460 DA Owners Thread

We just got a 2004 Sundancer 460 and the door into the cabin area doesn't slide easily unless you lift the
handle to shut it. It feels as if there are some wheels that might need to be replacing. Has anybody tackled
this themselves. If so any points would be a great help.

Thanks
 
I had the cabin door apart last season when I replaced my refrigerator. Disassembly and re-assembly did not present any issues and I re-used the same wheels. Just clean the upper and lower tracks well when everything is apart and lubricate. I used a silicone spray and the door slides almost too easily now. There is a little trick to placing the first roller guide on the lower track during the re-assembly.
 
Jaws said:
I had the cabin door apart last season when I replaced my refrigerator. Disassembly and re-assembly did not present any issues and I re-used the same wheels. Just clean the upper and lower tracks well when everything is apart and lubricate. I used a silicone spray and the door slides almost too easily now. There is a little trick to placing the first roller guide on the lower track during the re-assembly.
Click to expand...
If you have a moment to write a few sentences on where you started the disassembly that would be awesome.
Just a little nervous about tearing into this thing...

Thanks
 
I had this assembly apart around ten months ago so I cannot remember specifics, sorry. But on any assembly like this (and Sea Ray is very good at this) there is always one screw or fastener that is exposed. That is not only the starting point, but it is also usually the finishing point on a re-assembly because you just work backwards when you put it back together. Unfortunately I'm two hours from the boat in storage right now or I could quickly re-count the process. There are a lot of other owners on this thread who have removed the door because of a refrigerator replacement. Hopefully someone will chime in who has access to their boat. If not, I will get back to you in a few weeks when I re-visit her at the winter storage building.
I do remember that the overlying door must be completely removed from the upper and lower tracks first. The wheel/bearing assembly trucks can be accessed, cleaned and lubricated as you go along. I also recall that the trickiest part on the re-assembly was the extreme portside screw on the lower track. Tough to get at it but not impossible. I think it took maybe fifteen minutes to get the doors off and a bit longer to re-assemble them.
Sorry not to be of more immediate help.
 
Jaws said:
I had this assembly apart around ten months ago so I cannot remember specifics, sorry. But on any assembly like this (and Sea Ray is very good at this) there is always one screw or fastener that is exposed. That is not only the starting point, but it is also usually the finishing point on a re-assembly because you just work backwards when you put it back together. Unfortunately I'm two hours from the boat in storage right now or I could quickly re-count the process. There are a lot of other owners on this thread who have removed the door because of a refrigerator replacement. Hopefully someone will chime in who has access to their boat. If not, I will get back to you in a few weeks when I re-visit her at the winter storage building.
I do remember that the overlying door must be completely removed from the upper and lower tracks first. The wheel/bearing assembly trucks can be accessed, cleaned and lubricated as you go along. I also recall that the trickiest part on the re-assembly was the extreme portside screw on the lower track. Tough to get at it but not impossible. I think it took maybe fifteen minutes to get the doors off and a bit longer to re-assemble them.
Sorry not to be of more immediate help.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much for the info. I am starting to piece together a plan. Thanks so much!

The inside door information I am sure will definitly come in handy
 
No idea why they changed from a swinging door like in the 410DA and 420DA. Just seems like the sliders are so much more trouble!
 
Phillip Gaines said:
Thanks so much for the info. I am starting to piece together a plan. Thanks so much!

The inside door information I am sure will definitly come in handy
Click to expand...

Start at the dash access panel forward of the door and remove the 8 or so screws located their. This will allow access to the top roller screws, there are 2 per wheel truck I believe. Remove the stbd. wheel screws then the port wheel screws on the outer sliding door. Carefully slide the door closed with you in the salon and remove the bottom screws for each set of wheels...slide the door open to slither out, close the door and then you can lift it off the bottom wheels and wiggle it out of the top slot. This is really the easier of the 2 panels I thought.

Apply the same steps for the inner sliding panel. Access to the wheels is now complete and you can slide them off the end of the upper track for cleaning, as well as cleaning the track. Same with the bottom...If it hasn't been done previously, you will find a lot of C R A P in those tracks..LOL

For re-assembly obviously inside door and bottom wheels first. I found it helpful to have the admiral assist since I am inside the salon on the steps and she could be outside assisting with the positioning for me to get the toughest screw in. For the top track wheels, I used a couple of toothpicks to assist in aligning the wheels with the screw holes. Be patient, you know it can be done because some body at the factory did it once already. :) Once the first door is in, the 2nd goes a lot faster!

I ended up having to do this TWICE for the same fridge!! I took it all apart to get the dead fridge out...received the new fridge, installed it, put the sliding doors back on then decided to fire it up a month later. I never thought a brand new fridge wouldn't have Freon in it...go figure!!! So yep, take it all apart again, remove the defective fridge and install a brand new fridge a 2nd time. I learned though...before installing this new fridge, I ran it in my storage condo first!!!

I wish I could say this was a 3 beer job, but it really isn't at all. You will have it done before the first beer is half gone. Have fun!
 
Great description, but you've done this twice!
I think the toughest part for me was to insert a nice bead of caulking after the access panel was fitted back. I found a beige product that matched better than the previous clear caulking. Looks good now.
Yes it's a one beer job....
 
Our 460 was just delivered from Misourri where they winterize their fresh water systems. They bypasses the hot water heater for the winter and filled with antifreeze. I have reconnected the hot water heater but when I turn it on there is no draw on the power and no hot water. Before I got by another heater any things to check for.....other switches, breakers, etc. thank you!!!!
 
Phillip Gaines said:
Our 460 was just delivered from Misourri where they winterize their fresh water systems. They bypasses the hot water heater for the winter and filled with antifreeze. I have reconnected the hot water heater but when I turn it on there is no draw on the power and no hot water. Before I got by another heater any things to check for.....other switches, breakers, etc. thank you!!!!
Click to expand...

As far as my knowledge goes it is on it's own breaker and hard wired direct to the AC panel. When I was behind it last year and had the washer/dryer out, I did not see any plugs, only the romex wire to the panel. I don't believe there is any sort of reset on the heater itself. On my last 370, my heater stopped working mid summer and it turned out to to be the heat sensing element on the front. An easy part to replace and cheap.

If you have to replace it I would love to know how you do it!! They boxed that thing in like nothing i have ever seen and it appears to me that you will be cutting the wood cabinet that sits in front of it.
 
Thanks to Doug in 401Kation, I was able to finally get some AC ducts to the helm last week. Since adding the cockpit ac last spring, getting any ducting to the helm had perplexed me and the only way I thought it could be done was to run it from the salon ac. I just wasn't sure if there was room behind the helm panel to get a 4" duct through there and behind the 240 v AC distribution panel...it was MUCH easier than I thought it would be.

All in all it took about 4 hours to complete once I had the parts in hand. The total cost of parts was $208.00 with shipping from Marine Discounters. I also had a few dollars in clamps and a 4" take off duct from Lowes.

Some side benefits that came from the project other than a HUGE amount of airflow at the helm. Apparently the main 7" duct that feeds the salon had been closed off or pinched in some fashion that reduced the airflow to the salon vents. Of course, I never knew any better as the airflow from the vents was simply what it was...not great but it kept the salon cool. After removing the duct and adding the new and re-connecting it all, the airflow in the salon was at least doubled!!! My wife came on board to check out the progress and asked, "what did you do to the vents?" The airflow was such a substantial increase that even she felt it immediately. Add to that, I inserted a 4" duct and ran it 10' to the helm then split that duct with a 4"X 3" X 3" Y. It required about 8' of 3" duct to get it from the Y to the helm locations.

I know it sounds crazy, but I am blown away (no pun intended), at how much airflow is coming from the two 3" vents. It really is astonishing and we are looking forward to not having a fan sitting at the helm all the time now.

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"Lawn Jockey" said:
I would also be too nervous to pressure wash the entire engine compartment. I use a 50/50 mix of bleach and water on the hard stuff, keeping the bleach away from any fittings, etc. or anything it would cause more harm than good by using it. Otherwise degreaser and water works wonders. Just let it soak in, wipe/scrub/rinse.
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Please make sure you flush that bleach very well. We had a friend use bleach in his engine room, it got under the fuel tanks and ate thru them. Had fuel leaking all over the bilge. Had to replace both tanks.
 
TheWolfTC said:
As far as my knowledge goes it is on it's own breaker and hard wired direct to the AC panel. When I was behind it last year and had the washer/dryer out, I did not see any plugs, only the romex wire to the panel. I don't believe there is any sort of reset on the heater itself. On my last 370, my heater stopped working mid summer and it turned out to to be the heat sensing element on the front. An easy part to replace and cheap.

If you have to replace it I would love to know how you do it!! They boxed that thing in like nothing i have ever seen and it appears to me that you will be cutting the wood cabinet that sits in front of it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. We did a friends 460 a couple weeks ago. It was really easy. We took the doors off from the cabinet then removed the back wall of the cabinet. I think there were for screws in the corners. Slid the back out which exposed the unit. There were a couple bolts mounting it and 2 wires. When I do mine next week it will post pictures
 
Hey guys quick question. We have low water pressure in the galley. Both sinks and showers in the bathrooms and up in the cockpit all have a great pressure. I took the aerator out of the faucet and cleaned it but still not near the amount of volume of water in the rest of the boat. Where should I start?
 
Hi all,

I have a 2000 460 hard top.

My question is. Do any of you have the wiring schematic for the hard top and the down lights also do you know if searay has a diagram of the open spaces to run wires within the hard top.

I replaced my down lights and cockpit lights with Lumitec-Mirage-white,red,blue,purple flush mount sku#113120.

The cockpit ones where straight forward I replace all four in ten min and they all worked perfect. The hard top down lights where a little more work. As all of you know with a hard top the down lights are 5 inch round and as far as I have searched they dont make a multi color 5" light . So I used the old fixtures and replaced the glass lens with plexiglass with a 2 inch hole cut in them and then the Lumitec lights just drop right in. The look is very clean!

This issue that I have ran into on the hard top down lights is the two rear lights work perfect however the front two flutter at every color. I know this is a voltage issue and I will replace the wiring but if you have ever looked into the hard top it is a bit of a cluster !@#% and not much sense to how the stock lights where wired. I would like to understand the grounds in the hard top as it seams those are coming up from both sides of the arch but the power wire " blue" is coming up from the starboard side.

Any help or thoughts would be much appreciated.

Jim

:One side note. Any of you wanting to do the same with your down lights. I live in Utah and use a local plastic fab shop to cut the new lens. They have the cad on file now and all you would have to do is call the with a CC# and they will ship them to you, or I could facilitate getting them done.
 
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Jim. I’m betting the fluttering is actually caused by the led not having a resistance load on the dimmer switch. I replaced my dimmer switch with a blue sea dimmer module and mine work perfectly now.

Regarding a direct answer to the diagram, no I don’t have that but I have replaced all of my electronics and mine is fairly straight forward. 2 pieces of wire loom run from the center plexiglass cover to the sides of the arch. The rear lighting for the stern and nav light goes down the center then on my starboard side.

Would love to see a pic of your mod.
 
Thought I would add a separate post regarding lighting as well. I replaced all of the small eyeball type interior lights with lumitec Mirage and they are awesome. I couldn’t find a direct replacement for the salon lights due to their size so I just replaced the bulbs. Well today I got luck and found out they are called Jamaica and ordered 2 in LED to test out as well as switch to stainless from gold.

Lastly, I replaced my engine room lights this past weekend and I’m pretty upset... upset I didn’t do this they say I purchased the boat! Originally I had just upgraded the bulbs but as you can see the new lumitec lights are amazing. Here are some pics of my work.

The pic of the generator has the original fixture with the led bulb on the left and the new lumitec fixture on the right.
 

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I used lumitec ibiza but my neighbor did his the same day with lumitec Nevis. Both are same brightness. The Ibiza May be a little more directional. I recommend either.

Also. I may put 1-2 more. It would be nice to see under the generator and battery box without a flashlight.
 
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