Official 1980's Weekender/Sundancer 300 thread

Just left the boat: If this is correct, 17 inch wiper blades. I can only go by the last owner's fitting. Hope this helps.
 
Just left the boat: If this is correct, 17 inch wiper blades. I can only go by the last owner's fitting. Hope this helps.

Thanks! does that size seem to do the job?
 
yes, it has done the job well.
 
New to the forum and finding out it's a wealth of knowledge.
 
New to the forum and finding out it's a wealth of knowledge.
Welcome aboard!!

When you get a chance, if you'll add your boat's year and a little more mechanical detail to your on-screen info, that'll help folks provide focused answers if you ask questions in this thread or elsewhere.

How long have you had your classic?
 
Welcome to Classic 300, if there's anything you need help with just ask.

Do tell us more about your boat.
 
Thanks for the welcome

It's a 1989 Sundancer 300 that I bought as a turn key boat. It's rigged for fishing the Great Lakes with: Rod holders, Downriggers, and the requisite electronics. It's also rigged for cruising with full canvas and a dingy on swim platform davits. The boat's all original, everything works and is in great shape for it's age. As far as I can tell, the only thing it did not come with is a generator. I keep it slipped in Duluth MN.
 
The boat is new to me this year. I drove from Minnesota to Michigan last December to look at and buy the boat. I had it transported to Minnesota last May and have been using it as often as my adult responsibilities will allow.
 
Hey, all! I've reviewed the manuals and my own historical notes but would appreciate a reality check on part numbers in case I should change anything for latest/greatest/newest/whatever.

For the 5.7 engines
WIX 33225 fuel filter
WIX 51069 oil filter (SCORPIO, please forgive the dumb question: is this or an equivalent compatible with the remote system or did you use something completely different? Had a lot of unexpected things happen so haven't installed yet.)

I plan to use Quicksilver 25W40 synthetic this time; prior, I just stocked up on what FM's dad suggested on short notice when he announced the first oil change party to do all three boats at once. We've experienced no problems with whatever it was, but I don't mind investing in the Merc recommendation.

I confess delinquency on one item: we haven't changed the fuel filters up under the cockpit deck in each corner. I think one of you had posted that you use FRAM C1110PL....?

Also, recommended trans fluid is Dexron II. Is there any reason to use something other than the current gen Dexron VI/equivalent?
 
I used Fram PH 30 filters from Walmart on my 87 300 Sundancer so whatever that WIX cross reference is would be the right number.
I also used Mercruiser 25 W40 synthetic blend in those motors. It's a couple of bucks more, but not a problem for me when doing once a year oil changes. I added a bottle of STP to each motor every time I put fresh oil in because it has ZDDP in it, it leaves a nice coating on internal surfaces for cold starts, and it costs less than 3 bucks a bottle at Walmart so even if it only made me feel good it was cheap enough.
The Fram number you have is correct. The last few years I had the boat it became hard to find those cartridges. I think Fram may have discontinued them, but I was able to get the aftermarket brand almost anywhere. I can't remember the name and number of the aftermarket cartridges, but let me know if you have a problem finding them and I'll look through my old stuff and see if I can get the info for you.
I also had 10 Micron fuel/water separators mounted on each motor. If you do too, the numbers for those are right on those filters in pretty big numbers.
My 300 DA had I/O's so there was no transmission fluid. I used Merc's 90 weight drive oil in those drives.
There was nothing special about the fluid I used in the power steering pump.
 
I used Fram PH 30 filters from Walmart on my 87 300 Sundancer so whatever that WIX cross reference is would be the right number.
I also used Mercruiser 25 W40 synthetic blend in those motors. It's a couple of bucks more, but not a problem for me when doing once a year oil changes. I added a bottle of STP to each motor every time I put fresh oil in because it has ZDDP in it, it leaves a nice coating on internal surfaces for cold starts, and it costs less than 3 bucks a bottle at Walmart so even if it only made me feel good it was cheap enough.
The Fram number you have is correct. The last few years I had the boat it became hard to find those cartridges. I think Fram may have discontinued them, but I was able to get the aftermarket brand almost anywhere. I can't remember the name and number of the aftermarket cartridges, but let me know if you have a problem finding them and I'll look through my old stuff and see if I can get the info for you.
I also had 10 Micron fuel/water separators mounted on each motor. If you do too, the numbers for those are right on those filters in pretty big numbers.
My 300 DA had I/O's so there was no transmission fluid. I used Merc's 90 weight drive oil in those drives.
There was nothing special about the fluid I used in the power steering pump.
Thanks for the detail. I should have given more info about the bolded item--trans fluid for the drive trim? There are reservoirs attached to each, then a reservoir in the center for the Bennett trim tabs. The mechanic added fluid to the the port side quite a while back when he replaced that solenoid (he used what a dock friend had on hand), and the level's down again. I presume that means some sort of repair may be in order, but until diagnosis I'll keep it topped off.
 
Has anyone had to replace the fridge? My 12V side has failed and the base of the fridge seems to have fluid in it.

Can you tell me the unit you replaced it with?
 
The fridge had been removed from mine, but the original Norcold owner's manual was with the other paperwork, so I cross referenced to the then-current Norcold replacement, NR751. DC leads were included; had to buy AC cord separately. It's been running 3+ years so far.

Hope that helps!
 
T, they no longer make the part that has gone bad in mine which was the transfer switch. The new Norcold that is supposed to fit the same opening does not! It's smaller than the opening.

With the help of another member here I found one that does and costs about the same. NovaKool out of Canada.
 
The fridge had been removed from mine, but the original Norcold owner's manual was with the other paperwork, so I cross referenced to the then-current Norcold replacement, NR751. DC leads were included; had to buy AC cord separately. It's been running 3+ years so far.

Hope that helps!
Here's my question: I am planning on installing a 110 fridge for now.
The fridge had been removed from mine, but the original Norcold owner's manual was with the other paperwork, so I cross referenced to the then-current Norcold replacement, NR751. DC leads were included; had to buy AC cord separately. It's been running 3+ years so far.

Hope that helps!
I'm planning on using a 110 fridge for now. Will I have to cut the plug off and slice into the existing lines?
 
Here's my question: I am planning on installing a 110 fridge for now.

I'm planning on using a 110 fridge for now. Will I have to cut the plug off and slice into the existing lines?
Do you mean a 110 only model fridge? Based on how we boat, we felt the dual voltage model was worth the investment and installed to the original specs so we can run the fridge while under way/on the hook, without running the generator. If you plan to only use it dockside or while on generator, or if you have a different battery/inverter setup to provide AC power more contnuously, a 110 only will do the job. (There are some threads specific to fridge/freezer mods if you want to explore in depth.)

And yes, that's what I chose to do based on recommendations from members here: remove the 3 prong connection and hard wire the AC lead into the AC line supplied for the original fridge.
 
If I remember correctly the 110 side of my original fridge on my 300 was just plugged in to a regular receptacle that was mounted under the counter behind the fridge, and the 12 volt side was hard wired.
 
Mine is the same. It is just plugged into a outlet behind the fridge.

T, I did find a unit that fits the cut out, a NovaKool out of Canada. I also decided to see if my old unit could be fixed somehow. Whit the help of a slip neighbor we found that the AC to DC switch had go bad in the power pack. We cleaned the board and replaced the switch. It's working as if was brand new again. I cancelled my order and saved $845.00.
 
I'm getting ready to winterize my 89 300 Sundancer for the first time. I'm fortunate to have all the manuals, and unless someone has put together a checklist they're willing to share, I'm going to develop my own.

Does anyone have a winterization checklist, with supplies that they're willing to share?
 

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