Well that was fun" no one ever said when they had to change the oil and filter on the generator of a 290 DA.

I used the TopSider oil extractor which worked out very well including the generator.

The engine oil filters were a bit of a bear to remove..... seemed like Hercules must have tightened them at the last change or they just got tighter as time when on. The filter on the generator was a PITA to get to and change. Had to do it all by feel since you can't see it.

I used a oil filter pliers on the larger engine filters and had to use a filter socket for the generator.

TopSide extractor removed a good 5 qts of oil from each engine which supposedly only holds 5.5 qts. I removed the oil from the generator through the drain tube and then after removing the dipstick I sucked any remaining from the hole which was not much as all.

I know it will be a bit easier next time but boat mechanics really do earn every dollar.

2v2J1pzRGxf2ik.jpg


No one in their right mind engineered the generator for maintenance.

2v2J1DEJGxf2ik.jpg


Had to use this on the generator to remove the filter.

2v2J1DEvyxf2ik.jpg

Generator is a nightmare. I took the heat exchanger off this year to get the old zinc out and flush the coolant. Lots of cuts on my hands after that one.
 
Had another fun weekend. Kind of.

2 weeks ago while I was changing oil I noticed one of my batteries were leaking. So this weekend I went ahead and changed out all 3. The batteries that were on the boat were Group 29 (13" long) and for some reason Group 29 must have been superseded so I went with Group 31 which is also 13" long. The old batteries were 4 1/2 years old so they were probably on borrowed time.

I was originally going to replace with flooded lead acid but could not find what I wanted locally and batteries plus convinced me to replace all 3 with Deep Cycle AGM's.

Installation was a PITA. Whoever decided to squish all 3 batteries together where you have to drop them in through a little access hole should have to walk the plank. I think I left behind a bit of DNA on every sharp object possible. Especially that dam hose clamp on top of the generator.

Once installed I reprogramed the ProMariner to AGM and all went well....... I never saw so many green LED lights before. ;)

One thing I do need to correct is my time estimates to do boat maintenance ...... what should have been an hour job was like 4. I guess I'm going to just x4 what ever pops into my head when I think about doing something.

After cleaning up the battery area and wiping down the trays and everything else I could reach.......Don't they look pretty.

2v2JfzdWVxf2ik.jpg


I modified some terminal covers for 4 connections and used tie wraps to secure but what kind of terminal covers can I get for the daisy chained battery?

EDIT: I ordered some "flag terminal" covers for the battery connections that are unprotected in the picture above. These are designed just like the terminals themselves. I'll still have to cut them and use tie wraps to secure but this will be one more thing corrected from the pre-purchase survey.
 
Last edited:
LD and I took the vessel out for a spin today. At 47 degrees and sunny we intended to just cruise at cocktail speed until the little rascal said duck it and throttle up.

Burrrrr I think I froze my face off. ;)

2v2JtQ9E8xf2ik.jpg
2v2JtQ9aFxf2ik.jpg
 
Just ordered up a little interior sound upgrade. Should be at the house today and hopefully installed in the boat over the weekend.

Polk Audio DB 652
DB+ Series 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers

$60 at Crutchfield.com w/free shipping.


g107DB652-F.jpg
 
Nice, for the cockpit? If your arch speakers are OEM be prepared to cut a little fiberglass back. My 6.5"s didn't quite fit when I replaced them
 
Nice, for the cockpit? If your arch speakers are OEM be prepared to cut a little fiberglass back. My 6.5"s didn't quite fit when I replaced them

These are going in the cabin. The 20 year old paper OEM speakers are a bit tired. The radar arch speakers were already changed out by the previous owner to some Kenwood Marine speakers and they sound pretty good. I would like to add a little amp for the arch speakers for a little more punch but that will have to be in the future. When I'm afloat I don't need to be entertaining others so I don't need loud..... I just need clear.
 
That's interesting I'm almost positive my arch speakers are amped and the lower cockpit speakers are on the head unit. Maybe someone flipped the wires at some point.
 
That's interesting I'm almost positive my arch speakers are amped and the lower cockpit speakers are on the head unit. Maybe someone flipped the wires at some point.

If the amp is still in the boat where would it be?

The boat had a newer marine Clarion head unit installed with a helm dashboard remote. Since the 6 disc player was removed I have access to the wires and nothing is currently hooked up to the Pre-Amp outputs. If the amp is still in the boat that would be a great upgrade for the arch speakers if it is still in working condition. Currently if I have all 6 speakers playing and at a higher volume they will cause the head unit to "clip" out and power down.
 
Behind the power panels. Take the two phillips head screws out at the top corners and they hinge down. Mine is down in that compartment
 
Behind the power panels. Take the two phillips head screws out at the top corners and they hinge down. Mine is down in that compartment

I looked today....nothing there except a bunch of wires and a XM receiver. It could have been removed at some point in it's lifetime. Since the CD changer is gone and there's a little shelf I will mount the new one there when ever I get around to it.
 
New speakers installed.

I had to do a minor modification with a pair of side cutters and remove the tabs to make the speakers fit ....... not pretty but it did the trick. Used the OEM speaker wiring since it looked very good. They sound much better then the 20 year old paper speakers. :)
2v2JkhkQ3xf2ik.jpg


2v2JkhkHMxf2ik.jpg

2v2Jkhkwzxf2ik.jpg

2v2JkhkA2xf2ik.jpg
 
Well the Little Ducky turned into a lame duck tonight. :(

Port engine will reach 2500 RPM with some forward propulsion then the RPM's will sky rocket and then no more go. I'm thinking (and hoping) the little rubber bushing inside the prop is slipping. There was a bunch of debris on the water today but I didn't hear/feel any impacts so who knows. No other odd mechanical sounds ..... engine and tranny run and shift like normal.

Has anyone ever had this happen? Do you think along with a piece of a 2x4 I could remove the prop, replace the bushing and reinstall while swimming?
 
Well the Little Ducky turned into a lame duck tonight. :(

Port engine will reach 2500 RPM with some forward propulsion then the RPM's will sky rocket and then no more go. I'm thinking (and hoping) the little rubber bushing inside the prop is slipping. There was a bunch of debris on the water today but I didn't hear/feel any impacts so who knows. No other odd mechanical sounds ..... engine and tranny run and shift like normal.

Has anyone ever had this happen? Do you think along with a piece of a 2x4 I could remove the prop, replace the bushing and reinstall while swimming?

Sure sounds like a bad hub. I’ve done props plenty of time on ours in the water. It will be by feel, as they don’t clear the platform, but not bad. Do one piece at a time during both removal and install.

Look closely at the hub when you pull it. Often you’ll see the rounding on the leading edges if it spun.

You can do the 2x4 thing but when the prop nut was really tight one year I just put it in gear to lock on the dog and used motor conprsssion
 
Sure sounds like a bad hub. I’ve done props plenty of time on ours in the water. It will be by feel, as they don’t clear the platform, but not bad. Do one piece at a time during both removal and install.

Look closely at the hub when you pull it. Often you’ll see the rounding on the leading edges if it spun.

You can do the 2x4 thing but when the prop nut was really tight one year I just put it in gear to lock on the dog and used motor conprsssion

I'm going to putt putt to a close swim area today and do some looking and feeling and might as well do some scrubbing on the outdrives and props.

Until repaired cocktail speed it is. :cool:
 
I'm going to putt putt to a close swim area today and do some looking and feeling and might as well do some scrubbing on the outdrives and props.

Until repaired cocktail speed it is. :cool:

From what I’m told couplers generally just let go but did you notice the engine temp while the revs were shooting up? If it was he coupler you’d likely see it go up a bit since the impeller wouldn’t be turning. I’m betting it’s the hub
 
From what I’m told couplers generally just let go but did you notice the engine temp while the revs were shooting up? If it was he coupler you’d likely see it go up a bit since the impeller wouldn’t be turning. I’m betting it’s the hub


I was trying to get on plane after leaving a no wake zone at my dinner destination so I was bring the RPMs up nice and slow and that's when the RPM's shot up on the port motor and I pulled back immediately. Before this occurred I was on plane for a good 30 minutes without any issues and this started to occur after dinner when I was making the return trip back to the nest. All gauges were normal during occurrence and also during our 2 hour return trip running at 2500 rpm.

I'm glad no other mechanical sounds occurred but I'll start with things I can work on and then turn it over to the maintenance folks otherwise. I'm on the "schedule" for a haul out and transom/gimbal replacement on this same engine so 2 birds one stone if it's not the rubber bushing. Today I'll go out and put the boat in gear before swimming and see if I can manipulate the prop by hand which should give me a good indication ..... I think/hope.
 
While swimming I placed the outdrives in the trailer mode and surprisingly it brought the props right up next to the surface so it looks very accessible.

Unfortunately I found some prop damage on the starboard side (slight bend in one blade) and a crack in the cavitation plate above the prop on the port engine. Looked like what ever was causing my problem last night got wedged.

So because it looks easy to do I’m going to change out the prop hub on both and have someone correct the bent place on the starboard prop.

You mentioned a coupler earlier. Is it something that could slip if the tranny stopped turning to protect the engine? Plastic? Rubber? And then go back to working properly after the obstruction is cleared?
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
112,945
Messages
1,422,739
Members
60,928
Latest member
rkaleda
Back
Top