OFFICIAL 390/40 Motor Yacht Thread

Hi everyone. Took possession of my new (to me) 2004 390 Motor Yacht last week! First time owner with definite "deer in the headlights " looks but a SMILE that has yet to leave my mug. Great purchase experience with the previous owners and a very helpful group at the Marina. I'm having close friends with years of boating teach me the ins and outs.

Primary use this season is on the Mississippi River with shorter trips as I get up to speed on the boats functions and capabilities. This is a great forum with tons of information. Thank you guys!
Congrats. I just purchased a 2005 390 and having a difficult time winterizing the fresh water system. would appreciate any directions on how you did yours. Thanks, terryk
 
Terryk, here is the process I use to winterize the fresh water system.
- Bypass hot water heater. This may be easier said than done. If you have a washer/dryer, you may not be able to do this as the HWH is behind it and impossible to get to without removing the washer/dryer. I've solved this for myself but that is a different story. If you have this problem, just proceed for now with the remaining steps.
- Run potable water pump and open a couple of spigots until the tank is as empty as possible.
- I attach a small air compressor to the shore water connection on the swim platform port side. I use a Black and Decker pump designed for inflating tires and/or basketballs. There is a fitting available at Wax-Mart in the RV section, an RV store or online that will screw in to the shore inlet like a hose and has an air fitting that will mate to most any type of air pump.
- Start the air pump then go around to each and every water source, opening them until they run dry. Make sure you hit the toilets, the engine room and anchor locker hose bibs and especially the windshield washer. The only damage I've ever caused myself was by failing to do the windshield washer.
- At this point there should be no water in the system and therefore any risk of freezing. There will probably be a little water left in the main tank and the HWH but no danger of those causing any problem. For insurance, you can also run pink antifreeze through the system. There is a fitting (available at RV sources again) that consists of a fitting that attaches to the potable water pump outlet with a hose that will insert in the antifreeze jug and enable you to use only what you need. You can also just pour several gallons of antifreeze in the water tank until the pump will take a suction. Either way you then go around and run each source until pink comes out. If you cannot reach the HWH this will cost you several more gallons of antifreeze. I have been antifreeze-free for several years now and have not had any problems.
- Pour antifreeze (about a quart) into each toilet and flush them so that the pump assembly is protected. Also follow the instructions for the washer-dryer if you have one.

Hope this helps. It would be useful to know from you exactly what is causing your difficulty.
 
Congrats. I just purchased a 2005 390 and having a difficult time winterizing the fresh water system. would appreciate any directions on how you did yours. Thanks, terryk
Good morning TerryK

I am not able to assist. I have the Marina doing the winterizing for me (as part of the purchase). I will be sure to follow your progress for next year ! Good luck

Fin
 
Terryk, here is the process I use to winterize the fresh water system.
- Bypass hot water heater. This may be easier said than done. If you have a washer/dryer, you may not be able to do this as the HWH is behind it and impossible to get to without removing the washer/dryer. I've solved this for myself but that is a different story. If you have this problem, just proceed for now with the remaining steps.
- Run potable water pump and open a couple of spigots until the tank is as empty as possible.
- I attach a small air compressor to the shore water connection on the swim platform port side. I use a Black and Decker pump designed for inflating tires and/or basketballs. There is a fitting available at Wax-Mart in the RV section, an RV store or online that will screw in to the shore inlet like a hose and has an air fitting that will mate to most any type of air pump.
- Start the air pump then go around to each and every water source, opening them until they run dry. Make sure you hit the toilets, the engine room and anchor locker hose bibs and especially the windshield washer. The only damage I've ever caused myself was by failing to do the windshield washer.
- At this point there should be no water in the system and therefore any risk of freezing. There will probably be a little water left in the main tank and the HWH but no danger of those causing any problem. For insurance, you can also run pink antifreeze through the system. There is a fitting (available at RV sources again) that consists of a fitting that attaches to the potable water pump outlet with a hose that will insert in the antifreeze jug and enable you to use only what you need. You can also just pour several gallons of antifreeze in the water tank until the pump will take a suction. Either way you then go around and run each source until pink comes out. If you cannot reach the HWH this will cost you several more gallons of antifreeze. I have been antifreeze-free for several years now and have not had any problems.
- Pour antifreeze (about a quart) into each toilet and flush them so that the pump assembly is protected. Also follow the instructions for the washer-dryer if you have one.

Hope this helps. It would be useful to know from you exactly what is causing your difficulty.
Thank you so very much for your well written reply. I couldn't get to my HWH so I drained my water tank and put a total of 44 gallons of pink antifreeze in the tank. (I have never used the hose inlet and the previous owner said that he hadn't either. My problem is my hot water system outlets have not put out deep red color antifreeze. Our plan now is, my wife can reach around the washer/dryer and open the water heater and drain the tank.I believe there is a free line coming from the tank to put the contents in buckets. That is our plan this afternoon. Thanks for reminding me of the bilge outlet and front anchor outlet. I have done them, but have not atempted the windshield washer. Is that a separate system or is it tied into the water system? Thats where I am now. Thanks again. I really appreciate it. I just joined this forum this morning. Best regards, terryk
 
Smart move Fin.I purchased mine the beginning of July 2017 and havn't had a problem until the last cruise on Sunday. My Glendinning (sp) didn't want to reel the electric shore cord in. Job for next year. Thanks for your response, terryk
 
Thank you so very much for your well written reply. I couldn't get to my HWH so I drained my water tank and put a total of 44 gallons of pink antifreeze in the tank. (I have never used the hose inlet and the previous owner said that he hadn't either. My problem is my hot water system outlets have not put out deep red color antifreeze. Our plan now is, my wife can reach around the washer/dryer and open the water heater and drain the tank.I believe there is a free line coming from the tank to put the contents in buckets. That is our plan this afternoon. Thanks for reminding me of the bilge outlet and front anchor outlet. I have done them, but have not atempted the windshield washer. Is that a separate system or is it tied into the water system? Thats where I am now. Thanks again. I really appreciate it. I just joined this forum this morning. Best regards, terryk

Terryk, draining the HWH tank will help. There should be a drain line that goes to the forward bilge. You might just let the bilge pump there do its work and get rid of most of the water that way, then suck up the rest with a wet/dry vac. Another way to get at the tank is to remove the braces that hold in the washer/dryer. A skinny enough person can then lie on top of the washer and get to the tank.
The windshield washer has a feed coming off the cold side of the potable water system so it is tied in. You should see a switch on the helm to turn it on which should result in pink coming out. Also, I forgot to mention the wash down hose on the swim platform so make sure you run that one to pink as well. And, if you happen to have an ice maker (I don't) then you will need to run pink through the hoses going to that. One more place to make sure is pinked is the shower sump between the engines; running pink from all the outlets should take care of it but you want to make sure.
Back when I ran pink through the tank it used to cost me minimum 15 gallons of pink, mostly to get the HWH tank filled. Earlier years I had had to use even more but never quite as much as you have. I imagine you must have had a great deal of residual water in the main tank, the HWH and the water lines if the amount you have used didn't result in pink coming out. Eventually blowing out the lines will help a lot in future years if you go that route.
In my opinion the HWH setup is the only but quite significant design flaw in this class of boats. Another problem with the HWH set up is that it is difficult to properly flush and clean the tank as that requires access to the front of the tank. The tank body and heating elements can develop pretty smelly water that I found impossible to eradicate. A couple of years ago I installed a new HWH with a stainless tank and placed it so that I can get at all the valves including a winter by-pass via reach-around.
 
Terryk, draining the HWH tank will help. There should be a drain line that goes to the forward bilge. You might just let the bilge pump there do its work and get rid of most of the water that way, then suck up the rest with a wet/dry vac. Another way to get at the tank is to remove the braces that hold in the washer/dryer. A skinny enough person can then lie on top of the washer and get to the tank.
The windshield washer has a feed coming off the cold side of the potable water system so it is tied in. You should see a switch on the helm to turn it on which should result in pink coming out. Also, I forgot to mention the wash down hose on the swim platform so make sure you run that one to pink as well. And, if you happen to have an ice maker (I don't) then you will need to run pink through the hoses going to that. One more place to make sure is pinked is the shower sump between the engines; running pink from all the outlets should take care of it but you want to make sure.
Back when I ran pink through the tank it used to cost me minimum 15 gallons of pink, mostly to get the HWH tank filled. Earlier years I had had to use even more but never quite as much as you have. I imagine you must have had a great deal of residual water in the main tank, the HWH and the water lines if the amount you have used didn't result in pink coming out. Eventually blowing out the lines will help a lot in future years if you go that route.
In my opinion the HWH setup is the only but quite significant design flaw in this class of boats. Another problem with the HWH set up is that it is difficult to properly flush and clean the tank as that requires access to the front of the tank. The tank body and heating elements can develop pretty smelly water that I found impossible to eradicate. A couple of years ago I installed a new HWH with a stainless tank and placed it so that I can get at all the valves including a winter by-pass via reach-around.
Thanks again. I have pink everywhere now. I need to check the the windshield washer. We do not plan on using the washer/dryer so I think I am going to take it out and store it. All said, I love our boat, and as you stated, the HWH is a pain and there is not much space in the engine room. Thanks again, terryk
 
Just noticed this post. Did you get it fixed? I had this problem early on and it turned out to be the bleed valve on the bottom of the accumulator tank had worked loose. Tightening that down fixed my problem.
Hi Al, Long message with some other updates.
Been awhile since I've been on this forum. Regarding the horn,next weekend I will be going back to the that issue. I removed the cover on the cockpit ceiling and saw the horn solenoid and it does actuate. So next I removed the starboard cover plate that extends from ceiling to counter and saw the synflex 4242 5/16" hose going down presumably to the bilge. I went below and saw the bundle it is involved with so basically have traced it. This effort started after closing on the boat last year when I noticed the compressor positive lead was removed. I put it back on and it runs and build pressure if I clamp the hose leading to the accumulator tank. Yes, the tank drain valve is closed but still will not build pressure. I assumed a break in the pneumatic hose leading to the solenoid on the cockpit ceiling but not sure. So I will bring from my house an air compressor/tank. I'll break the synflex hose at a convenient spot leading to the solenoid and use the air from the compressor tank to see if the horn works. If it does then I'll be able to back up and determine the location of the air leak. All this for a horn but is needed since my hand horns are a little whimpy for a 40' motor yacht. Next is the rudder indicator not moving when steering and finally the starboard transom light. Actually these are the final things to fix on an otherwise 99% good working vessel. Recently I had the backlight go out on the E120 display. I removed it and sent it to Steve in Bradenton, FL for a fix. He turned it around in a day and I installed it. Works fine. Saved me $$$K on a new E120.
 
Terryk, draining the HWH tank will help. There should be a drain line that goes to the forward bilge. You might just let the bilge pump there do its work and get rid of most of the water that way, then suck up the rest with a wet/dry vac. Another way to get at the tank is to remove the braces that hold in the washer/dryer. A skinny enough person can then lie on top of the washer and get to the tank.
The windshield washer has a feed coming off the cold side of the potable water system so it is tied in. You should see a switch on the helm to turn it on which should result in pink coming out. Also, I forgot to mention the wash down hose on the swim platform so make sure you run that one to pink as well. And, if you happen to have an ice maker (I don't) then you will need to run pink through the hoses going to that. One more place to make sure is pinked is the shower sump between the engines; running pink from all the outlets should take care of it but you want to make sure.
Back when I ran pink through the tank it used to cost me minimum 15 gallons of pink, mostly to get the HWH tank filled. Earlier years I had had to use even more but never quite as much as you have. I imagine you must have had a great deal of residual water in the main tank, the HWH and the water lines if the amount you have used didn't result in pink coming out. Eventually blowing out the lines will help a lot in future years if you go that route.
In my opinion the HWH setup is the only but quite significant design flaw in this class of boats. Another problem with the HWH set up is that it is difficult to properly flush and clean the tank as that requires access to the front of the tank. The tank body and heating elements can develop pretty smelly water that I found impossible to eradicate. A couple of years ago I installed a new HWH with a stainless tank and placed it so that I can get at all the valves including a winter by-pass via reach-around.
All good procedures for winterizing. I'd like to hear what others have done to winterize the raw water network for the 3-4 A/C units. Don't like risking freezing the exchangers.
 
All good procedures for winterizing. I'd like to hear what others have done to winterize the raw water network for the 3-4 A/C units. Don't like risking freezing the exchangers.
I use a product called "Sea Flush" which is essentially a funnel that fits into sea strainers, one size fits all. It has an insert that is sized to fit a wet-dry vacuum hose. Essentially you put the Sea Flush in the strainer with the sea cock closed, insert the vacuum hose (connected to the exhaust not vacuum side of the vac), turn it on then open the sea cock. Once you hear or see bubbles coming up from the bottom of the boat, close the sea cock. This will get the water out of the sea chest. Leaving it on will blow most of the water out of the evaporators but to be sure you need to pinch off three of the four outlet hoses coming out of the A/C pump then blow the un-pinched hoses out individually. I have three cheap locking pliers with the teeth wrapped in duct tape for this purpose. I pinch off three hoses, blow, then move one of the pliers to the open hose until all four have been blown. To inject antifreeze, you can fill up the funnel with pink then blow that through the line until it is seen coming out of the overboard associated with that line. I used to do that but have only blown out my system the last couple of years with no problems. The Sea Flush also has a fitting that will suck antifreeze from a bottle or tub; I use that for the engines and generator. After blowing out the sea chest for each system, a helper starts the motor and its organic pump will quickly pull in enough antifreeze to winterize that system.
 
Hi Al, Long message with some other updates.
Been awhile since I've been on this forum. Regarding the horn,next weekend I will be going back to the that issue. I removed the cover on the cockpit ceiling and saw the horn solenoid and it does actuate. So next I removed the starboard cover plate that extends from ceiling to counter and saw the synflex 4242 5/16" hose going down presumably to the bilge. I went below and saw the bundle it is involved with so basically have traced it. This effort started after closing on the boat last year when I noticed the compressor positive lead was removed. I put it back on and it runs and build pressure if I clamp the hose leading to the accumulator tank. Yes, the tank drain valve is closed but still will not build pressure. I assumed a break in the pneumatic hose leading to the solenoid on the cockpit ceiling but not sure. So I will bring from my house an air compressor/tank. I'll break the synflex hose at a convenient spot leading to the solenoid and use the air from the compressor tank to see if the horn works. If it does then I'll be able to back up and determine the location of the air leak. All this for a horn but is needed since my hand horns are a little whimpy for a 40' motor yacht. Next is the rudder indicator not moving when steering and finally the starboard transom light. Actually these are the final things to fix on an otherwise 99% good working vessel. Recently I had the backlight go out on the E120 display. I removed it and sent it to Steve in Bradenton, FL for a fix. He turned it around in a day and I installed it. Works fine. Saved me $$$K on a new E120.
Riverdaze, sounds like you've got a good plan to figure out the horn. On the rudder angle indicator, is this the one for the autopilot or for the Smartcraft? Assume you have both like mine has. If it's the Raymarine indicator, I replaced a couple of those over the span of a few years. I actually have the most recent replacement sitting in my garage as I did a changeover from the original Raymarine systems to all-Garmin this year. When I get my act together I'm going to post all that equipment in the classifieds on this forum.
 
Riverdaze, sounds like you've got a good plan to figure out the horn. On the rudder angle indicator, is this the one for the autopilot or for the Smartcraft? Assume you have both like mine has. If it's the Raymarine indicator, I replaced a couple of those over the span of a few years. I actually have the most recent replacement sitting in my garage as I did a changeover from the original Raymarine systems to all-Garmin this year. When I get my act together I'm going to post all that equipment in the classifieds on this forum.
HI Al, This is the rudder angle display from the Smartcraft. I haven't tried the rudder angle indicator for Autopilot didn't know it had one. You jut gave me something else to try next weekend. I wanted the rudder angle indicator available for my admiral who tends to wheel steer rather than toggle forward/reverse as we are approaching close quarters and I am doing other things. Steering set at hard port angle makes toggling a little tough to figure out!
 
I use a product called "Sea Flush" which is essentially a funnel that fits into sea strainers, one size fits all. It has an insert that is sized to fit a wet-dry vacuum hose. Essentially you put the Sea Flush in the strainer with the sea cock closed, insert the vacuum hose (connected to the exhaust not vacuum side of the vac), turn it on then open the sea cock. Once you hear or see bubbles coming up from the bottom of the boat, close the sea cock. This will get the water out of the sea chest. Leaving it on will blow most of the water out of the evaporators but to be sure you need to pinch off three of the four outlet hoses coming out of the A/C pump then blow the un-pinched hoses out individually. I have three cheap locking pliers with the teeth wrapped in duct tape for this purpose. I pinch off three hoses, blow, then move one of the pliers to the open hose until all four have been blown. To inject antifreeze, you can fill up the funnel with pink then blow that through the line until it is seen coming out of the overboard associated with that line. I used to do that but have only blown out my system the last couple of years with no problems. The Sea Flush also has a fitting that will suck antifreeze from a bottle or tub; I use that for the engines and generator. After blowing out the sea chest for each system, a helper starts the motor and its organic pump will quickly pull in enough antifreeze to winterize that system.
Seaflush sounds like a good way to ensure upper evap unit is protected. I'm in Chattanooga. Winters are not severe but all I need is a few days of hard freeze to make for an unexpected Spring project.
 
HI Al, This is the rudder angle display from the Smartcraft. I haven't tried the rudder angle indicator for Autopilot didn't know it had one. You jut gave me something else to try next weekend. I wanted the rudder angle indicator available for my admiral who tends to wheel steer rather than toggle forward/reverse as we are approaching close quarters and I am doing other things. Steering set at hard port angle makes toggling a little tough to figure out!
Is there a sender unit for rudder angle on Seacraft I need to look for at the linkage or does it leverage hydraulics somewhere else?
 
Is there a sender unit for rudder angle on Seacraft I need to look for at the linkage or does it leverage hydraulics somewhere else?
The Smartcraft sender is on the starboard side of the rudder linkage, Raymarine sender was on the port side. I believe the signal routes through the starboard system link gauge connector and then into the Smartcraft wiring harness.
 
Good afternoon all! I’m looking for a cockpit table. Any good suggestions?

Thanks

Fin
 
Good afternoon all! I’m looking for a cockpit table. Any good suggestions?

Thanks

Fin
Fin, I replaced the stock table with a new top from Marine Teak, a sponsor on this site. I've been very happy with it. I got a model with sliding leaves as I found the original table took up too much area in our rather narrow cockpit area. This way, I can have the surface area when we need it but then open up some space when we don't.
 
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Hi Al, Long message with some other updates.
Been awhile since I've been on this forum. Regarding the horn,next weekend I will be going back to the that issue. I removed the cover on the cockpit ceiling and saw the horn solenoid and it does actuate. So next I removed the starboard cover plate that extends from ceiling to counter and saw the synflex 4242 5/16" hose going down presumably to the bilge. I went below and saw the bundle it is involved with so basically have traced it. This effort started after closing on the boat last year when I noticed the compressor positive lead was removed. I put it back on and it runs and build pressure if I clamp the hose leading to the accumulator tank. Yes, the tank drain valve is closed but still will not build pressure. I assumed a break in the pneumatic hose leading to the solenoid on the cockpit ceiling but not sure. So I will bring from my house an air compressor/tank. I'll break the synflex hose at a convenient spot leading to the solenoid and use the air from the compressor tank to see if the horn works. If it does then I'll be able to back up and determine the location of the air leak. All this for a horn but is needed since my hand horns are a little whimpy for a 40' motor yacht. Next is the rudder indicator not moving when steering and finally the starboard transom light. Actually these are the final things to fix on an otherwise 99% good working vessel. Recently I had the backlight go out on the E120 display. I removed it and sent it to Steve in Bradenton, FL for a fix. He turned it around in a day and I installed it. Works fine. Saved me $$$K on a new E120.
OK did my run through to figure out air horn not working. Connected my home supplied air compressor energized with 100 psi to the bilge air compressor tank with appropriate fittings and tried the horn...no go. I noticed air pressure was bleeding from somewhere as compressor lost air. I accessed the solenoid in the cockpit ceiling and there was the first problem, The solenoid mechanism was frozen half open I guess, or corroded half open so no pressure could be built up. Next I hooked up the home air compressor directly to the horn expecting 130 db's of noise and nothing. So the bain of marine trouble shooting ...two root problems. Went to the roof of the cockpit and heard air releasing out of horn. Stop everything. removed horn, disassembled it and saw spider webs inside but not to the extent of clogging anything especially with 100psi air pressure. observed only 4 parts, copper diaphram, o ring, rear housing and horn. Not rocket surgery to figure out. The rear vent port was sealed with spider eggs. Cleaned it reassembled applied air and WWWAAAA!!!! 130 db's of sound threw me back in my seat. OK so that's fixed. Solenoid is too badly corroded so ordered a new one. Saved 750 bucks in marine estimate and know a whole lot more about my vessel. 50 buck fix.
 
Hi All,
I currently have a Cruisers 3170 Esprit.
Myself and the Admiral are looking to move up.
We have been looking at the SR 390/40 MY. We have looked at a few and really like the looks. We like the hardtop with less height/windage. Also big points for less canvas/eisenglass.
Heat/AC in the Helm/Cockpit, etc... much more comforts than what we have now.
What is new to me is the handling part like backing down into a slip, the overall handling of the MY vs my cruisers.
Any tips?
Also looking/comparing with the Cruisers 405/415. What I like about the Cruisers is the small peices of eisenglass above the windshield for air flow. Any thoughts on that compared to the fully enclosure of the Searay?
Does anyone have any opinions or suggestions?
Going to look at a Carver 396 next week just to compare.
This thread has a lot of good info. Hope to be adding to this soon.
Thanks,
 

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