Official 215 Express Thread

We trailer so it has never been an issue. I was replacing the dash bezel this weekend and it got me to wondering. The pump has only come once while we were boating and it was a day when we were in and out of the water as were the dogs. That time I flipped the switch at the helm and was surprised by the amount of water that was pumped out. I will check with the hose to be sure the float is working properly.

We went to Lake Mendota this past weekend as the Miss. River was high and there was crazy debris floating downstream. We pulled into a nice little cove and practiced anchoring. I just switched from 3' of coated chain and 150' of rope to 15' of 5/16" galvanized chain and 200' of rope. What is the best deployment method to keep the chain off the bow while paying it out?

Rgory - you shouldn't have any water in your bilge.....should be bone dry unless you put it there yourself.
 
OllieC,

I am super new to boating and super paranoid that something is going to go wrong so I always check the bilge after we have been out for a bit and it is always dry. The one exception was the day where we were in and out of the water a lot and that water worked its way down below. Thank you for your hope.

Curious us if anyone has any insights on anchoring technique
 
What kind of anchoring do you plan on? Rafting up, stern to beach, solo, tidal, deep water, shallow water... lots of variables depending on what your doing.


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Mark,

It is mainly shallow water anchoring in bays or on the river. I cloud the vet the old setup to stick last year, it seemed to skip along the bottom even with all of the rode payed out. I also had two unsuccessful anchoring attempts on Lake Michigan in shallow water 8-20'. The new ground tackle held the boat great this past weeekend on Lake Mendota in 8' of water, I just didn't like how the chain could easily damage the bow. Should I deploy the anchor and chain over the bow rail? What about during retrieval, what is a good technique to avoid damaging the gel coat
 
I deploy and retrieve under the bow rail. I also kneel on the bow, I never stand upright. I only have 10' of 1/4" chain. Keeping the rope and chain off the rub rail and glass is just a learning curve. Sometimes it can't be avoided depending on conditions. Sounds stupid but practice different positions while on the trailer in the driveway. It's a calm, no pressure situation. It also helps if you can have someone bump the boat forward while the anchor is being retrieved. Patience is your friend, panic will always lead to bad things. Hope this helps...


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After tying off the anchor on the bow cleat, you could run the remaining rode along the side of the boat (outside the bow rail) to a mid-ship or stern cleat. When ready to depart, untie from the bow cleat and retrieve the anchor over the side of the boat. When we do this, we will then store the anchor on the deck, usually on an old towel to protect against scratching. It fits nicely under one of the jump seats next to the engine hatch.
 
After tying off the anchor on the bow cleat, you could run the remaining rode along the side of the boat (outside the bow rail) to a mid-ship or stern cleat. When ready to depart, untie from the bow cleat and retrieve the anchor over the side of the boat. When we do this, we will then store the anchor on the deck, usually on an old towel to protect against scratching. It fits nicely under one of the jump seats next to the engine hatch.




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A 1'-ish piece of black, 3/4" heater hose (kinda blends into the SS rail)... Slit it, then slip it on the rail, just off center on a straight part of the rail. You won't be able to pull the chain over top of it because the hose will rotate around the rail (zip ties can help). But it does allow you to pull the chain up one arm's length, rest the chain on the rail, drop the arm's length of chain into the locker, then repeat. It at least helps to protect things. Once I get to the rope, I step back and pull the rope right over the rail (sort of like a bow roller). I never removed the hose - left it there all the time. Speaking of bow rollers, adding one (or an anchor roller) is another idea.

Just thinking outloud here... Another "quick fix" might be to cut a slit (maybe 1/2") in a 1" or 1-1/4" piece of PVC. The 1/2" slit should open up enough to slide over the bow rail. Try a smaller slit, first (or maybe it has to be bigger?). It's possible that the slit will be narrow enough that as the PVC rotates around the rail (as the chain is pulled over it), that the chain will never actually contact the rail. Maybe some zip ties or hose clamps can be used to squeeze the slit closed some, too. Sort of a "poor man's bow roller". I dunno - like I said, just a thought. Another thought... if you softened the PVC slightly with a heat gun, it would become more flexible and you could definitely use a smaller slit. Do it just right (amount of heat), and it should spring right back to it's original slit opening. Or use a little more heat and squeeze the slit closed.
 
All good replies, I appreciate everyone's help and have some work to do. I think my poor experience last year has just left me with some bad memories. I will start in he driveway and on the trailer and then may head out on a quiet day when I don't have to worry about an audience.

I also find it odd that beaching is not a good practice but it seems everyone beaches their boat at the sandbar.
 
I'm assuming you have an anchor locker at the bow. If you're worried about chain rubbing on your gel coat while retrieving your anchor, install a bow roller. This type of bow roller however is not designed to be used to hold the boat while anchored, it will bend if there are any waves. It is designed for deployment and retrieval. Saves the gel coat and the back.


The scope of the anchor rode is typically 7:1 - seven feet of rode for every 1ft of water.


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Here's some pics if you haven't seen them in the other thread, of my infinity carpet in a Weekender 215. (note: the center carpet looks a little crooked towards the back because it isn't snapped - I had to reattach the snap to the floor and was waiting for the caulk to dry.)

IMG_3485.jpg


IMG_3486.jpg
 
Yes! Looks awesome!! Was it less or more then the replacement carpet?


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Yes! Looks awesome!! Was it less or more then the replacement carpet?


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That I do not know. I am assuming its more.

I knew what I wanted and didn't price anything else out. The big thing, not just the look, is the drying and cleanup ability of this style of carpet. Last year on the river with family and friend when we overnighted, my carpet was soaked all night and into the morning. The Infinity should eliminate that. Plus, kids eating Cheetos, drinks being spilled, etc. should just wipe right up.
 
Looks very nice......this brings back a lot of good memories of when we had our 215EC.....we really enjoyed that boat.....

cliff
 
I have a 215 sundowner and I have looked on the internet everywhere I could think for an answer and can't find it. I want to run a electrical conduit through the existing PVC conduit that starts in the engine compartment. I found that the pvc runs in the floor but can't find the other end. There is more than enough room to do what I want I just can't figure out where the other end is. It's a 2000 four winns 215 sundowner.
 
Looks very nice......this brings back a lot of good memories of when we had our 215EC.....we really enjoyed that boat.....

cliff

Thanks Cliff. I'd rather be in your boat......pun intended.

I should have my SeaDek on by next Tuesday and may snap pictures when she is on Lake Superior the week of the 3rd. I just wish I had an updated steering wheel to help finish it off, but I've spent to much on her this year. The Admiral is a little weary.
 
I recently replaced my freshwater pump which was cracked when I bought the boat. Is it normal for the pump to run each time a tap is used? I am assuming so as there is no pressure tank, I just wanted to be sure because I know the pump had a pressure switch.
 
I recently replaced my freshwater pump which was cracked when I bought the boat. Is it normal for the pump to run each time a tap is used? I am assuming so as there is no pressure tank, I just wanted to be sure because I know the pump had a pressure switch.

yes, that is normal.....once the faucet is shut off the pump will run long enough (couple seconds) to pressurize the system and will shut off until a faucet is opened again.....

cliff
 
Dennis, hopefully you'll see this...

Every now and then while at idle speed while under way the RPMs will pick up about 200 and then settle back in to normal RPM. It doesn't do it all the time but is getting to be more frequent... is this the IAC starting to go?


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