460 DA Owners Thread

knot at work said:
Thanks. I'm planning on Sea Dek which is soft. It is also a glue down but most people on this sight and others seem to really like it.
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We put Sea Dek down last Spring and LOVE it!! We applied it to the platform, main step into cockpit and the 2 steps on both port and stbd. to the fore-deck as well as the stern steps above the platform.

We still enjoy the carpet in the main cockpit area, but I have photos from another forum member that installed a vinyl style carpet that looks like Sea Dek...I added it as the last photo. When we change out the standard cockpit carpet we have, we will go with this. His template job was awesome! Very tight and the pieces fit perfectly together.
 

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Thanks Wolf! That’s our cockpit and the template was time consuming but it sure turned out nice. If anyone decides to do the Corinthian then give me a call first. Too much to type but I’ll hate some tricks of templating!


Josh
 
We just had our cockpit redone from Corinthian marine. They were great to deal with. I did my own template. Surprising it was without issue once the new stuff arrived, but the template process took me more time than I thought it would. I used the heavier 3m paper from a craft store, but would recommend just buying their template kit. The secret isn't so much buying it from them, it's the shipping. I found out the hard way by trying to roll my paper templates, the shipping tube was $220 to ship out west. I called Corinthian. They said not to worry, cautiously fold and they will call when it arrives. She did say if you buy their kit, it can be balled up and jammed in a box for shipping. I treated my appear rolls like fine china as I didn't want to have it come back a mess...
 
I used clear vinyl from Walmart and shipped it in a tube. I think it was 100 bucks to ship from Texas. Let’s see your finished work!

Josh
 
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Josh
Here are the pics. In the photos, the pattern looks more washed out than in real life. If we are very happy with it. I had them do the platform too.
 
When I called Corinthian back and they said it was ok to fold my templates, my shipping was $87 from Green Bay to Oregon. Less sticker shock for shipping.
 
NotHerDecision said:
Thanks Wolf! That’s our cockpit and the template was time consuming but it sure turned out nice. If anyone decides to do the Corinthian then give me a call first. Too much to type but I’ll hate some tricks of templating!


Josh
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I wonder if Corintian would have kept your template on file? I know Sea Dek does that. That sure would save the time of making the template for many people.
 
They do keep them. The issue is every boat is a little different and our template is within a 1/2”. I would ask them to send it to you and verify.
 
The problem with fit on larger boats isn't a Corinthian or template problem. Some things are positioned by eye-ball when the boats are assembled, and some boats have optional table bases in the cockpit area while others do not. This means that each boat is slightly different.

Corinthian's patterns are digital so it can drive their cutting device. They may be willing to cut a hard paper pattern but I suspect you would have to pay a set-up charge for the cutter. You are far better off making your own template for your boat using the Corinthian kit so you get an exact fit and any custom features you want.

For example, note the Sea Ray carpet set in the upper right corner on the opening page of their Aqua-Mat page:

https://www.corinthian-marine-carpet.com/products?product_type_id=1

Note that this template was made to fit against the cockpit side walls and so the invididual carpet pieces fit together with no gaps between them. The result is no white gaps around each carpet piece and all the snaps were deleted. This carpet set was made in 2010 and it still looks like new today.........I know, it is on my boat.

and, no, I'm not going to build any more teak tables!
 
Frank

I think they digitize the templates people send in. When I spoke to them on the phone they told me they had templates but it is all based on other's work. I made some unique changes to my template, for example I only cut 3 sides of the hatch and they recommend against this. I also didn't leave any "wiggle" room as I wanted the template tight against the sides. Anyway... They do an awesome job, The template took my wife and I over 10 hours so if I had to do it again, I would start from our template if they have a way to print and send it to you... that's the part I am unsure about.

Josh
 
It is held down with Velcro. It works decent but I have my doubts the Velcro will last more then 2 seasons. No big deal though because you can add snaps at anytime.
 
When I made my template, I made sure that each carpet panel fit tight enough so the seat bases, side walls, etc. trapped each piece in place. For example my engine hatch had 1.5" cut outs for the seat support which are 7/8" tubing; I made the cut outs 1". I eliminated as many gaps as possible by making bigger pieces. The weight of the larger pieces, the design of the layout and the natural tacky* surface of the PVC backing. I have no other fastening means to hold the carpet in place because my carpeting doesn't move at all.

To Corinthian and their employee's credit, the carpet set fit perfectly when it was received. After talking with the Corinthian's folks, I had confidence that we could achieve a cleaner, no-snap, layout. I would not have tried this level of detail or precision with any other company.

* it isn't really tacky, dirt, dust, sand, etc. won't stick to it, but I can't think of a better word to describe the PVC surface.
 
Frank,
How is your Corinthian product to clean? It probably doesn't show much soiling anyways. Also do you lift it out once in a while to clean the non-skid underneath? Thanks,
James
 
NotHerDecision said:
They do keep them. The issue is every boat is a little different and our template is within a 1/2”. I would ask them to send it to you and verify.
Click to expand...

Just received an email from Jennifer at Corinthian...they only keep the templates for 90 days...So bummed! :) They should digitize them and file them for future use like Sea Dek does.
Oh well, a template we will make.
 
Frank,

I got the aquaweave fabric with the felt backing... Now it makes since, the rubber type backing you got is probably better suited for how we use the boats. I know you asked Frank this, but the product is essentially woven vinyl so it's no hard to clean at all. Mine is trimmed in sunbrella, if I had to do it over, I would have chosen black instead of the brown because it wouldn't show dirt, but that's no biggie really.

I concur with Corinthian's level of precision and customer service, they are top-notch.

I can't believe they only keep it that long! What a bummer, I knew I should have paid them to send it back!
 
We also are extremely pleased with our Corinthian carpet/matting. We chose the AquaLoc thicker rubber backing. So we have no snaps or even Velcro in place to hold it. One thing we hated about the larger piece for the main portion of the cockpit was it was too many pieces. We had the standard Sea Ray pattern with a hole for the engine hatch, then the cut outs to expose the track for the sunpad. The small piece against the transom always slid around. That said, I made our template and got rid of all of that. We have one huge new piece and I love it. Nothing if off center, I don't pinch anything in the engine hatch, and we never use the sunpad anyway, so now we have a clean look, and the only thing I have to do is roll the piece forward to do any work in engine room.
 
Raeoflight said:
Hey dougvol, have you removed the carpet in your mid-berth or rear stateroom? If you do, let us know if there is indeed a hatch there, please. Thank you!
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I did remove the carpet. No hatch. To can access you need to remove the riser of the step going into the after. Take out the carpet baseboard and there is a solid piece of wood behind it. Once that is removed you can see where the hose attaches into the top of the water tank. Good thing I was going to replace carpet anyway
 
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Looks like my hot water heater has rusted out on the bottom so I have to replace it. Has anyone done this yet and have any pointers? My model is a S-1150E-W Seaward 11 gallon 240v. I cant find the exact replacement but I plan on calling Sea Ray Monday. Any information would help!
 
Jaws said:
Yes, I thought aft area meant cockpit but now I understand it to be the aft of the salon. All the above are good possibilities, washer/dryer and H.W. tank. I have never had water collect in that mid cabin bilge.
I have two different freshwater issues that are annoying:
1) I've replaced both pumps recently and one pump #2 wants to keep running at a low volume. Some have written about this but I wondered if a second check valve might help. It didn't. I end up just using the #1 pump and it produces better pressure than dockside connection on its own.
2) Sometimes, but not always, when connected to city water, the water tank fills. It shouldn't but it does.
Anyways, just little annoyances.
BTW, how do you get at the water fill and overflow connections to the main water tank? It's under the mid-cabin floor I assume but there are no access ports. Thanks.

On another front, I started losing prime in the port engine and had to prime like crazy with the little plunger to get it started. Ran fine once it was going. It only happened at the end of this boating season just before storage. So I had a diesel mechanic aboard last week and we started tracing and diagnosing. Checked Racors, Fleetguards, all lines and the manifold valves. No loss of diesel, just an air leak. Now we appear to have the leak identified. The primer plunger mechanism on the 6CTA has a check valve inside the assembly. Air was going back and forth through it and answers the question why it took a ridiculous number of strokes lately to get that motor primed. Parts are on order and I hope this fixes the loss of prime problem.

James
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To access the freshwater tank it is a little different than the sump access. The fresh water tank is in the aft. To access it you have to take the carpet baseboard off stepping down into the Aft. Second remove the wood riser behind baseboard and you will see the top of the tank. My clamps were loose and when I would overfill the fresh water tank and water was in the line it would drain out until water level came back down.
 
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