Late 90's 270 Sundancer Thread

I cut out most of the fiberglass behind the dash to accommodate the screen and the new gauges. I added gauges for the water and holding tank. If you use a plate stiff enough you don't need the fiberglass behind except where the screws hold it in place. I think the new dash gives the cockpit a far younger look than the dated old style.


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Our 270 came with triple batteries. I'll climb inside her a take some pics in the next couple days. All three batteries sit directly in front of hot water heater. Not real handy come winterization time. I've threatened to relocate them to the generator compartment, since we have plenty of room there and no genny.
 
Has anyone tried flipping the trim insert ( celery stick) in the forward position on a bravo 3 for a 270 dancer? And what did that help with ? Also is there suppose to be some kind of weather striping or gasket on the inside of the engine hatch?
 
Late response to this one, but I made a new dash to accommodate an integrated 7" chart plotter.

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That looks sweet! Nice job!



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Finally purchased a new trailer!


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I saw the few threads in here about this already but I wanted to throw what I've experienced into the prop talk part of this. My boat came with 22 pitch props. I sometimes run a pretty heavy load, ie 800lbs of people (5ish) lots of water, fuel, and my dinghy. Loaded up good like that I have to send a couple people into the cabin to plane off. And I cruise at 25-26 @ 3500rpms. With just myself and first mate at the same RPM we run 27-28.

So I bought a set of 20P bravo 3 props that are cupped, they have the L designation after the part number. Supposedly they are supposed to act like 21P props. Anyway with light load the boat JUMPS up on plane without even trying. Runs 26-27 at 3500rpm. So maybeeeee 1 or less mph less. According to prop slip calculators that is less slip.

So is it better to run 1mph slower at the same RPM while having less prop slip? Because isn't that more efficiency? I guess I'm thinking out loud here because what I really need to do is run the same RPM with both and look at my GPH meter and see if I'm using less gas at the same rpm.

What are you guys using as your most efficient prop setup? Anybody tried several different sizes and types?

Also I am going to say it's hard to get a good reading on these numbers because everything changes so much day to day. I'm always in a river which varies with flow and wind so much. There is no way I can change those B3 props in the water so I could get a good same day comparison. That's what I did with my old boat and B1 since it was easy(er) to change in the water.
 
My galley faucet is dripping. I can't figure out how to get is apart or what brand it is. Someone has had to do this already. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!

Bryan
 
I am trying to order a camper top for my 2000 270 sda. Everything i find basically says that they don't reproduce it for the 2000. Yet from what i can tell the 1999 is the same boat. Apparently my boat was an arizona boat and they used a different supplier for the canvas and the supports. Anyone know why i couldn't replace the entire setup with a complete 1999 kit with new supports? thanks!
 
I am trying to order a camper top for my 2000 270 sda. Everything i find basically says that they don't reproduce it for the 2000. Yet from what i can tell the 1999 is the same boat. Apparently my boat was an arizona boat and they used a different supplier for the canvas and the supports. Anyone know why i couldn't replace the entire setup with a complete 1999 kit with new supports? thanks!

If you search the threads for "Arizona Boats" you will find you are not alone. The short answer is that they were patterned a little differently. I don't know whether even the new supports would work, but you would have a heck of a time getting them attached. There are some canvas people on the threads, and I would find them and ask the question of the pros.

Bryan
 
I'm trying to figure out the transom shower on my new to me '99 270. When my water system is on I turn the hot and cold knobs and I get nothing. Additionally there is a rubber sealed rocker switch that doesn't do anything either. What am I missing something?

I posted this in the sport cruisers section but thankfully Bryan directed me to this thread. I'm excited to be a first time Sea Ray owner and a member of this forum. Thanks.

 
Hmm. No rubber sealed rocker on ours. Do the hot and cold supply lines have water pressure?
 
We had the same problem. Grohe was the brand and replacement valve cartridges ran about 100 bucks a piece.
I found a reasonably (40 Bucks) priced lavatory faucet at a home improvement store and replace the whole unit.
 
I can't be sure about the water pressure, I get nothing. I briefly looked in the engine compartment the other day. I swear the cold water line "blue" goes to a seacock and a thruhull near the ac pick up and the red somewhere near the port side motor. There is also a red and black wire that I haven't completely traced yet but I think is running to the motor. Would there ever be an option for the shower to pick up cold water from outside the boat and warm water from the engine block cooling water while the motor is running? I tried it with the motor running but nothing again. It sounds crazy but practical at the same time.

The shower I'm talking about is in a box on the wall of my stern storage locker. It almost looks like a telephone. I'm not sure we're talking about the same type of fixture.
 
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I can't be sure about the water pressure, I get nothing. I briefly looked in the engine compartment the other day. I swear the cold water line "blue" goes to a seacock and a thruhull near the ac pick up and the red somewhere near the port side motor. There is also a red and black wire that I haven't completely traced yet but I think is running to the motor. Would there ever be an option for the shower to pick up cold water from outside the boat and warm water from the engine block cooling water while the motor is running? I tried it with the motor running but nothing again. It sounds crazy but practical at the same time.

The shower I'm talking about is in a box on the wall of my stern storage locker. It almost looks like a telephone. I'm not sure we're talking about the same type of fixture.

Take pictures and post them. As much of the line as you can get as well as the actual shower.

Bryan
 
We had the same problem. Grohe was the brand and replacement valve cartridges ran about 100 bucks a piece.
I found a reasonably (40 Bucks) priced lavatory faucet at a home improvement store and replace the whole unit.

I did figure it out and took pic. The cartridge is a Grohe 45 882 000. I got in on Amazon for $18 with 2 day shipping. I also took pictures for the thread (sorry, they came out huge):

The top cap screws off, though it is likely to require significant force to loosen after all these years.
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The trim pieces come off individually or as a group, and they have only one orientation. If they get messed up, it can take a while until you can reorient them, so be aware.
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There is a brass screw that allows the rest of the knob to be removed. Again, mine was stuck.
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The knob will then just slide off, giving access to the cartridge.
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You have to use a wrench to remove the cartridge. Again, it is stuck. I had to use a lot of force before it loosened.
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All of the necessary pieces.
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Lastly, and VERY IMPORTANTLY, this split ring sits on the cartridge, and allows the knob to spin properly. You must reuse the one off your old cartridge. You can see where it goes in the picture above. It is plastic, and simply slides on to the cartridge with a little bit of opening at the split, but be gentle.
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Reassemble in reverse order, and no more leaks.

Bryan
 
Well I figured it out. The pump works as an accessory when the ignition is turned backwards. Just like the radio but in the port engine. It definitely pulls water from thru the hull. The wife ain't gonna go for this so I'm planning on plumbing it into the freshwater system. Any advice, links and threads to help me get this done? Thanks guys
 

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