well now i've done it....windlass finger stud sheared....

If needed, I am replacing mine and have all parts available. My motor housing rotted away. Let me know and I can take pics if needed.
 
Hey Cliff, I have found during my daily profession that "Aerokroil" by Kano works better that PB Blaster. Not knocking PB, just seems kroil is a little better. Available at better parts stores or Amazon. Good luck ,,,
 
Hey Cliff, I have found during my daily profession that "Aerokroil" by Kano works better that PB Blaster. Not knocking PB, just seems kroil is a little better. Available at better parts stores or Amazon. Good luck ,,,

thanks....if I can find it I may give it a try....sounds like you do mechanical work for a living....

cliff
 
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I've been too chicken to try pulling the stud out while its in the water. I promised myself once the boat is home for the winter I need to tackle this. I'll prepare myself for snapping the stud :)
 
I believe the safest way to attempt to unscrew the stud is to remove the cap nut from the stud and pull off the washer, finger, and spring.....then screw a second regular hex nut onto the stud and put the cap nut back onto the stud....then run the regular nut up tight against the cap nut while holding the cap nut from turning.....this causes the regular nut to jamb against the cap nut and locks them both in place....then you can use an open end wrench to turn the bottom regular nut counter clockwise to try and unscrew the stud from the base plate....I would soak the stud for a while in a good penetrating oil beforehand.....

good luck....

cliff
 
Drill a small hole in the cap nut put some penetrating oil in the hole let it set for a day heat it up a little with a propane torch and see if it will come off a little heat will go a long way with something that small.When your ready to put it back together put some never seize on the stud and a new nut.
 
View attachment 50395 View attachment 50394 I've been too chicken to try pulling the stud out while its in the water. I promised myself once the boat is home for the winter I need to tackle this. I'll prepare myself for snapping the stud :)
That stud may not be threaded; rather many were pressed in. My Project 1 windlass had that stud press fit. If it is press fit then it will definitely shear off if you attempt to "unthread".
 
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That stud may not be threaded; rather many were pressed in. My Progress winch had that stud press fit. If it is press fit then it will definitely shear off if you attempt to "unthread".

well that is interesting to know.....wish i knew that earlier.... :( ......the new stud is threaded all the way with a small hex section for a wrench to fit on....

cliff
 
well that is interesting to know.....wish i knew that earlier.... :( ......the new stud is threaded all the way with a small hex section for a wrench to fit on....

cliff
Here you go - note the stud (889) locking set-screw (888); that is how you tell it is a stud and not screw. BTW, that set screw is near impossible to get out without heat.
Windlass assy.jpg
 
If needed, I am replacing mine and have all parts available. My motor housing rotted away. Let me know and I can take pics if needed.
If u want to sell the finger, I'll take it as a backup if it's decent.
 
Here you go - note the stud (889) locking set-screw (888); that is how you tell it is a stud and not screw. BTW, that set screw is near impossible to get out without heat.
View attachment 50403
I checked mine and it is the threaded version. I will be double nutting, heating and possibly using my impact once the boat is in my driveway. If I get really ambitious this winter I should make a bracket and mount the shaft in double shear. I will have to remove the unit from the boat to machine it. Anyway- good luck to Cliff - Keep us posted.
Mark
 
hi guys, all good suggestions so far. Be cautious using heat on that stud/ bolt. Keep in mind the whole assembly is on fiberglas. Heat transfers quickly, and it wouldn't take much to melt the area the windlass is mounted on. IMO, if you want to use heat, removal of the whole assembly would be best. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Here you go - note the stud (889) locking set-screw (888); that is how you tell it is a stud and not screw. BTW, that set screw is near impossible to get out without heat.
View attachment 50403

thanks for the diagram....I think I have the threaded version of the stud...I don't remember seeing a set screw in the base plate....we are going to the boat this coming WE so i'll see if I can make the repairs then....
 
Left handed dril bits, and drill pilot hole for a easy out with the left handed bit. so if it bites, it backs it out on its own.

if not you have hole the right size for a ease out. then remove. if threads mess up helicoil.


if none of this works, swap to all chain, and dont use the figer at all.
 
Can you take an intact one to a 3D printing place and have one made up? I saw that done on an episode of Wheeler Dealers. They needed a spacer fabricated to raise the suspension of some car they were rehabbing and they sketched it out and took it to a shop. They designed it on the computer and made two of them up. The guy charged them $100 a piece. That sounded too inexpensive to me but it worked and took about 30 minutes.
 
Here you go - note the stud (889) locking set-screw (888); that is how you tell it is a stud and not screw. BTW, that set screw is near impossible to get out without heat.
View attachment 50403


I found a pic of the windlass on a 2001 340 like mine on the net....you can tell from the pic that there is no set screw holding the stud in place on this model....so it looks like this model uses a threaded stud...

cliff

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the progress 1000 is made 2 ways as spoke about above. the finger, spring, and studs are different.

the set screw is POST 2002, and the other is pre 2002. when ordering parts.
 
Update - Here is the modification I made to strengthen my Lofrans unit. The stud broke and had to be drilled out along with one of the bolts that hold the cap on. I decided to make a new threaded stud with a wrench flat in the middle BUT make it longer and add the bracket you see to support the end of the new stud. To remove the stud I remove the two socket caps and lift the bracket up. I really don't think I should have to remove the stud as the first on lasted 18 years before bending and this is a better design - imho. I may pretty it up a bit and will have it anodized so I am ready to reinstall for the sping time.
Mark
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