Official 390 E.C. Thread

After suffering a leaking port side window this last fall I have finally taken the plunge and removed both port and starboard windows from the 390 this weekend with the intention of re-bedding and trying to find an improvement on the center piece that is where I think the leak came from in the first place. I ran into a small problem after removal that I would like opinions on. It looks like the windows might have been pulled before due to some clear silicone in the opening cavities, but I'm not certain. Either way, getting the old sealant separated and the frames out was a bugger. The top side of the frame wasn't too bad as I could get a sharp painters tool between the frame and the fiberglass and got it free without pulling on the frame. The lower frame was another story! After getting the frame out, there are some areas where the gel coat separated from the fiberglass and there is no longer gel coat there. What is your opinion here? Should I repair the gel coat prior to putting the frames back in or leave it as it is and re-bed and install the frames? I was planning to use 3M 5200 to seal, but wonder if 4200 would be better - opinions? Also, what ideas have any of you that have done this before tried with the center acrylic piece that is but fit to the frames to keep it from leaking? I only want to do this once, and do it right!
 
Never use 5200 on anything that may need to be removed in the future. 4200 or Lifeseal would work well. As far as the gelcoat goes I think that may depend on if it's visible or not. The 4200 would still seal the joint but not hide the gelcoat. As anal as I am I'd fix the gelcoat first.
 
Thanks for the advise on the 3M. I have only used the Lifeseal once and that was in an emergency need and the only thing the marina had on the shelf. It seemed to work well. I'm thinking I will repair the spots where the gel coat came off (I think that was from a PO) with epoxy and adhesive filler mix. None of the damage comes out beyond the frame of the window. Epoxy will be a more structural repair than gel coat and I can get it to set up and cure better than gel coat in a 50 degree barn. Thoughts?
 
Sounds like your on the right track. Good luck.
 
i just did this.they siliconed the hell out of it. Anyways my gel coat pulled in spots, I used butyl tape around the perimeter. Much better sealing qualities in my opinion. I didn't worry about the gel coat. The tape and frame cover it..
 
Aces - great idea on the butyl tape. I was planning to use that to bed the acrylic back into the frames instead of the foam. How long ago did you put the butyl in and has it proved to be water tight? Also, what did you do to seal the center acrylic piece where the sides meet the frame and the top/bottom go into the frame but don't have a "seal"?
 
i used butyl tape on the window frame to bed the acrylic as well then a new outer rubber glazing from Taylor. As far as the center piece i used more butyl tape there . I cut pieces to fill in the empty space then slide the center acrylic back in. that center piece doesn't do anything except astetics. i just did this a few weeks ago boats under wrap for the winter. I have a 65' offshore lobster boat that has nothing but butyl tape for window sealant and theres no leaks from those windows in 17 years.. I swear by that stuff.
 
Added some new bling this weekend. Two new additional 12"x12" trim tabs at the center position and new LED lights for swim platform. Can someone who has done the added trim tabs help me through the process of "bleeding" the new tabs? I assume running the pump in and out with some connection loose, but not sure what fitting this should bleed from. Hopefully not the connection at the actuator as it will be darn near impossible to get at.
 

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The tabs will bleed themselves just by running them thru 4-5 extend/retract cycles. No need to loosen connections.
 
That looks great!! I received my quote and was a bit taken back. So I decided to look for another supplier. Thankfully I found one. The only difference is the inlet fittings will be on the end of the tank. I’m ok with the location since I’m keeping the tank off the bulkhead a foot for access to the plate in the floor. I’ll post pictures when I receive the tank.
Fireball - who did you find as a supplier for a tank? What size did you find and did you end up ordering one? Can you share the cost and specs on the tank?
 
Fireball - who did you find as a supplier for a tank? What size did you find and did you end up ordering one? Can you share the cost and specs on the tank?

No prob gdavis67. I ended up going with a stock tank from National Tank Outlet. I did add fittings but was not hateful. It is a 55gal 46x28x11, about half the size of the aluminum tank. The fittings are on the end of the tank versus on top. That way I can slide the tank forward and out without tearing out the floor if there ever is a problem. (making a larger floor hatch) I have not received the tank yet should have it in the next couple weeks. I will post some pics when it comes in. It is a poly tank standard wall thickness and all that good stuff. I have around $550 in it w/ shipping. (It was on sale at the time I purchased it) A hell of a lot cheeper than some others out there. I understand you get what you pay for but its a standard poly tank that is tested. Either way I'm sure it will not leak.
 
Added some new bling this weekend. Two new additional 12"x12" trim tabs at the center position and new LED lights for swim platform. Can someone who has done the added trim tabs help me through the process of "bleeding" the new tabs? I assume running the pump in and out with some connection loose, but not sure what fitting this should bleed from. Hopefully not the connection at the actuator as it will be darn near impossible to get at.

What LEDS did you go with? I've been looking at the Sea BlazeX Spectrum. They seem to be simple to install and use.
 
gravies67 I will also be adding a set of tabs. Did you install them yourself? They look good.View attachment 53174
Yep, installed myself. Very easy to do. Measure 3 times, drill once. Used T's to attach lines to existing tabs. I will see if I like it setup that way this year. If not, I will separate the controls next year but I think this setup will be good for what we need. At full retract I set them to be just "above" the plane of the bottom of the hull, similar to the factory tabs. I'm going to also add the drop fins before it goes back in the water.
 
Let the new panels begin,,,a little marine board action.. I do believe I’m at the point where I need to get everything back together before I start another project, lol! I’m still waiting on my fresh water tank.
 

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Let the new panels begin,,,a little marine board action.. I do believe I’m at the point where I need to get everything back together before I start another project, lol! I’m still waiting on my fresh water tank.
I hear ya on the "need to get everything back together". I had so many projects "started" a couple of weeks ago and nothing finished - all waiting for parts. Last weekend was a huge weekend wrapping up projects so I could knock them off the list and start to take care of smaller "maintenance" items. Splash is 7 weeks away and time is running out.
 
Hello all, is anyone aware of any 390 salvage boats out there? I am looking for a radar arch...mine broke right in the center from a very heavy snow settling on the shrink wrap. I am in Indiana but would travel if I can locate a good one!
 

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