Official 290 Sundancer Thread

Cane, Take a deep breath it will be ok. Been there done that. On the rusted through hose clamp? Did you have a survey? Did it mention the clamps and hoses? Now, when you go back to the boat if you have time check EVERY hose and clamp. I would change every one of them. Even if it was 2 or 3 every time you go to the boat. Clean the bilge now. It will save you time and effort as you check out the problems. It is possible the new bilge pump is defective. Check to see if it will turn on. The connections you took apart will need someone other than me to talk with you as I have never been in the engine room of a 90's 290. Believe it or not once you get your boat dialed in a lot of the suck goes away and the fun begins. Good luck CC. jc
 
Cane- check the wiring diagram in the manual. It should tell you what color wires are for what. I'll have to re-read your post and comment more tomorrow.
 
JC3 said:
Cane, Take a deep breath it will be ok. Been there done that. On the rusted through hose clamp? Did you have a survey? Did it mention the clamps and hoses? Now, when you go back to the boat if you have time check EVERY hose and clamp. I would change every one of them. Even if it was 2 or 3 every time you go to the boat. Clean the bilge now. It will save you time and effort as you check out the problems. It is possible the new bilge pump is defective. Check to see if it will turn on. The connections you took apart will need someone other than me to talk with you as I have never been in the engine room of a 90's 290. Believe it or not once you get your boat dialed in a lot of the suck goes away and the fun begins. Good luck CC. jc
Click to expand...

Yes I had a survey.... the hose and clamp was an easy fix. I really just need to know if the aft bilge pump is connected in any way to the wiring in the cabin bilge compartment and effected when I disconnected those wires.....or if I have two separate problems. Like I said, both circuit breakers are popped, so it will definitely not turn on.

Ive looked at the schematic but i am not good at reading these things.
uVpTbdl.png
 
What year did sea ray start putting multiple pumps in the cabin bilge area?

My 2011 260 Sundancer had the dual pump inside. One in the sump box and one outside w/alarm.

The new to me 1998 290 Sundancer only has one bilge in the sump box....... no where else inside that I know of.
 
Little Ducky said:
What year did sea ray start putting multiple pumps in the cabin bilge area?

My 2011 260 Sundancer had the dual pump inside. One in the sump box and one outside w/alarm.

The new to me 1998 290 Sundancer only has one bilge in the sump box....... no where else inside that I know of.
Click to expand...

Not sure...I definitely know there are at least two pumps though (one inside sump box and one Tsunami automatic outside). Theres a blue plastic box next to the Tsunami, assuming its a float switch.
 
From the wiring diagram:

Black = ground
Brown = Foreward bilge pump
Brown/Orange = Forward sump pump
Brown / Yellow = Float switch

Don't think it's related to your rear bilge pump. If the fuse is blowing check for an obstruction in the pump or a loose connection causing a short.
 
BillK2632 said:
From the wiring diagram:

Black = ground
Brown = Foreward bilge pump
Brown/Orange = Forward sump pump
Brown / Yellow = Float switch

Don't think it's related to your rear bilge pump. If the fuse is blowing check for an obstruction in the pump or a loose connection causing a short.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much.... this gives me a starting point. I'll get a new sump pump and float this week and replace. That way I know it's good. I'm still a little confused where these fuses should be, because it appears they should be in line...

Per other advice, I'll suck everything out of the rear bilge and clean best I can and hope that changes what's going on there.

i sincerely appreciate everyone's help.
 
BillK2632 said:
From the wiring diagram:

Black = ground
Brown = Foreward bilge pump
Brown/Orange = Forward sump pump
Brown / Yellow = Float switch

Don't think it's related to your rear bilge pump. If the fuse is blowing check for an obstruction in the pump or a loose connection causing a short.
Click to expand...

Well, I broke my fifth metacarpal last week and needed surgery, but two days later was at the boat trying to fix this. Happy to say, everything worked once I plugged it all in with a new sump pump and float. The rear bilge pump also worked after i sucked all the water and oil out. With my new sump pump, it was a little different, so had to engineer and seal with silicone last night to get it to work.

Few more questions for anyone who might know:

1. Is the 800 GPH pump what came with the boat? I noticed when i turned it on, it wasn't that powerful and water was coming back into the box from the line. This could have been because it wasn't totally sealed yet, but had me thinking. I'm also concerned the line is clogged at some point. How would i check/fix that? I turned the key in my toilet and it says the tank is empty, although I haven't actually gone and got it sucked to be absolutely sure since I purchased the boat.

2. Can someone tell me what the other two lines are for coming from the box? Its a weird setup...I'm pointing at the two outlets on the box in the pic, and have no idea what those lines are for.

3. Recommendations on cleaner and methods to clean the bilge.....especially under and behind the motors. I had a big gear lube oil leak that made the entire bottom full of oil, and noticed parts of the fiberglass in the bilge are now "flaking' off, so i need to get it cleaned ASAP.

Thank you all - glad i was able to get it worked out with all of your help!

tyduHGh.jpg
 
I'm not sure on the 800gph pump spec but if you can check the parts manual for your boat it should tell you what was there from the factory. I have found that parts manual to be extremely helpful for a lot of things. Download it or keep a print copy handy.

Not sure what you mean by turning the key for the toilet. The sump should not discharge into your head tank. It should discharge overboard unless maybe you have a gray water system for shower and sink drains?? I did not. My shower and galley sink would go to the sump and discharge over board. But because the line was "uphill" not all of the water could be pumped out. Some would remain in the line BUT there was a rubber one way valve between the pump and the hose so the water would not drain back into the box. Otherwise, the pump would cycle and pump out, drain back in, pump out, and so on. Should not do that.

I'm pretty sure those other lines are the three "inputs" for water to drain INTO the sump. Shower, galley sink and A/C condensation drain. Odd looking fitting but it looks like all 3 turn into one large drain into the sump. The head sink goes directly overboard if I recall.

As for cleaning the bilge, I would probably use some rags or an old mop and some simple green so long as you aren't discharging it into the water. Otherwise pour some biodegradable bilge cleaner in there and run it so it swashes around then rinse, wipe, repeat.

Hope you recover from surgery soon! Boat maintenance is hard enough when you're not injured!
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the info on parts manual - had the owners manual but just downloaded this one and you are right, it will be very beneficial to have.

My mistake, just assumed the water went to the holding tank. Once I reassemble, if I'm getting back flow then I'll assume I have a line blockage and have to figure out how to clear that. The manual says it should be 750 GPH, so the one I have should be sufficient.
 
You gotta be kidding me......I hooked everything up, worked like a champ, and when i went to put the top on the sump box, found out the newer version of the 800 GPH Rule Sump Pump is too tall for that box!!

Guess I got the pump and float for nothing, because the only option i see at this point is to buy a new box...
 
CaneCorso said:
Well, I broke my fifth metacarpal last week and needed surgery, but two days later was at the boat trying to fix this. Happy to say, everything worked once I plugged it all in with a new sump pump and float. The rear bilge pump also worked after i sucked all the water and oil out. With my new sump pump, it was a little different, so had to engineer and seal with silicone last night to get it to work.

Few more questions for anyone who might know:

1. Is the 800 GPH pump what came with the boat? I noticed when i turned it on, it wasn't that powerful and water was coming back into the box from the line. This could have been because it wasn't totally sealed yet, but had me thinking. I'm also concerned the line is clogged at some point. How would i check/fix that? I turned the key in my toilet and it says the tank is empty, although I haven't actually gone and got it sucked to be absolutely sure since I purchased the boat.

2. Can someone tell me what the other two lines are for coming from the box? Its a weird setup...I'm pointing at the two outlets on the box in the pic, and have no idea what those lines are for.

3. Recommendations on cleaner and methods to clean the bilge.....especially under and behind the motors. I had a big gear lube oil leak that made the entire bottom full of oil, and noticed parts of the fiberglass in the bilge are now "flaking' off, so i need to get it cleaned ASAP.

Thank you all - glad i was able to get it worked out with all of your help!

tyduHGh.jpg
Click to expand...

So those fittings on the left side of the box are for sinks and the shower on lake boats. My boat was ordered for a zero discharge lake (Lake George NY). The Galley sink, shower, and cockpit sink drain into the box through those fitting as well as the AC condensate. The outflow on my boat went to the holding tank, but I've since had a new through hull added for the box to pump over the side. It was easier/cheaper than re-connecting every sink to its original through hull. The outflow line should have a rubber check valve in it. There's a thread here whre you can contact Rule and they will send you some for free. If that gets gummed up and stays closed it is hard to pump out. If it gets gummed up or partially blocked open, any remaining water that didn't make it out, drains back into the box (very minimal).
 
I had a good thread on this board when I swapped out my sump box and pump but unfortunately Photobucket removed all of my pics. What a shame. So much content is gone.
 
Cincy Aquaholic said:
I had a good thread on this board when I swapped out my sump box and pump but unfortunately Photobucket removed all of my pics. What a shame. So much content is gone.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info... trust your judgement, so I'll order one of the Atwood boxes tonight. Makes me son mad I paid more for this crappy pump and float that I won't be able to use than a whole new box! I'll just have to make a hole for the AC line.
 
Got the Atwood box with Sahara pump and works much better. When I went to put it in, had more water in the forward bilge, with disgusting brown stuff floating in it. I seriously hope this is not from the holding tank, and not sure if it's even possible, but I cannot see where the water is coming from. I'm not even sure if there is anything in the holding tank, but gonna have it pumped just to be sure.
 
I've replaced all plugs, wires, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor on both engines for tune up, and still getting slow starting on my portside. It's not started at all without putting it in neutral and throttling up after an hour of being anchored and listening to music, so I can only assume it's the battery. I have three batteries, so this confuses me a bit, as I assume one is for accessories but I could be wrong.

I've spent a week reading about batteries, and there seems to be a lot of conflicting info so thought I would ask here. Opinions? I was leaning toward the optima blue top D31M. Don't think I really need three, but maybe I do?

I also want to start replacing water hoses. Are there complete kits out there I Can buy for each motor?
 
CaneCorso said:
I've replaced all plugs, wires, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor on both engines for tune up, and still getting slow starting on my portside. It's not started at all without putting it in neutral and throttling up after an hour of being anchored and listening to music, so I can only assume it's the battery. I have three batteries, so this confuses me a bit, as I assume one is for accessories but I could be wrong.

I've spent a week reading about batteries, and there seems to be a lot of conflicting info so thought I would ask here. Opinions? I was leaning toward the optima blue top D31M. Don't think I really need three, but maybe I do?
Click to expand...

My 98 290 DA 3 battery arrangement is 2 for the port/house and 1 for the starboard.

Is your battery charger on when plugged into shore power?

The switch to my battery charger in my 98 290 DA is labeled AC Inverter I think.
 
Yes, battery charger is always connected when shore power is available (and on when I use generator).
 
Well, I replaced the group 27 batteries I had with three of these -
https://www.samsclub.com/sams/durac...rv-battery-group-size-31dtmagm/prod3590232.ip

Still slow starting for portside, and it's consistently reading 13v versus 14 I get on starboard. Not sure why, and don't know if there is something else I should check/replace or if this is normal. I just want to be able to listen to music on the lake without having to start my generator....I would think battery life should last a decent amount of time with three of these...
 
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