260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

Picture of my AJ270 may help. 20171001_112455.jpg
 
Thank you.
Those pictures help.
The only thing I could find online were some Sailrite YouTube videos of cover installations on smaller sport boats and they were without Arches and the Bimini attachments.
I have the only 260DA at my Marina,in fact I did not come across another one all last season. Closest Sundancer with a Cockpit cover that I got a close look at was a 340DA.
I don’t plan on tackling this for at least another month or so as my 260 is shrink wrapped.

Cheers
 
Off the top of my head, from all the boats I've owned or worked on, I'd say roughly 18" - maybe a little more. If you go down to 12", I think that is too close. However, there is no "factory pattern" - they are all installed by hand. In the end, just go by what looks/feels right. Another thing to do is just copy the approximate distance from the side of the boat (camper canvas). Believe me, this isn't rocket science - just do what feels right. And... it's better to have a few extra than not enough - especially if you'll be trailering with it.

Don't put any snaps across the walk-thru area of the windhsield. Snaps hurt your heels when you step on them.

EDIT: I didn't see your post before I posted, Import. Let's look at your cleat - that's an 8" cleat, right (I don't think it's a 10" cleat)? If we look at it's length in the picture, we can use that as rough guide to the spacing. It appears that the distance between the snaps is a bit more than two cleats.

But, again, there is no "magic number" here - do what feels best.
 
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That’s a good point about not putting a snap at center of walkthrough. I was wondering about that because that’s exactly what they were doing in the YouTube videos and it did not make sense to me to put one there. Those things are a pain when the carpet is out.
Thanks
 
That’s a good point about not putting a snap at center of walkthrough. I was wondering about that because that’s exactly what they were doing in the YouTube videos and it did not make sense to me to put one there. Those things are a pain when the carpet is out.
Thanks
Yeah, those YouTube people are experts, right! :) It's amazing how some people (not you) just blindly believe what they see on Youtube - whatever happend to good 'ol logical thinking? "I saw it on Youtube so it MUST be true". And sometimes it's like a chain reaction. One person sees it done that way, then they want to make a video so they can be a star and get people to "like" them so they make a video showing the same thing. And then someone wants to install snaps and looks at videos and sees multiple videos all doing the same thing and thinks "OK, this must be the way to do it". It's crazy.... or should I say "Cray Cray" like the kids say nowadays? ;)
 
Fire Extinguisher placement. Permanent mount? Cabin mount? Looking for some suggestions, pros and cons or what you may have done different with 20/20 hindsite. Thank you in advance.
 
Yup - by the helm seat. Good place for it - easy access, yet out of the way so it doesn't get bumped. Except... in that picture... it's better if it's mounted horizontally so the mixture inside doesn't coagulate on the bottom. When it's horizontal, it's constantly being mixed around.
 
I am looking for a cruiser in the 26'-28' range. Based on specs and pictures, I think I want a 260 Sundancer - 2005 or later. I looked at a 270 Rinker that's for sale locally, but the 260 Sea Ray just seems to be a better boat. Are any owners in the Pickwick Lake area - intersection of TN, MS and AL? I would love to see one of these boats in person before I start seriously shopping across the country. I love the wealth of information found on this thread. Thanks in advance.
 
Posted this in the other 260 thread but not alot of activity there so will try here too....

So been thinking about a newer boat but not sure what to do. Haven't been looking at SR because of the options I want SR doesn't seem to offer. The main thing SR lacks in most models is the walk through windshield. We were at the marina today and walked by a 260 that caught my wifes attention. Originally I wanted to go bigger (30-32'). I started thinking over the winter that maybe we don't need anything that big. Thought about getting something similar in size but that has more amenities and maybe in a couple years go to the 30'er. I will need to save a few more years to get the bigger boat and don't really want to wait that long for the AC, windlass, pump out head, etc. Our trips are usually cut short because 1) it is too hot 2) wife won't use the porta potty because of the pain it is to empty it

Not sure on year but want to stay under $30,000 (trailer included) so thinking about 2002ish era.

Must haves:
1) walk through windshield
2) windlass
3) generator
4) pump out head
5) extended swim platform
6) AC
7) larger optioned engine (at least the 5.7)
8) trailer
9) water heater


So the questions I have are>
1) the walk through windshield. The steps are on the cabin door. Is there a weight limit? How do they hold up? I'm about 270lbs.
2) I have heard something about the 260 being very 'tippy' and hard to keep level. Always making adjustments to the trim tabs? Worse than my 1986 250? We boat on the Ohio River near Pittsburgh but might make the occasional trip to Erie or other smaller lakes
3) What is the length from the back of the swim platform to the tip of the anchor? I'm pushing the size limits for my slip with mine. Mine is just over 27' tip to tip. The other 260 is right up from me so I will probably be ok.
4) what is the typical weight on the trailer? 2 axle and 3 axle. I have a 2013 Ram 1500 Hemi that I pull mine with. I think my tow capacity is about 8700lbs. with 3.55s. I think the 3.92s with the 8 spd tranny is a little over 10,000lbs.

Suggestions/opinions?

Thanks!
 
Posted this in the other 260 thread but not alot of activity there so will try here too....

So been thinking about a newer boat but not sure what to do. Haven't been looking at SR because of the options I want SR doesn't seem to offer. The main thing SR lacks in most models is the walk through windshield. We were at the marina today and walked by a 260 that caught my wifes attention. Originally I wanted to go bigger (30-32'). I started thinking over the winter that maybe we don't need anything that big. Thought about getting something similar in size but that has more amenities and maybe in a couple years go to the 30'er. I will need to save a few more years to get the bigger boat and don't really want to wait that long for the AC, windlass, pump out head, etc. Our trips are usually cut short because 1) it is too hot 2) wife won't use the porta potty because of the pain it is to empty it

Not sure on year but want to stay under $30,000 (trailer included) so thinking about 2002ish era.

Must haves:
1) walk through windshield
2) windlass
3) generator
4) pump out head
5) extended swim platform
6) AC
7) larger optioned engine (at least the 5.7)
8) trailer
9) water heater


So the questions I have are>
1) the walk through windshield. The steps are on the cabin door. Is there a weight limit? How do they hold up? I'm about 270lbs.
2) I have heard something about the 260 being very 'tippy' and hard to keep level. Always making adjustments to the trim tabs? Worse than my 1986 250? We boat on the Ohio River near Pittsburgh but might make the occasional trip to Erie or other smaller lakes
3) What is the length from the back of the swim platform to the tip of the anchor? I'm pushing the size limits for my slip with mine. Mine is just over 27' tip to tip. The other 260 is right up from me so I will probably be ok.
4) what is the typical weight on the trailer? 2 axle and 3 axle. I have a 2013 Ram 1500 Hemi that I pull mine with. I think my tow capacity is about 8700lbs. with 3.55s. I think the 3.92s with the 8 spd tranny is a little over 10,000lbs.

Suggestions/opinions?

Thanks!

1. As you may have already noticed, all 260 Sundancers have the walk-through windshield. I am not aware of a weight limit (though I'll wager one exists), I am 220lb and find the stairs extremely sturdy.

2. I heard the same and it admittedly took me a bit to get used to the trim controls and general operation of the boat. This was due to lack of experience on my part, not any design flaw. I find the boat extremely easy to trim and typically only do so with a couple short clicks to the tabs when getting on plane. Repeat adjustments are really only necessary if people are moving excessively while under way. I too boat on the Ohio river, though down by Louisville.

3. 28' (its a 2' swim platform)

4. My 2005 is roughly 7000lbs dry; a state which it is rarely in. Trailer will run you 1200-1500lbs. When I first purchased the boat I towed it from DC to KY with my 2011 F150, 3.73 rear end and a 9,400lb capacity. While I made it, I wont be doing that again.

Hope this helps shed some light!
 
Posted this in the other 260 thread but not alot of activity there so will try here too....

I answered on the The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread since I though it more applicable because of the years you stated.

-Kevin
 
I answered on the The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread since I though it more applicable because of the years you stated.

-Kevin
Yeah I saw that Kevin. Thanks for the info. Tough decision on choosing a newer boat...lol. Trying to get as many suggestions as possible.

Yeah Trim, I tow mine with my 2013 Ram 1500 with 3.55s and 6 spd auto. I think my towing capacity is about 8500ish. My boat and trailer loaded are probably around 7500-8000 loaded but I can barely tell it's back there. My step-son and step-father have 2015 and 2017 Rams with the 3.92's and 8 spd and I think their towing capacity is about 10,500. My step-father pulled a 30' 5th wheel that weighed 9000lbs with his old 2014 Ram with no problems but that was a 5th wheel. My son might be buying a 2500 diesel soon so that would solve that issue...lol.

Good to hear about the tabs. I know I read a couple posts on here awhile back where guys said they actually felt like they were tipping over and were scared. Wife would not be comfortable with that at all.
 
We bought our first cruiser in the spring of 2014-a 2006 260DA. We kept it 3 full summers and put about 100 hours on the main and 250 on the gen.

1) There is no weight limit on the cabin door/steps to my knowledge. I am 230 and we treated it very gingerly. Never use the steps unless the door is full closed. The cabin door is the weak link on these boats. I had to replace the teflon blocks that ride on the top track and was able to do so without removing the door. The helm has to be removed to remove the door-a big job.

2) I wanted a windless, but the boat we bought checked all of the boxes except for this one. Never was an issue for me not having one.

3) Not having the generator was a deal breaker for us. We trailered the boat and loved to stay on the hook. That is not possible in the South without AC. Very few minor problems wit the gen. Basically it never let me down except for once when the coupling between the impeller and flywheel gave it up. A $13 part and 15 mins to replace.

4) All 260s have pump out holding tanks.

5) The '06 260DA did not come standard with an extended swim platform and I am not sure the earlier ones did either. It was a nice option or addition though if you wanted the room. The standard 18-24" platform served us well.

6) I have never seen one without the AC. Maybe some that were sold up north did not have them, but it worked extremely well in the southern summers.

7) Most seem to have the 5.7(350Mag). I would not have one with any less engine. Some were delivered with the 5.0 and, IMHO, that is just not enough. I would love to have had the 8.1(496) in mine. Some also had the 6.2,

8) We had a twin I beam tandem axle trailer. Our '06 weighed in around 11,000-11,500 full loaded headed to the water. I believe the dry weights changed on the '05 model. From '04 and previous, the 260s were considerably lighter. I pulled mine home with a 1500 Silverado(Z71) and never again. We bought a 2500 Duramax to pull it with the very next week.

9) A water heater is also pretty standard on the 260. Typically they are 6 gallon and work well.

Good luck in your search. If you can go bigger, I would go for it. Buy/selling boats is generally not a money making proposition....

Bennett
 
We purchased a 2005 260 July of last year. Had it long enough to get comfortable with it and started searching for a bigger boat. I really fell in love with the 260, wife just wanted more room! I have noticed that as soon as the boat gets on plane, I start trimming the lower unit. If I wait to long, the bow seamed to want to dive and the keel would steer you around pretty good. Never a issue if I trimmed soon enough. Never touched the trim tabs unless the weather and waves told me other wise. It has a 350 mercruiser and I agree with others regarding this being marginal power for this size of a boat. Not a speed boat but had to push close to 4 grand at 30 mph. 15 gallons per hour . Love the walk thru windshield. I pulled it with a 2017 chevy 1500 crew cab, long box. No problem but the gas mileage sucked. 10 mph. If you even have the slighest hesitation if this boat is big enough, go bigger now. Ask me how I know!
 
Thanks. Great info. Not concerned about a 290 being too small. I think that is the max I would want at this point and that is even pushing it for us.

Big swim platform not NEEDED but something bigger then we have on our 250 now but would want to see one first up close.
 
2018 260 - Took out again over the weekend on large lake, this boat lists to starboard bad. tried weight in back on port. trimmed tabs and drive. I can get boat tracking nice but is a constant adjustment. Yesterday we were going straight ahead with a little cross wind and the boat suddenly listed violently to starboard sending my wife, aside of me, off helm seat. This boat also has a leak somewhere into bilge. Does anyone else have new style 260, and what do you think of it? Boater for 40+ years.
 
The boat did that because the bow was too low. I had that happen a couple of times in my first season or two.

What works for me is to start raising the outdrive pretty quickly after after I start off. I keep giving it short presses on the up trim button as I come up on plane, and then a few more once I am up on plane to correct the list. Mine usually lists to port because that is the side with the fresh water tank, which is usually full. The starboard side has the holding tank, which is usually mostly empty. The trim tabs should be in the full up position until after you get on plane and have the boat 90% or more level using the drive trim.

At that point, what works for me is to use the top of the starboard tab button to lower the starboard side and raise the port side a little. Once I have it level using that one tab, I use the same tab button to slightly over-correct for the list. I then use the top of the port tab button to bring it back to level. I find that using a small amount of both tabs (NOT TOO MUCH, or you will re-create the same bow down attitude that caused your original event) increases stability and helps reduce the amount of adjusting that I have to do while under way. I might need to raise the drive a little more after trimming level with the tabs to pull the bow back up a bit.

These boats are narrow and have a high center of gravity. If your passengers move around, you will need to re-trim. If you change direction relative to the wind and/or current, you will need to re-trim. You and your trim switches will be good friends once you get the hang of it. You'll get to the point where you know how the boat feels and sounds when trimmed properly. Once that happens, you won't have any more "excitement". In my boat, I can tell that the trim is correct when I look over the side while standing at the helm and see the spray coming off right below where I am standing. I can also hear a nice, steady, quiet "swoosh" that tells me she's trimmed properly. When under way, I hit a tab button at least once every 5 minutes. It helps to remember how much of each tab I've used. You need to be sure not to always press the tops of the tab switches when you re-trim or you will end up lowering them too far as you travel. Use the tops one time, and the bottoms the next. Just remember that raising one side with up trim does the same thing as lowering the other side using down trim.

Don't get worried. In no time at all you'll get a feel for her and you won't have any more problems. I have a couple of friends that I take out on a regular basis. I let my buddy drive one day and talked him through the trimming process. When I took the helm over at our destination, he told me that he and his wife never had any idea how much "work" I was doing while driving the boat.
 
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The boat did that because the bow was too low. I had that happen a couple of times in my first season or two.

What works for me is to start raising the outdrive pretty quickly after after I start off. I keep giving it short presses on the up trim button as I come up on plane, and then a few more once I am up on plane to correct the list. Mine usually lists to port because that is the side with the fresh water tank, which is usually full. The starboard side has the holding tank, which is usually mostly empty. The trim tabs should be in the full up position until after you get on plane and have the boat 90% or more level using the drive trim.

At that point, what works for me is to use the top of the starboard tab button to lower the starboard side and raise the port side a little. Once I have it level using that one tab, I use the same tab button to slightly over-correct for the list. I then use the top of the port tab button to bring it back to level. I find that using a small amount of both tabs (NOT TOO MUCH, or you will re-create the same bow down attitude that caused your original event) increases stability and helps reduce the amount of adjusting that I have to do while under way. I might need to raise the drive a little more after trimming level with the tabs to pull the bow back up a bit.

These boats are narrow and have a high center of gravity. If your passengers move around, you will need to re-trim. If you change direction relative to the wind and/or current, you will need to re-trim. You and your trim switches will be good friends once you get the hang of it. You'll get to the point where you know how the boat feels and sounds when trimmed properly. Once that happens, you won't have any more "excitement". In my boat, I can tell that the trim is correct when I look over the side while standing at the helm and see the spray coming off right below where I am standing. I can also hear a nice, steady, quiet "swoosh" that tells me she's trimmed properly. When under way, I hit a tab button at least once every 5 minutes. It helps to remember how much of each tab I've used. You need to be sure not to always press the tops of the tab switches when you re-trim or you will end up lowering them too far as you travel. Use the tops one time, and the bottoms the next. Just remember that raising one side with up trim does the same thing as lowering the other side using down trim.

Don't get worried. In no time at all you'll get a feel for her and you won't have any more problems. I have a couple of friends that I take out on a regular basis. I let my buddy drive one day and talked him through the trimming process. When I took the helm over at our destination, he told me that he and his wife never had any idea how much "work" I was doing while driving the boat.


Thanks!!! My boat has water up front, vacuflush and grey water on port, with batteries and hot water heater on starboard. I have played with tabs and trim more today got it better, but it is a constant thing. The boat i had last 3 seasons was a cierra 245 on same lake, this boat was 2 feet shorter and just as tall, but it did not act so touchy. I wish dealer informed me that the bennet tabs could have been ordered with indicator switches which would give you a baseline (why aren't they standard on 100K boat). I ordered with bow thruster, what an excellent option for the marina i am in!
 

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