1988 300 Sundancer

Hi guys, I have a contract in on a 1988 300 Sundancer. Survey getting done next week. Anything special to look for? Boat needs a good cleaning but seems very solid.

Welcome. Sorry I cannot elaborate on the Sundancer, mine is an 88 Weekender 300, but I would google it to start.

I had a weekend as well but some things still apply. I'd really check the stringers in the bilge for rot, especially around the weep holes. SR did a terrible job on those.

Here is one I have posted many times....most of this will apply:

USED BOAT CHECKLIST
1 - Drain the outdrive oil and check for water in the oil and excessive metal particulate (a pressure test is also in order)
2 – Props okay?

3 - Compression check the engine while warm. All cylinders should be above 100 and within 10% of each other

4 - Canvas in good shape? You will get serious sticker shock if it needs replaced (3 to 6K)

5 - Maintenance records available?

6 - Freshwater boat ? this would be a good thing.

7 - Have someone hold the steering wheel firmly, now try to move each outdrive side to side...does it move more than a half inch or so? gimble ring possible worn out.

8 - Refrigerator work? I put a new one in last year...$750...no kidding.

9 - Is it in the water? does the bilge have water in it? if it does, you may have a leak.

10 - Check that all gauges work. My fuel gauge did not work. I changed the sending unit in the top of the fuel tank. It was very tough to get at....very tough.

11 - When was the last time the exhaust was serviced, as in manifolds and riser inspected and gaskets changed? this is the biggest killer of marine engines and is often neglected

12 - Is the transom solid ? remove a few screws from the trim tabs.....wet wood revealed? (of course reseal with 3m 4200 when you put them back). take lots of time at the transom...any sign of moisture penetration near through hulls... inside or out?

13 - Sea trial the boat with five or six adults on board.....should reach 4600-4800 rpm at wide open throttle.

14 - When were u joints / gimble bearing / all bellows last serviced or replaced?

15 - When was impeller last changed? 

16 - Confirm A/C works...run it while checking generator (must be in water of course to run AC or generator)

17 - Trailer? what is your tow vehicle? you are looking at well over 12k lbs of boat and trailer....not your run of the mill bowrider....and a beam over 8' 6" means technically you need a permit to haul it.

18 - Check that both trim tabs work....you need them.

19 - Check that the outdrives trim up fully and back down.

20 - Toilet work?

21 - All freshwater spigots work? no leaks in freshwater system?....pump should turn off a few seconds after a faucet is shut off.

22- Look under EVERY cushion and hatch for standing water, if you find it, investigate further.

23 - Anchor windlass?...does it work? they are not cheap to replace.

24 - Watch temp gauge during sea trial ....boat should not overheat at any time....also keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge, My 454 stays between 40 - 60 psi.

.......................this is a good start for you...good luck with it.

I owned a 1987 300 Sundancer for years. It was a great boat. We loved it.
They’re built like tanks, and a properly maintained one will be as solid as a much newer boat.
Quint gave you some great pointers.
I’ll add that you should make sure that every switch, breaker, button and gauge does exactly what it’s supposed to do.
These boats are getting up there in age, a lot of the electrical connections are exposed to the weather even though they are behind and under the helm. Although they are almost always easy fixes, if a previous owner didn’t keep up with the electrical connections you could find yourself chasing gremlins.
These boats came without 12 volt receptacles before the time of cell phones, and before exotic stereos. Take a look at the wiring at the fuseblocks under the helm to make sure any added connections are tight and right. Very easy to get to. The drop down door under the steering wheel is supported by a strap that unsnaps so it can drop further. Drop it down, lay on your belly, and you’ll see what you need to see under there.
Look for signs of water intrusion in the two hanging closets, shelves under sliding side windows, and any other place you can get to. These boats can leak through the bolt holes for the bow rail support stanchions and from clogged weep holes in the tracks of the sliding windows if a previous owner didn’t keep up with those things. The “monkey fur” headliner material will help you see if there are leaks.
Make sure the sliding windows and their screens move freely.
Look for signs of a leak on the headliner under the three hatches too. Then when you’re up on the bow, tap around up there around hatches, windlass, and base of windshield with quarter to check for anything that feels or sounds like a soft spot.

JVM225 said:

I owned a 1987 300 Sundancer for years. It was a great boat. We loved it.
They’re built like tanks, and a properly maintained one will be as solid as a much newer boat.
Quint gave you some great pointers.
I’ll add that you should make sure that every switch, breaker, button and gauge does exactly what it’s supposed to do.
These boats are getting up there in age, a lot of the electrical connections are exposed to the weather even though they are behind and under the helm. Although they are almost always easy fixes, if a previous owner didn’t keep up with the electrical connections you could find yourself chasing gremlins.
These boats came without 12 volt receptacles before the time of cell phones, and before exotic stereos. Take a look at the wiring at the fuseblocks under the helm to make sure any added connections are tight and right. Very easy to get to. The drop down door under the steering wheel is supported by a strap that unsnaps so it can drop further. Drop it down, lay on your belly, and you’ll see what you need to see under there.
Look for signs of water intrusion in the two hanging closets, shelves under sliding side windows, and any other place you can get to. These boats can leak through the bolt holes for the bow rail support stanchions and from clogged weep holes in the tracks of the sliding windows if a previous owner didn’t keep up with those things. The “monkey fur” headliner material will help you see if there are leaks.
Make sure the sliding windows and their screens move freely.
Look for signs of a leak on the headliner under the three hatches too. Then when you’re up on the bow, tap around up there around hatches, windlass, and base of windshield with quarter to check for anything that feels or sounds like a soft spot.

Click to expand...

Let me ask you a question in reference to soft spots, on my 88 300 weekender I "think" i feel soft spots on both sides of the deck where the escape hatch is located. I am preparing to remove and replace the headliner this season so is there something I should look to do once the headliner is removed and have access to the under side of the deck? Thanks

If you’re feeling soft spots around the hatch you should probably pull the hatch too when you pull the headliner. Take a look at what’s going on in there and get it taken care of.
Once it’s all solid and dry again you can install the new headliner and re-set either your current hatch or a replacement.

Thanks