Portable gas tank for winterizing fuel system

paulswagelock

paulswagelock

Well-Known Member
Oct 25, 2010
2,194
pa
Boat Info
2018 SDX 270 OB 300 Verado
Engines
Verado 300
I remember someone on here posting a picture of the portable fuel tank / fuel line and fittings they made to connect into the cool fuel module for winterizing. I can not find it via the search function. Anyone remember it and can point me to a link?
 
At the fuel sep remove the fuel line from the tank and connect the remote fuel line.
 
DaleM said:
Not sure if this is what you mean but - I did this with a 3way valve and quick release inline with the main fuel line. Here is the write up I did. It worked brilliantly last year. Kudos to Lazy Daze who helped draw up parts. Fogging an EFI took about 10 minutes with no gas spill.
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/quick-release-fogging-set-up.77110/
Click to expand...

Is there a reason you would not attach the 3 way valve right at the fuel valve solenoid? They are easy to access and you could place the adaptor between the existing connector and the valve.
 

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I have never fogged an engine on a boat, motorcycle, snowmobile, or any motor prior to storage, but I live in a low humidity climate with little rust and corrosion. I wonder how necessary it is?
 
So after reading the winterization instructions in a downloaded manual for my Mercruiser 8.1L over and over, I came to the conclusion that the instructions did not quite match my model of 8.1.

And after studying the Mercury Parts catalog, I realized that my 8.1 is different in that it has a Fuel/Water separator and inline fuel filter, while the manual I was reading appears to have these combined with Cool Fuel module. Also, I could never locate a cool fuel module that looked like the one in the manual. According the parts manual mine looks like the attached.

So then I happened upon an online manual for what appears to be my version of the 8.1 and here are the instructions for fogging the engine:


6 Close the fuel shut-off valve, if equipped. If no fuel shut-off valve is present, a suitable method must be


employed to STOP the flow of fuel from the fuel tank to the engine before proceeding.

7 Prepare fuel system for extended storage as follows:

A Allow engine to cool down.

B Remove the water separating fuel filter. Refer to Changing Water Separating Fuel Filter.

C Pour out a small amount of fuel into a suitable container, then add approximately 2 fluid ounces (60 ml) of


Quicksilver 2-Cycle Outboard Oil to fuel in the water separating fuel filter.

D Reinstall water separating fuel filter.

E Disconnect harness connections from fuel pump and fuel boost pump.

F Start and operate engine at idle speed until the water separating fuel filter and fuel injection system are empty


and engine stops.

G Remove and discard water separating fuel filter.

H Install a new water separating fuel filter.

I Reconnect harness connections at both fuel pumps.

So no remote tank. Just put the mixture in the fuel/water separator and let the engine run until it stops.

It's really fascinating the variations between versions of the same model of engine. Thank goodness for internet sleuthing.
 

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Is there a reason you would not attach the 3 way valve right at the fuel valve solenoid? They are easy to access and you could place the adaptor between the existing connector and the valve.
Click to expand...

I think it's personal preference/ease. If I did it again there's probably better places, but I'm not disappointed where they are. Unfortunately will be leveraging them in about two weeks.
 
It's really fascinating the variations between versions of the same model of engine. Thank goodness for internet sleuthing.
Click to expand...

Totally agree! In the end as long as you accomplish the needed result, that's what counts with the least amount of pain which = Advil.
 
Peter, I was looking at your picture. Are those solenoids one for each engine? If so, does the fuel line on the right side a smaller diameter or is it just the picture? As long as you have enough room to throw the value 180* mounting direct would work with the right adapters from what I can tell.
 
The one of the left is for the starboard engine. The one on the right is for the Kohler generator and is a smaller gauge. There is another solenoid (not pictured) for the port engine. You can see the fitting to the generator has Teflon tape as the original Westerbeke has been replaced. Seems I read somewhere that Teflon tape was not to be used on fuel lines.

The instructions I posted came from the old pdf manual which appears incomplete but matches my engine model. It's instructing me to put the mixture in the fuel/water separator and run the engine until it stops. No need for a remote tank. It seems Mercruiser provided different instructions at different times....I prefer this approach but wonder if they later changed their minds and determined 2 ounces of oil in the amount of fuel in the filter was not enough to fog the engine.

Also, I need to figure out how to manual stop the flow of fuel. There's no switch for the solenoid and the only instructions I can find are here and they don't match my model:http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/parker-skinner-fuel-solenoid-manual-overide.23308/

The 2 switch settings on my solenoid are "off" and "on" and the arrows appears to be pointing to "off" so does that mean "bypass" is off?
 
That's a good question about the solenoid, If you want to stop the flow of fuel from the tank, could you just disconnect the 12v wire leading to the solenoid so it won't open? I did this to my friend's 260 when we fogged his engine to prevent fuel from going everywhere. I also know the engine will eventually die to fuel starvation without power to it. I found that out the hard way. A mechanic fixed a problem in my old boat but didn't realize he had kicked the wires lose on the fuel solenoid. When I went to start it ran for about a minute then died. Maybe that could be an alternative.

Teflon tape is not supposed to be used because it could shed off and clog things. The connectors are NPT tapered thread so they shouldn't need tape. To come clean, I did use a fuel-safe teflon paste that I put on higher up in the thread on the connector of the 3way fittings but NOT close to the mating surface of the fittings themselves.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. I think that could work.

Apparently, "OFF" is the normal operating position for the manual switch. "On" is for emergencies if the solenoid fails.
 
Peter Snider said:
The instructions I posted came from the old pdf manual which appears incomplete but matches my engine model. It's instructing me to put the mixture in the fuel/water separator and run the engine until it stops. No need for a remote tank. It seems Mercruiser provided different instructions at different times....I prefer this approach but wonder if they later changed their minds and determined 2 ounces of oil in the amount of fuel in the filter was not enough to fog the engine.
Click to expand...

Peter, you can use either the portable tank method or the one where you put the good stuff right into the F/W sep (note, there's more to it than just 2-cycle). Also, you DO NOT run the engine until it stops (either there's a misprint in the manual, or you are misreading it). The engine will NOT stop from the fogging mixture. Follow the specs for the amount of time @ "X" RPM.
 
I appreciate the guidance Dennis.

The instruction to run the engine until it stopped were copied from a manual I downloaded from the following link: http://download.brunswick-marine.co...mercruiser/2002/gasoline/inboard/63079001.pdf

The manual seemed suspect to me because it appears incomplete in sections but it's the only version I found that matched my engine.

It was not the fogging mixture that stopped the engine (like the fog sprays used for carbureted engines). The instructions said to disconnect the fuel line and run the engine until it uses up the fuel mixture in the filter.

It doesn't sound like a great idea to me to run the engine until it's out of fuel. Sounds like a recipe for vapor lock. I think I'll do the remote tank approach.
 
For whatever reason, that is not correct (run till fuel empties out), as you are surmising. If you don't want to do the remote tank, put 2 ounces of 2-cycle, along with an ounce of Startron (or similar) in the F/W Sep... Run engine at about 1,200RPM for 5 minutes and then shut 'er down. Done. Good to go.
 
Thanks for jumping in Lazy Daze! Good to 'see' you. I'm onto season two with the 3-way. Not that I love it (end of season) but I love it (simplicity).

Take care. -Dale
 
I know exactly how you feel, Dale. It's sort of a bittersweet enjoyment. Good to 'see' you, too!
 
Dale was very kind to show me his winterization procedures and his 3 way valve set up. I was on my way to configuring my own version that would connect to my fuel solenoid and I ran into a snag.

As I was planning how everything would connect, with bucket and rag in hand, I disconnected the fuel line from the solenoid and discovered that this can be done with no fuel leaking...not a drop. See picture.

And that's great so maybe I can just connect the remote tank to this hose.

I found an 1/4" to 1/2" NTP adaptor at Home Depot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Male-x-1-4-in-Female-NPT-Coupler-HDA30300AV/100081876. I'll connect the remote fuel tank using the 1/4" quick connect fitting.

I know the intended use is for air tools but it's NTP and brass so it should work, right? I didn't realize from looking at the picture that it came with of rubbery sealant (that dark red stuff)....which I scraped off.

But it did not fit the female hose connecter. The male end was just slightly too big. Just to be safe, I also bought 1/4" to 3/8" version and it was much to small.

I'm sure there answer is simple.....what size is this connector?

Thanks all.
 

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Maybe Dennis can chime in but this may be the same issue Eric ran into. Meaning, because it's a 'fuel fitting' it's different? When I fogged the engine before the 2-way, I actually took the hose to a fitting shop and when I said, "I think this is NPT but this is what I need..." and if what they came back with I don't know what they called it. I should've listened :) Maybe it being a fuel line is the key.
 
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