Water leaking into the bilge at rear of the engine

that would eliminate and hoses or exaust system issues.I would pull the drive to check the below for water before putting it back in . The shift cable can be visually inspected for rot ,tears, etc.
 
So I ran it this weekend on muffs only and did not see any indication of a leak while letting it run. I guess I will have to check it out the next time I have it on the water.

Is the boat run in salt water? If so, you’ll typically see some signs of corrosion on the steering lever itself if your upper swivel pin seal is in fact leaking. I watched your videos, and from the quick glimpses of the upper area, I didn’t see the tell-tale signs of water entering that high up on the transom shield. Unless you routinely fresh-water rinse this area after use, you’d see evidence of salt water. That’s a good thing that you don’t...

I had this issue on my boat and had both motors pulled to fix/replace with new transom assemblies (parts are cheap compared to labor). The P.O. used the boat in salt which only accelerates destruction of the seal.
 
So was on the boat this weekend and did not see any more leaking from the rear of the engine. Hmm but did have water intrusion overnight while moored that came up from the screws that hold the metal stairs support to the bottom of the lower deck in the bathroom sump pump area. Water is not coming from the sump pump but is coming up through the screws holding the mounting bracket for the stairs. I know water is not coming from the bilge because I used wax to make a barrier between the motor /bilge area and the forward bilge area where the gas’s tank is. I hope that makes sense. Anyway. Water was coming up through the screws but there was no water in the engine part of the bilge. The only holes in the boat that dip below the water line from the gas tank forward is the front hook eye at the front of the boat. It is low and close to the water line and when there is someone in the front of the boat, it will go underwater. I need to get in there and look at the back side of the eye but don’t really know where to start tearin out the furniture up there. Where should I start? Do I start up high where the mirror is r can I get to it bu just starting where the table is stored? Any help is appreciated.
 
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I wonder if I fiberglass this area, I can keep water from making it in the front of the boat?? Are all other 240's sealed where mine is not?
 
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10 year old bellows? Time to replace, even if not the source of the leak.
 
I will change that out in the next few months while the boat is down for the winter.
Does anyone know what is under the lower sump area where those screws for the steps screw down into? I seem to be able to pull water up through one of them when using a wet/dry vac to clean the area. Not sure how to do it out or is it able to dry on its own.
 
Hi there
I had a similar leak at the transom and unfortunately it turned out to be the transom seal that had lost its shape and "flattened out" I ended up pulling the motor and replaced the transom assembly, whilst in there I noticed there was a void at the lowest point of the transom assembly where water can enter and cannot get out and potentially rotting the transom itself.
 
Had a very similar leak. Was confusing me to no end as I had just recently done gimbal bearing, boots, bellows, shift cable, trim senders, etc... Was not a lot of water just a tiny bit, the bilge pump kicked on infrequently and took care of it. When I decommissioned the boat and began digging into maintenance a few weeks ago it turns out my transom assembly needs to be replaced - some gasket is bad and it is extremely corroded. Also steering arm totally corroded. Boat was priorly in salt water.

Anyways, just some thoughts. Good luck.
 
Most likely because the seal went bad from lack of the grease fitting. It is easily installed to prevent this
 
the area between the lower sump floor and the true vee shaped hull is foamed on the 240 .
 
So I took the boat out yesterday and still have a leak somewhere. I suppose it must be coming from the transom because I can’t think of anywhere else salt water can be getting inside. Anyone have an idea on what it may cost to pull the transom and have all seals, bellows replaced that might be the problem by a repair shop? If I decided to do it myself, how hard would it be and what specialized tools would I need to get to make easier to do.
 
So the saga continues.. I think I tracked down where the water is coming from. the garboard plug looks like it was letting water get in. so far I have resealed the front hook eye and now the the garboard plug. So hopefully next weekend, I can get her in the water to see if everything stays dry. Fingers crossed.
 
OK, So I am going to drop the boat off at the marina to have them try to find the leak. I was able to track down water trickling down the inside of the rear transom, in the center, which at first made me think it was leaking from around the plug. So I am assuming it is coming from the transom area but not sure if it a bellows problem or the transom seal. When I saw the water trickling down from above the plug, the engine was off, if the matters. I am trying to brace myself for the worst case scenario of it being the transom seal. Can anyone give me some indication of the cost for pulling the engine and replacing the seal? I can start to get my wallet ready to loose some weight.
 
OK, So I am going to drop the boat off at the marina to have them try to find the leak. I was able to track down water trickling down the inside of the rear transom, in the center, which at first made me think it was leaking from around the plug. So I am assuming it is coming from the transom area but not sure if it a bellows problem or the transom seal. When I saw the water trickling down from above the plug, the engine was off, if the matters. I am trying to brace myself for the worst case scenario of it being the transom seal. Can anyone give me some indication of the cost for pulling the engine and replacing the seal? I can start to get my wallet ready to loose some weight.

It should only take about 4 to 5 hours to remove one engine.
 
I had a transom seal leak years ago on twin engine outdrives set up. I ran a bead of 5200 around the outside drive plate. Using blue masking tape to keep a clean line. Worked perfect. I know the guy that now owns that boat and 10 years later still no leak. It's also 24/7 in the water.

Hope that helps and saves you a few boat bucks!
 
I agree that I think it is probably a shift cable bellows if left unattended will sink your boat and will not show up on muffs only in the water.
 

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