Official 320 Dancer Thread

I have a parts book at home, and I am betting it applies to your engine. If you still need the numbers, provide me the serial numbers on your engines and I will see if they match my book (my engine is the same but a 2006/07)

Hi there Todd320, appreciate the offer, but we have got it handled, new manifolds and elbows arrived today!
 
Hi there Todd320, appreciate the offer, but we have got it handled, new manifolds and elbows arrived today!
Awesome. Good luck, I assume you are doing the work yourself? Would you be able to send me the parts list? This is not something I can handle, at least I don’t think I could, but would at least like to see what parts need replacing.
 
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Awesome. Good luck, I assume you are doing the work yourself? Would you be able to send me the parts list? This is not something I can handle, at least I don’t think I could, but would at least like to see what parts need replacing.
I am not doing the work myself, but I have the item numbers here from Michigan Motorz (I am not sure if their item numbers correspond to Merc part numbers, but Roger at MM was very helpful). Manifold 710-865735A02, 3" riser 86492A4, elbow 710-864591T02.
 
Curious if anyone brought one of those radar mounts that have the Anchor light attached to it.... I just installed a new Garmin radar last year and mounted it right to the arch... Don't know if the pitch is off or what type of pitch i need... Would love to hear anyone that played around with the degrees of the radar on the Sea ray 320
 
I am not doing the work myself, but I have the item numbers here from Michigan Motorz (I am not sure if their item numbers correspond to Merc part numbers, but Roger at MM was very helpful). Manifold 710-865735A02, 3" riser 86492A4, elbow 710-864591T02.
Thanks, I just stumbled across the numbers today from a different source (old RO from the previous owner) and these number match exactly. Qty of 4 for all, but only 2 Risers. previous owner paid about $4500 just for these parts.
 
Curious if anyone brought one of those radar mounts that have the Anchor light attached to it.... I just installed a new Garmin radar last year and mounted it right to the arch... Don't know if the pitch is off or what type of pitch i need... Would love to hear anyone that played around with the degrees of the radar on the Sea ray 320

Siboatguy, we just installed a Garmin system on our 340 bout midway through last season. Also mounted directly to arch. I had some radar issues with not being able to see (images) directly in front of the boat but had very good images of the rear wakes off the stern. The installer came back and put a couple of spacers on the rear mounts and problem fixed. I believe they were only bout 1/2 inch. When called with the issue he knew exactly what to do. It is my understanding that the actual pitch is somewhat forgiving.
 
MM was about $3600 for manifolds, risers, and elbows for both engines.
in general, do you need to do the manifolds on a FWC motor? Seems like my manifolds are connected to the coolant side (2 hoses, upper and lower manifold) and should not have any issues unless the block off elbow gasket started to leak and allow salt water into the manifold? Or, is it just replace manifolds while you are there, even though they cost $1500 for 4 if them?
 
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My engines are FWC, and I am replacing a engine due to a riser/manifold leak. So, YES, you need to do the manifolds on a FWC engine. My (perhaps incomplete) understanding is that the engine block is FWC, but the manifolds and elbows (at least in our installation) are cooled by raw water. I had been out running for about an hour, shut down and sat at anchor for a while, and when I went to start back up, my starboard engine was locked up tight. Salt water had gotten into the cylinders via a leaking manifold or riser, vaporized in the hot cylinder, and toasted the engine. My mechanic replaced the risers and manifolds on the good engine today, and there is plenty of rust/corrosion in the manifolds.

Again, I may have the details wrong, but my understanding is that both manifolds and risers in our boat need to be replaced about every 3 years if run in salt water.
 
My wife and I recently bought a previously unloved 320. We have many projects large and small. With the wealth of knowledge on this forum somebody is bound to have some insight into some of my issues. I would appreciate any suggestions.
1. What is the best cleaner for the white caulk. Mine is very dirty. Simple Green and a toothbrush works but there has to be something better.
2. Many of the snaps are missing from the windshield and from the boat itself. Others are there but the screw holes are wollered out. These are the snaps that hold the Bimini top on. Is there a right way to replace them other than just using bigger screws? Not sure I can even use bigger screws in the windshield.
3. Ideas for porthole curtains?
4. I cant get the fresh water pump to quit running. I have cut the feed at the manifold so I’m fairly confident it’s not a water leak problem. It seems like it should pressurize the short hose between the pump and the manifold and then shut itself off. I can’t find any leaks at the pump itself.
5. I have a speaker in the cockpit area that will not come on at low volume. Once I increase the volume it comes on and sounds great.

Thanks in advance!
 
The white caulk if your talking about on the fiberglass i would say do a compound and wax with a buffing wheel.... That should take care of that.... The fresh water pump has to be leaking from somewhere... You should have a block next to the hot water heater... Turn off all valves and then turn one at a time on.... till you hear the pump go off... then on to the next... I see a lot of people put blinds as porthole curtains.... Good luck with the boat.. Enjoy... Cant wait to make a splash again....
 
The white caulk if your talking about on the fiberglass i would say do a compound and wax with a buffing wheel.... That should take care of that.... The fresh water pump has to be leaking from somewhere... You should have a block next to the hot water heater... Turn off all valves and then turn one at a time on.... till you hear the pump go off... then on to the next... I see a lot of people put blinds as porthole curtains.... Good luck with the boat.. Enjoy... Cant wait to make a splash again....
There are only two cutoffs on the freshwater manifold. I cut off the main feed which is the line coming directly from the pump.
 
There are only two cutoffs on the freshwater manifold. I cut off the main feed which is the line coming directly from the pump.

If you hook up fresh water from the dock to the fitting in the locker does that hold pressure?? Maybe try that.... Other wise sry cant help, But i believe you def got a leak from somewhere.
 
If you hook up fresh water from the dock to the fitting in the locker does that hold pressure?? Maybe try that.... Other wise sry cant help, But i believe you def got a leak from somewhere.
Everything works fine when I hook a hose up from the dock.
 
I’ve found my dock water hookup can leak water when it is not connected with a hose. There is some sort of relief valve in it, my pump will come on and water will leak from around it. Might have an issue like this, may want to inspect that hookup while pump is cycling and see if there is a leak.
 
I’ve found my dock water hookup can leak water when it is not connected with a hose. There is some sort of relief valve in it, my pump will come on and water will leak from around it. Might have an issue like this, may want to inspect that hookup while pump is cycling and see if there is a leak.
Thank you, I had not thought about feedback in that direction!
 
My pump kept running every so often until it got worse. After ensuring I had no leaks anywhere I tried adjusting the pressure via the screw on the pump diaphragm which helped for a while until it died all together. You can try adjusting the pressure via the screw but it may be on its way out.
 
My pump kept running every so often until it got worse. After ensuring I had no leaks anywhere I tried adjusting the pressure via the screw on the pump diaphragm which helped for a while until it died all together. You can try adjusting the pressure via the screw but it may be on its way out.
Thanks, I’ve turned that screw every which way and can’t tell a difference. I’m going to look into that dock water connection.
 
Not sure if there are sub sections within the Official 320 Thread, so I'll just put this up here in the hope that it will be of help.

I've read a lot on the Forum about Kohler Genset issues, notable getting an error message that says EC72, which the manual tells me is a 'CAN Receive message Fault". There have been numerous fixes, including replacing relays, or resistors, etc. all of which was way beyond my pay grade, so when it occurred recently on our boat I called in my local expert. He's an automotive/marine electrician and not specifically a Kohler guru, but he has a basic understanding of electronic engine control system (plus he knew what a CAN was, so that makes him super smart in my book)
Anyway, after one minute looking at the genset he pulls out a couple of the fuses in the panel, replaces one that's blown and away it goes running perfectly. He suggested I replace all of them and see how it goes. I did and it runs great.
The callout fee and time spent cost me about two hundred bucks, but it was a lesson well learned.
I'd been so concerned by reading all the scary stuff that could be wrong that I never thought to check the fuses myself - dooooh. So, if you get any error message, before you call anybody, replace all the fuses even if they don't appear to be blown (actually, you can't tell with the ceramic ones as they are opaque)

The second pearl of wisdom I can leave you with - if the genset stops for some reason and won't restart, it probably needs a reset, which involves climbing down in the engine room and flipping the run/reset/auto switch off then on again.
I recently discovered that you can simulate this by turning the port battery master switch off, then back on again.
The genset start and ignition system is powered by the port batteries so disconnecting it from it's power source has the same effect as a reset using the switch on the genset control panel. The bonus is you don't have to lift the hatch and squirm about on your belly over the engines to reach the genset - not a lot of fun, especially if they've been running for a while.
 
Hey, all. New, to me, 320 owner here! Just wanted to say hi and that I am sure I will have many questions to ask this thread over time. Pretty excited to scroll through the 112 pages here and see if any of my current questions were previously answered to maybe discover answers to questions that I haven't even thought of yet.
 

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