Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Curtis,

Stbd trim... the most common culprit... the solenoid can "click", even though it doesn't make a solid enough connection to pass the required amps (it's not so much about volts) through the connection. The way to tell for sure is to jumper around the solenoid with an appropriate sized wire.

Trim tabs... It takes several up/down cycles for it to purge itself of air. However, the fact that it was empty likely means there was (is?) a leak. While someone presses the button, look for leaks at the pump connection, along the tubing to the transom, the inside transom connection nipple and the ram on the outside. It's dirt simple, so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
 
Thanks. I fixed the trim and tilt issue. It was in fact a solenoid issue. I replaced both while I had it apart so we are good. As far as the trim tabs, I have not been able to find a leak anywhere. The motor sounds like it is working and even has a different pitch depending on whether up or down is pressed. I’ll try to hold the buttons depressed in the up and down positions longer once it warms up to see if it is an issue of needing to purge the air.
 
Seems like a number of you guys have updated the cupholder in front of the port side lounger to the more modern stainless 3-ring type that is on the cockpit sink. I would like to do the same as the plastic one is useless, is this a big job? I would assume that you'd need access to below to tighten the nuts on the base, is removing that ceiling panel a simple job or more involved than it's worth?
I replaced the plastic drink holder on mine with a new plastic drink holder I had custom made at a local plastic shop. The new drink holder is nearly 1/2” thick. I raised it about 2” to prevent drinks from topping over. It works and looks awesome. My total cost was about $75 and I was able to do everything from the top side.
 
29FF51A9-2C26-4967-82DF-EF9953062156.jpeg
I replaced the plastic drink holder on mine with a new plastic drink holder I had custom made at a local plastic shop. The new drink holder is nearly 1/2” thick. I raised it about 2” to prevent drinks from topping over. It works and looks awesome. My total cost was about $75 and I was able to do everything from the top side.
 
Interesting - my 05 which we just bought has the SS one. That must have been the changeover year. I'm heading over to the boat tomorrow and with take a look for you.
Yes, I believe that 2005 was the changeover year for the cabin tables color (white to wood) the smooth upholstery on the dinette and the SS cupholder in front of the lounger.
 
In talking to a couple of vendors including Seadeck, they said you need to sand down the anti skid surface application of the product. As a result I'm going with Infinity vinyl to replace the original carpeting. I've seen it on a couple of boats in our harbor and it looks great.

Odd, I just talked to a SeaDek installer at the Chicago boat show over the weekend and they claimed that no sanding of the nonskid was required and that if you wanted to revert to original (while it takes some elbow grease) you could. Guess I need to do a bit more research to confirm

Edit: Per SeaDek's FAQ section on their website, the product can be applied directly to existing nonskid. It does state that if it is very aggressive non-skid that you should send them photos first, but I don't think I would classify the 280 cockpit as aggressive.
 
Seems like a number of you guys have updated the cupholder in front of the port side lounger to the more modern stainless 3-ring type that is on the cockpit sink. I would like to do the same as the plastic one is useless, is this a big job? I would assume that you'd need access to below to tighten the nuts on the base, is removing that ceiling panel a simple job or more involved than it's worth?


Stg099,

here's a picture of the light directly under the cupholder. I didn't unscrew the light - but I imagine that'll allow you access. sorry for the sideways photo.

IMG_4977.JPG
 
Odd, I just talked to a SeaDek installer at the Chicago boat show over the weekend and they claimed that no sanding of the nonskid was required and that if you wanted to revert to original (while it takes some elbow grease) you could. Guess I need to do a bit more research to confirm

Edit: Per SeaDek's FAQ section on their website, the product can be applied directly to existing nonskid. It does state that if it is very aggressive non-skid that you should send them photos first, but I don't think I would classify the 280 cockpit as aggressive.

If you check some of the threrads on 'The Hull Thruth' forum - they'll complain of sporatic peeling. Not sure if it's because of the non-skid surface.
 
If you check some of the threrads on 'The Hull Thruth' forum - they'll complain of sporatic peeling. Not sure if it's because of the non-skid surface.
Non skid does not need to be sanded down. Cleaned real good to get a nice bond, yes, but no sanding is needed. Heck it comes that way from the factory (just peel and stick over the non-skid) and I've personally done it numerous times. I suspect the issues reported on Hull Truth are due to installation error.
 
Does anyone have a cooler for the swim platform that they'd recommend? Was thinking a taller but more narrow one would be best. With a cushion on top, and wheels to tow for transporting.
 
I've seen people buy the screen material and either install velcro or buttons on the inside. It'd be nice to have an actual screen door like a cobalt had that i almost bought.
 
What do you all do for a screen in the door to the cabin when you're overnighting (to keep the bugs out)
Some of the bigger SR's had an option for a a door screen, but since anything larger than a 280DA moves to a different style door you won't be able to retrofit anything "stock".

We always had our camper canvas up so it was never an issue since the camper canvas has screens. However, we contemplated fitting a screen setup for the door "just because", but never got around to it. I think you could make something work if it was weighted around some of the edges (the door track edges and the bottom). Sand, for example, sewn into a hem could work. Just would have to figure out a way to attach to the door side... velcro, snaps, ???

There are screen setup available for sale - just have to google - maybe look through sailboat sites. I see a lot of them there.
 
Hello all new to the forum....

Question..... I have a 2005 Sun Dancer 280 DA twin 5.0MPI Bravo III's and my STB side power steering pump fluid is a milky pinkish color and my steering is very hard I have to steer the boat with two hands. I sucked out the milky fluid and put fresh fluid in the pump, steering is still very hard, I notice after a run for the day when I do post checks the fluid is very very low to the point I have to refill it.

Also when I'm plugged into shore power the green light on my inverter comes on but the needle doesn't move after about two hours of radio play the battery dies I'm assuming the inverter is not charging my batteries because I have to use the emergency switch at the helm to start my port main engine.... any help would be appreciated!!

I bought July 2017 and after changing both IAC's and all bellows I was able to get her underway and found this issue.
 
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Some of the bigger SR's had an option for a a door screen, but since anything larger than a 280DA moves to a different style door you won't be able to retrofit anything "stock".

We always had our camper canvas up so it was never an issue since the camper canvas has screens. However, we contemplated fitting a screen setup for the door "just because", but never got around to it. I think you could make something work if it was weighted around some of the edges (the door track edges and the bottom). Sand, for example, sewn into a hem could work. Just would have to figure out a way to attach to the door side... velcro, snaps, ???

There are screen setup available for sale - just have to google - maybe look through sailboat sites. I see a lot of them there.


We had an interior screen setup on our 42 Beneteau (sailboat) made by the local canvas shop. Essentially it's a screen that has a fabric border with snaps. It attached to the inside of the companionway (doorway). Worked very well. Check with your local canvas shop. Unfortunately I don't have a picture.
 
Hello all new to the forum....

Question..... I have a 2005 Sun Dancer 280 DA twin 5.0MPI Bravo III's and my STB side power steering pump fluid is a milky pinkish color and my steering is very hard I have to steer the boat with two hands. I sucked out the milky fluid and put fresh fluid in the pump, steering is still very hard, I notice after a run for the day when I do post checks the fluid is very very low to the point I have to refill it.

Also when I'm plugged into shore power the green light on my inverter comes on but the needle doesn't move after about two hours of radio play the battery dies I'm assuming the inverter is not charging my batteries because I have to use the emergency switch at the helm to start my port main engine.... any help would be appreciated!!

I bought July 2017 and after changing both IAC's and all bellows I was able to get her underway and found this issue.
How do we drain the steering oil?
 

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