40 sedan bridge forum

Pierpressure1 said:
My exterior refit has begun. The boat is now in an indoor facility to have minor fiberglass repair and awlgrip sprayed from the rubrail down. To defer some of the cost I have agreed to come in this weekend to remove as many of the through hull fittings as possible.

I understand there are at least three that can be accessed behind the fridge. Has anyone attempted to replace the ones that are accessed in the engine room or the front AC unit? I was not able to access the boat today during my visit so could not check their accessibility. The yard offered to cut the flanges outside so they could be pushed through but I would not want to have that done if the other end is not in an area I can reach.
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I have not replaced any but they are all accessible. Engine room might require removal of exhaust hoses. Front A/C seacock is accessible through the access hole inside the starboard side hanging locker in the forward stateroom.
 
Pierpressure1 said:
My exterior refit has begun. The boat is now in an indoor facility to have minor fiberglass repair and awlgrip sprayed from the rubrail down. To defer some of the cost I have agreed to come in this weekend to remove as many of the through hull fittings as possible.

I understand there are at least three that can be accessed behind the fridge. Has anyone attempted to replace the ones that are accessed in the engine room or the front AC unit? I was not able to access the boat today during my visit so could not check their accessibility. The yard offered to cut the flanges outside so they could be pushed through but I would not want to have that done if the other end is not in an area I can reach.
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Just had my fridge out. They are right there. Easy access.

I have replaced both my cockpit corner drain thru hulls. For starboard I had to remove generator exhaust hose and generator exhaust to wiggle back there on my back and work upside down. For the port side I only had to remove the two port batteries and I could wiggle back there. The macerator stopped me but my arms would reach. To get best leverage I would remove the macerator to get a little further back there. I'm 5'10", 170 lbs. I barely fit.
 
ZZ13 said:
Just had my fridge out. They are right there. Easy access.

I have replaced both my cockpit corner drain thru hulls. For starboard I had to remove generator exhaust hose and generator exhaust to wiggle back there on my back and work upside down. For the port side I only had to remove the two port batteries and I could wiggle back there. The macerator stopped me but my arms would reach. To get best leverage I would remove the macerator to get a little further back there. I'm 5'10", 170 lbs. I barely fit.
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Thanks for the quick reply. I am tempted to have them cut the flanges on the plastic fittings and push them inside which will save me a two hour drive to the boat and will limit my discomfort to a single session in the corners of the engine room.
 
Does anyone know what anodes go on a 2000 400DB? (Hull, trim tab). I am a 4 hr drive away from my boat but would like to order them from boatzinc.com so I have them the next time I drive up there. I know I need the magnesium anodes as I am fresh water (Lake Michigan).

Also are there shaft anodes normally on a 400DB?

I know about the engine anodes for my Cat3116's but right now I am saving that project after I bring her home next spring as I will have limited time with her over the winter. Storage facility is only open on Saturday's in the winter so daily time is of the essence. My goal is to get the in water stuff done (wax, anodes, etc) before she launches and I bring her home.

Thanks!

Steve
 
I have had trim tab anodes, the big stern plate anode, and shaft anodes. When I bought the boat, it also had small anodes the screwed onto the housing for the intake. I couldn't find replacements, so left those off the last two seasons. I thought it was overkill anyway with all the anodes in the engines themselves. I've put shaft anodes on the last two seasons, and both times in the fall, they were missing when the boat was hauled. I know ZZ13 doesn't use shaft anodes, and I'm thinking about not putting them on next year. I'm pretty sure one dinged my prop when it fell off and I know someone else who also dinged a prop when a shaft anode fell off, so I may leave them off for next season. Still undecided. I could probably be swayed either way at this point.
 
Steve S said:
Does anyone know what anodes go on a 2000 400DB? (Hull, trim tab). I am a 4 hr drive away from my boat but would like to order them from boatzinc.com so I have them the next time I drive up there. I know I need the magnesium anodes as I am fresh water (Lake Michigan).

Also are there shaft anodes normally on a 400DB?

I know about the engine anodes for my Cat3116's but right now I am saving that project after I bring her home next spring as I will have limited time with her over the winter. Storage facility is only open on Saturday's in the winter so daily time is of the essence. My goal is to get the in water stuff done (wax, anodes, etc) before she launches and I bring her home.

Thanks!

Steve
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Steve - I couldn't find magnesium anodes for my 3126's on my last boat, but I found Aluminum from Performance Metals for the CATs and the Hull/Trimtabs. AL is OK for freshwater, brackish or salt. No shaft anodes on any Sea Rays, but some people do add them...

http://www.performancemetals.com/images/pdfs/PMI Catalog 15.pdf

These are for the 3126, you don't need 11 - I can't recall how many you have - maybe 6?

http://www.performancemetals.com/anodes/Pencil.shtml

Per Engine:
3 – 6L2283 (AE-0A), 2 – 6L2281 (AE-1E), 6 – 6L3104 (AE-0C)

Westerbeke 1 – AE-0

877.612.5213X221

AE-0A – 3/8”Dia x 2 ½” long x 5/16-18 UNC

AE-0 – 3/8” Dia x 1 ¾” long x 5/16-18 UNC

AE-1E – ½” Dia x 1½” long x 3/8-16 UNC

A 6L3104 – 3/8” Dia x 1 ½” long x ¼-20 UNC

Hull Anode (Navalloy) HYAA

Tab Anodes (Navalloy) R3750A (1 Pair – Need 2)
 
We're starting our laminate flooring remodel this weekend using Plasteak cherry and holly planks. I've always loved the look of teak and holly, but I think it competes with our cherry cabinetry. If I had my choice, I would have gone with the mahogany and holly, but it's only offered by them in a sheet vinyl. I'm heading to the boat on Saturday to scrape up residual foam backing from the 20 year old carpet that had separated and modify the hatch latches to the new stupidly expensive stainless versions that I had to have over the cheap plastic perko's that came with the boat. If I have to see them exposed, they need to look sweet..... I think we're going to carry it through the salon, dinette, steps, galley and companionway, leaving the staterooms carpet. For now.... I'm assuming that the galley factory vinyl runs all of the way under the refrig. It needs to come out anyway since it's toast and needs replaced. Would like to hear thoughts on the Vitrifrigo over the Norcold.. The flybridge, cockpit, steps and swim platform were all covered with custom Sea Dek last week and turned out really great.
 

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Drafter said:
Would like to hear thoughts on the Vitrifrigo over the Norcold.. The flybridge, cockpit, steps and swim platform were all covered with custom Sea Dek last week and turned out really great.
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Buy which ever one has a light on the inside. Worst feature on my boat is that the factory fridge isn't lit up inside. Seriously, I think its greater than 3:1 for the Vitrifrigo when my buddies have replaced their factory Norcolds.
 
I've bought the dreaded Norcold DE0061 before for my last boat which is what fits these boats. Supposedly the new versions have a blue LED light in them now. Everything that I have heard says to stay away from them. I think they're overpriced for what you get in an oversized dorm fridge. I'm sure that the dometic that is in there, is just low on freon from years of non use. I couldn't get a local guy to even thinking about messing with it. He also said to stay away from the Norcold. For $1500, you would think that frost free might be an option. Curious to see if anyone on here used the Vitrifrigo, and how well it fit in.
 
We installed the Vitrifrigo and are VERY happy. The light is fantastic, it's much more quiet (quieter), and has more overall room than the norcold. It fit "ok". We had to cut a bit off of the upper horizontal trim to slide it in. After that, there was a bit of frustrational influence that made it fit. I don't look forward to getting it back out. I read this entire forum and some have had this same fridge slide in no problem. It may be a bit of reworking the trim for you, I can't say, but it's been a good fridge this year. It's still on, even though the boat is winterized...gotta have reliably cold beer when you "check" on the boat.

Lastly, why is it spelled "refrigerator" but we all spell/say "fridge"?
 
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Drafter said:
We're starting our laminate flooring remodel this weekend using Plasteak cherry and holly planks. I've always loved the look of teak and holly, but I think it competes with our cherry cabinetry. If I had my choice, I would have gone with the mahogany and holly, but it's only offered by them in a sheet vinyl. I'm heading to the boat on Saturday to scrape up residual foam backing from the 20 year old carpet that had separated and modify the hatch latches to the new stupidly expensive stainless versions that I had to have over the cheap plastic perko's that came with the boat. If I have to see them exposed, they need to look sweet..... I think we're going to carry it through the salon, dinette, steps, galley and companionway, leaving the staterooms carpet. For now.... I'm assuming that the galley factory vinyl runs all of the way under the refrig. It needs to come out anyway since it's toast and needs replaced. Would like to hear thoughts on the Vitrifrigo over the Norcold.. The flybridge, cockpit, steps and swim platform were all covered with custom Sea Dek last week and turned out really great.
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That sounds great. Would be super if u keep us up to date with your progress with some pics. Good luck
 
Today I was able to remove all the plastic through hulls in preparation for my hull sides painting. It was certainly not pleasant wedging my body into the port and starboard corners of the engine room and I did get stuck a couple times but it will be worth it to have all stainless against the new paint.

I am having trouble finding the threaded through hull fittings that go into the two ac discharge shut off valves. Has anyone changed these over to stainless and if so can you share details?

D0293438-4FED-47D2-8025-4AFD7FE6C175.jpeg
 
Got a chance over the weekend to ditch the old plastic perko hatch latches and replace with new stainless, since they will be exposed with the new laminate flooring. I guess the stainless versions were factory on later models?? I created a template out of a manila folder, and then used a rotozip type tool on my dremel to modify the existing holes to fit.
I temporarily laid down a couple of planks of the new cherry and holly Plasteak flooring to see how it would look. I think it's a pretty good match with the existing cherry millwork in the boat. Now we just have to get rid of the green interior upholstery. I'm not sure if this was a factory color, or added later. Probably great circa 1998. We're going back with a dark navy blue. It's always a risk to add any color other than a neutral, but we like it, and think it will be a little more timeless than the green. Seems every boat in the world has beige upholstery, and we want something a little more custom if we're going to go through the effort. Sorry for the sideways picture. I cannot figure out how to rotate it for the thread. Even rotating the source file, and re-attaching....
 

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Drafter said:
Got a chance over the weekend to ditch the old plastic perko hatch latches and replace with new stainless, since they will be exposed with the new laminate flooring. I guess the stainless versions were factory on later models?? I created a template out of a manila folder, and then used a rotozip type tool on my dremel to modify the existing holes to fit.
I temporarily laid down a couple of planks of the new cherry and holly Plasteak flooring to see how it would look. I think it's a pretty good match with the existing cherry millwork in the boat. Now we just have to get rid of the green interior upholstery. I'm not sure if this was a factory color, or added later. Probably great circa 1998. We're going back with a dark navy blue. It's always a risk to add any color other than a neutral, but we like it, and think it will be a little more timeless than the green. Seems every boat in the world has beige upholstery, and we want something a little more custom if we're going to go through the effort. Sorry for the sideways picture. I cannot figure out how to rotate it for the thread. Even rotating the source file, and re-attaching....
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I've never seen that green interior before. Can you post some more pics of the interior of your boat? You have me curious now.
 
Does it look like this? This is from the 1998 model brochure. Nice laptop, huh?

A774E463-A6F0-4EC3-AD00-7C1FF94CD3A9.jpeg
 
Drafter said:
Sure does! Ha! I've been looking all over for a 98 model brochure. If you have it in soft copy, I would love to have a copy of it.
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Actually, I have a hard copy of the Sea Ray cruiser line up for 1998. The 400 Sedan Bridge takes up 7 pages in that brochure. Pictures below.

I'm the 2nd owner of my boat, meaning the PO bought it new. He saved everything, so I got all the goodies that came along with a new boat, including that brochure. :)
 
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