-50,-60,-100 AF. Cash grab?

Strecker25

Well-Known Member
SILVER Sponsor
Nov 20, 2014
4,905
Rochester, NY
Boat Info
2002 410DA
Engines
Caterpillar 350HP 3126
we’re in western NY and while not the coldest place around, it gets down there. We hit -6*F for a couple hours the other night and it got me thinking. I’ve always used the -50*F pink AF (drain the block, fill through tstat hose) and never had a problem. How low would it realistically have to be to crack a block properly winterized with the -50?

Obviously a lot of variables like how much water left in the motor, drained properly, etc, but the -60 and -100 stuff looks to be quite a bit more expensive. Curious if it’s just a way for the big box stores to make a couple more bucks
 
I don't even know if it was on CSR, but I've seen a thread where someone compared the various flavors in a range of temps. The take-away was that pink start to "slush" at startlingly-high temps.
 
just remember air is 'free' and 'never freezes'......:rolleyes:....I never used any anti freeze when I winterized my smaller trailer boats....just bled and blew out the water from the engine block and exhaust and fresh water lines......

cliff
 
I don't even know if it was on CSR, but I've seen a thread where someone compared the various flavors in a range of temps. The take-away was that pink start to "slush" at startlingly-high temps.

I put a half gallon of the -50 pink in my chest freezer that was at 0*F and it slushed up overnight. Being the dead of winter with nothing else to do maybe I'll see if I can set up some burst tests on various pipe. I think I have some pex laying around I could cap off and fill
 
just remember air is 'free' and 'never' freezes......:rolleyes:....I never used any anti freeze when I winterized my smaller trailer boats....just bled and blew out the water from the engine block and exhaust......

cliff
For sure. We all drain our blocks completely prior to filling with -50 pink, I can't imagine the rage I would have if the filling with AF actually caused a crack
 
It says so right on the bottle. The pink stuff will begin to slush somewhere around zero. It will not expand though.
 
It says so right on the bottle. The pink stuff will begin to slush somewhere around zero. It will not expand though.

Just went back to read a spare bottle. Slush point is 17*F, they say pvc burst is -10 and copper burst is -50. I guess that answers my question, I might go with a higher number next year. I checked the weather history from the other day and temps dipped to about -6 from 4-6 AM. A little too close for comfort in my mind.
 
You're good to go with the -50. You're nowhere near the burst temp for your engine. Rest peacefully - the baby is fine. As far as PVC goes, do you even have any of that on your boat?
 
You're good to go with the -50. You're nowhere near the burst temp for your engine. Rest peacefully - the baby is fine. As far as PVC goes, do you even have any of that on your boat?

I was actually thinking of the pex for the water lines, but that's a different plastic I believe? Polyethylene? maybe that has different properties than rigid pvc for burst.

I put 2 bottles in the freezer as an experiment last night. One of the West Marine -50 Engine AF and the other West Marine -50 alcohol based "water system" type. The engine pink is nicely slushed up this morning (not nearly enough to threaten bursting anything) yet the water system bottle remained completely liquid.

We've been exposed to much colder temps since I've been using the -50 so I'm not too worried for this year, but given the small amount needed to do the water system and all the plastic it passes through I might give a thought to a jug of -100 next year.
 
Yes, the PEX (brand name) lines are completely different than PVC - they are (common name) cross-linked polyethylene. Slushing doesn't matter - it's the burst temp that matters. I would assume the two different types of AF WOULD behave differently since they are made of different chemicals. So what you saw in your freezer (although I've never done that!) doesn't surprise me... and honestly, it doesn't really matter since, again, we're comparing two different chemicals.

You can certainly spend more money on the more expensive AF - and there are certainly worse things to spend your money on - but you'd really be wasting your money. You're good to -50*... you won't see that where you are - or anything even close.
 
Yes, the PEX (brand name) lines are completely different than PVC - they are (common name) cross-linked polyethylene. Slushing doesn't matter - it's the burst temp that matters. I would assume the two different types of AF WOULD behave differently since they are made of different chemicals. So what you saw in your freezer (although I've never done that!) doesn't surprise me... and honestly, it doesn't really matter since, again, we're comparing two different chemicals.

You can certainly spend more money on the more expensive AF - and there are certainly worse things to spend your money on - but you'd really be wasting your money. You're good to -50*... you won't see that where you are - or anything even close.

good info, thanks Dennis. Just about the only thing to do boat related this time of year up here is worry about things that don't matter ;) At least Boat Show season starts this week, maybe I'll blow some money on something I don't need when we go up to Toronto this weekend
 
just remember air is 'free' and 'never freezes'......:rolleyes:....I never used any anti freeze when I winterized my smaller trailer boats....just bled and blew out the water from the engine block and exhaust and fresh water lines......

cliff
If you'd have used spring water you'd have been OK.:) That was a joke I heard when I was a kid, from back when they used to run water in engines and drain it for the night so it didn't do damage. Next morning they'd heat up water, pour it in, and get on the handcrank, fire it up and away they went. When it got too cold, and roads poor due to snow the car was parked and they were back to cutters and sleighs.
 
Just remember, any water that may be left in the system will reduce the protection level below what is indicated on the label. That is why my guys use -100.

MM
 

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