Repair/refinish dash panel

Slimcobra

Slimcobra

Member
Aug 14, 2017
102
Gulf Breeze, FL
Boat Info
2000 Sea Ray 210 SunDeck
Engines
Mercruiser 5.0 w/ Alpha 1 Gen 2
Ok guys looking for some more help. My dash panel is cracked/broke and the fake wood grain looks like crap. Looking for suggestions for how to repair and what should I do to refinish the panels. I thought about a carbon fiber sticker, but was afraid it wouldn't hold up. So then I figured I would just paint it, but then the question becomes what color? I kind of thought about a tan color to match the dash pad, or maybe the blue that is in the seats.
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I have never been a fan of the wood grain and I'm not sure how the black would work, but trying to fix the brake and it still come out looking good makes me nervous.
 
It is the same labor to take the gauges out to wrap/repair. I've done it once and it wasn't too difficult. For $225, you will love the new look whatever pattern you decide on.
 
Cocktail Time said:
It is the same labor to take the gauges out to wrap/repair. I've done it once and it wasn't too difficult. For $225, you will love the new look whatever pattern you decide on.
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What was your R&R process for the gauges and switches, just label the wires and take some pictures? That's the part that has me thinking, there's a lot going on back there
 
I did my '95 300 DA and I had a good amount of slack in the wire looms after cutting a couple zips ties. I ended up doing a couple gauges at a time right there on the chart table in front of the gauge panel. Took pictures just in case something was off. I would look at changing out your bulbs and backlight tape while in there. I need to do mine in this '98 400 too. Wish there was a way to get condensation out of a gauge, I have a couple that are fogged up too. They work fine just have some fogginess behind the lens. If anyone knows how, please share...
 
I ended up painting mine with a dark black/charcoal-ish speckle paint (had a slight texture to it, also). It sounds funky, but it actually came out pretty good - a nice contrast. I figured I had nothing to lose and could always re-do it again. Use paint-for-plastic for a base coat - then use whatever paint you want on top (if you don't find a p-f-p that you like). Moral of the story... use whatever color you want - if you want to change it, it's just a rattle can away.

If you're going to paint or wrap, I think you can fix the cracked piece with either epoxy or marine bondo - you just need it to be smooth.

The wiring is easier than it looks - once you get into it you'll notice that there are a some wires (blue for lighting, for example) that simply daisy chain from one gauge to another. Take pictures and label the wires with a piece of masking tape. It also gives you a good chance to clean and protect all the connections.
 
In my 290 my dash panel is 1/8"plexaglass (don't know if it original or not)and its cracked and I'm going to replace it with a piece of 1/4" lexan, cost a little more but stronger and if yours is plexaglass or lexan you can glue the piece in with super glue.
 
The originals come from tecnografix and they are site sponsors. Their work is very impressive and you can select a ton of colors/patterns. I can assure you that their panels are the best in the industry and look much nicer then fp or anything you can custom make.
 
I have been looking at hydro dipping. There are hundreds of styles and it looks like I can buy the supplies for under $50.00. So now my biggest worry is fixing the cracks. I was thinking epoxy on the back and then a body filler on the front, then sand and paint.
 
NotHerDecision said:
The originals come from tecnografix and they are site sponsors. Their work is very impressive and you can select a ton of colors/patterns. I can assure you that their panels are the best in the industry and look much nicer then fp or anything you can custom make.
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FWIW...I just ordered a new dash panel from Tecnografic, and if you "remind" them they are site sponsor on CSR and ask for a discount you can get 7.5% off.
 
Hello, I have the same panel on my 19 ft sundeck. It has no screws, but it has come loose and I can't figure out how to reattach it. Anybody have any suggestions? There are 4 screws in the back by the wiring, but they appear to be affixed with glue? Is that possible? Such a poor design. I was just going to drill holes and add my own screws. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
Scott Stone said:
Hello, I have the same panel on my 19 ft sundeck. It has no screws, but it has come loose and I can't figure out how to reattach it. Anybody have any suggestions? There are 4 screws in the back by the wiring, but they appear to be affixed with glue? Is that possible? Such a poor design. I was just going to drill holes and add my own screws. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Not "poor" - generally that works pretty darn good for a long time. At nearly a quarter century old, I don't think I would call anything "poor" if it just needs some TLC :) Besides, no screws on the outside gives a cleaner look.

Epoxy glue the flat washers back onto the backside of the dash. Just make sure to get them in the same spot so the studs line up with the holes.
 
Gouge out the crack only, smooth out with outdoor wood filler (don't enlarge the blemish child), then cover with an informational decal. "Do Not Suck Exhaust" works or a custom, "Do Not Exceed 60 MPH." Your boat started its long journey to scrap when it left the factory, don't encourage it. I would hate to buy a 2nd hand boat from an office worker who had disconnected all the wiring because he saw a pimple on the dash.
 
Scott Stone said:
Hello, I have the same panel on my 19 ft sundeck. It has no screws, but it has come loose and I can't figure out how to reattach it. Anybody have any suggestions? There are 4 screws in the back by the wiring, but they appear to be affixed with glue? Is that possible? Such a poor design. I was just going to drill holes and add my own screws. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Any adhesive is going to have a finite life. Especially in a marine environment that's subject to a huge range of temperatures. I'd say 23 years (assuming it's original) is a good run.

If you want to reattach in a similar way you have many options.
  • Adhesive sealant: something like a 3M 4000UV, LifeSeal, clear silicon sealant, etc.
  • Butyl tape: This is a type of rubber tape that remains permanently flexible and never dries out. It's commonly used for sealing hatches.
  • 3M VHB double sided tape. Very strong.
If you want to screw it down, you will need to overdrill the plate relative to the screw shank . The plastic expands quite a lot with temperature. If the hole is too tight the plate will expand and crack. Also use truss head screws with a flat back and don't overtighten for the same reason.
 
Could you try to plasti-weld it on the back side? Used to work well with motorcycle plastics on a sport bike. Then paint?
 
Polished 1/4" stainless steel button head socket cap screws carefully laid out and drilled with nylock nuts. They have pointy drills for plastic which might be a good idea as a standard drill may crack plexiglass. Run it fast but feed it fast enough to avoid melting.
 
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