Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Not sure but my hot water doesn't last as long as I feel like it should either.was gonna just replace the whole damn thing eventually
 
That's a bit odd. I would suggest taking that thing out of the mix and bypass it to see what you get. With a new element you should be getting hot water. Do you get good water flow through the faucets? On mine it is just input and output lines connected directly to the heater.

The issue I had with mine was on the input side. The brass connection that screws into the heater has a one way valve to keep hot water from backflowing into the cold lines. I took it off and soaked it in white vinegar for a while to free it up and it fixed my issues.

What happened with mine was frustrating. I would turn on the hot faucet (any), and water would trickle and stop flowing. It turned out to be that one way valve. First issue on the boat that didn't cost me anything other than a cup of vinegar out of the pantry....


Has anyone replaced this part on their hot water heater? I get hot water for about 10 secs before it turns cool. I have replaced the heater element and the thermostat and still no change. I called Atwood and they did not show this part so maybe this is installed by SeaRay. Anyways it appears to be a temperature control valve. If you replaced yours can you tell me your symptoms and if you have the part number that would be great...
 
Ok. That part was the issue. I found I could get a rebuild kit from another user here, watts lf 70a and a rebuild kit. I also saw some members say they took it out completely. I ordered the part but removed the inner thermostat part completely to test. I have hot water. Wife very happy. Me too. I'll put new part in when it arrives.


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It is called a mixing valve. It is in place so that you don't get scalded with hot water. It mixes cold water in with the hot water as it coke out of the water heater so that it keeps the hot water coming out under a certain temp. I wouldn't remove it completely because if you make a run with the boat the port motor heats the hot water to around 160deg (that's the temp the motor is running at) that is substantially hotter than a home water heater, plumbing code is 108deg but most people want it a little warmer than that. The point is 160 is very hot and it you have people (especially little ones on the boat) and they turn on the hot water after a run it could burn them.
 
I'm having an interesting issue. No a/c coming outta the vent in the bathroom. Comes out fine everywhere else. The duct seems to be attached at the back, any ideas?
 
I just finished up Infinity Woven PVC flooring on another 340 (I have done 7 of them now).

Some pics:

cabin2.jpg
cockpit.jpg
IMG_3381.jpg
IMG_3398.jpg
IMG_3403.jpg
IMG_3405.jpg
 
Looks great, i thought about putting that down in the cabin to replace the canvas cover. The kids are brutal on the carpet. PM me pricing for the cabin on a 320 if you don't mind.
 
Hi all

Just signed a contract on a 2008 34 Sundancer.Please reply with any recommendations and suggestions or things that I should be aware of at time of survey.Thank You in advance
 
Hi all

Just signed a contract on a 2008 34 Sundancer.Please reply with any recommendations and suggestions or things that I should be aware of at time of survey.Thank You in advance
My best advice would be to use a competent surveyor with a solid reputation - it's worth the $$$. The surveyor that went through our 340 prior to completing the sale in 2013 went through the boat with a fine tooth comb. He spent about 8 hrs on the boat, both on the water and on the hard. He issued a 20-25 page report when he completed the evaluation of the boat. The short answer, "things I should be aware of at the time that of the survey?" is "Everything." Since it's impossible for most of us at the the time of purchase to know "everything" the surveyor becomes that much more important. He works for you, not the broker. I know my boat extremely well now that I've owned it a few years, but I sure didn't know much about it when I bought it. The survey was crucial.
 
Looking at getting back into boating as I now live in San Diego again... 2004 to 08 340 seems like a doable boat on the bay and for coastal cruising. Question: How durable are the (ZF) Transmissions on these V Drives.. what service do you need to do to them? I figure changing Trans Fluid once every 300 hours. I assume from the threads V Drives are the ONLY way to go docked year around in salt water??? Any help most appreciated!!! Divers that change zincs inwater and clean the bottom of your boat... what a concept!!!
 
42mm fooson for over head, and shorty 3156?s for the floors on a 2002 430
 
Lost anchor Please help. I know there are some posts out there regarding this topic but there not many. I'm hoping there's some new info out there. I have a 2004 340 da. Lost my anchor. I've been doing some research it seems like i had a Kodiack but I need to call searay back with hull number to be sure. But over weekend I tried a delta 22 lb and this doesn't fit. It hits the bow before all the way up. I was thinking maybe he 35 lb would work but not sure. I did call south coast marine today (they make the kodiak) they told me 5-7 weeks they also want me to be sure that's what boat was built with. I'm working on that as stated above. Let me know if anyone has any other ideas. Thanks
 
Anyone know what led bulbs I can use in the cockpit of an 06 340. And also where to buy them. Thank you

41mm or 42mm festoon bulbs will fit. Any LED source including eBay or Amazon. Blue is very popular but not as bright when you need to see what you are doing.

My 2004 340SDA had Perko's all around and took the same bulb although I replaced them with tri-color sealed LED fixtures. I got these from Amazon.

-Kevin
 
Looking at getting back into boating as I now live in San Diego again... 2004 to 08 340 seems like a doable boat on the bay and for coastal cruising. Question: How durable are the (ZF) Transmissions on these V Drives.. what service do you need to do to them? I figure changing Trans Fluid once every 300 hours. I assume from the threads V Drives are the ONLY way to go docked year around in salt water??? Any help most appreciated!!! Divers that change zincs inwater and clean the bottom of your boat... what a concept!!!

Great boat but we're a little biased here.

There are pluses to both v-drives and stern drives. The stern drives offer more performance and better fuel economy. V-drives offer better near dock maneuverability and are more economical from a maintenance perspective.

The Bravo 3's for stern drives were known for corrosion issues however if properly maintained will hold up for a long time.

-Kevin
 
Lost anchor Please help. I know there are some posts out there regarding this topic but there not many. I'm hoping there's some new info out there. I have a 2004 340 da. Lost my anchor. I've been doing some research it seems like i had a Kodiack but I need to call searay back with hull number to be sure. But over weekend I tried a delta 22 lb and this doesn't fit. It hits the bow before all the way up. I was thinking maybe he 35 lb would work but not sure. I did call south coast marine today (they make the kodiak) they told me 5-7 weeks they also want me to be sure that's what boat was built with. I'm working on that as stated above. Let me know if anyone has any other ideas. Thanks

http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/Company1729/1C1_24_74DEIPR7EIA.pdf

Look at page 2. Looks like a 25 lb plow.
 

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