Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Adding speakers to bow area...? Any suggestions for how to add some speakers to the bow railing so can hear music when sitting on bow or cruising. Since radio is already blue tooth I am figuring I have to figure out how to run wires. Any suggestions.?
 
armentb said:
Adding speakers to bow area...? Any suggestions for how to add some speakers to the bow railing so can hear music when sitting on bow or cruising. Since radio is already blue tooth I am figuring I have to figure out how to run wires. Any suggestions.?
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what about just using a nice portable Bluetooth speaker on the bow when needed instead of hard wiring additional speakers?......that's what we do....

cliff
 
Bama said:
no not really. the system works on 2 pads with 6-10 micro switches each , along with 2 modules (called aft and forward....even though one is port and one is starboard). They don't call them that since the "port" (aka "aft") does not control just the port switch.

Each pad and each EIM are comingled as to whether they control the port or the starboard panel. they are all inter connected, and with software in each one there is no way to know if a new replacement would work. its a crappy system, unnecessarily complex. directly wiring each component is a better fix, but messy too. parts are cheap but labor high. In round no, SR charges about 400 for each replacement pad panel. the EIM are not the same, but average about 500-600 each. Yes there are 3 diff components inside that are accessible but SR only supports the whole unit. thus all 4 is the only fix that seems feasible unless one was willing to buy an try one at a time. they could burn up if mismatched to defective part. considering I cannot pull up anchor, run the bilge pump, or the head and so on, I'm in dry dock until it is fixed. mechanics says it is choice of high price parts and easy install (of a crappy system that my not last) or slow install, high labor but a long rocker term fix. it just a LOT of rocker switches n a small panel space. it may look crappy and work well. SR went for looks on the design, not function. it wont e supported forever.
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Are you serious about this?! Is the 2006 model that much different than the 2003? Sorry I haven't been around this thread lately to follow your issues, but over the last couple of years I have replaced both of my helm control pads, first one, then the other a year or so later. I paid approximately $300.00 each. And that fixed all of my problems. I didn't have to purchase the entire setup to keep everything synced. They just....worked. Unless I am missing something?
 
armentb said:
Adding speakers to bow area...? Any suggestions for how to add some speakers to the bow railing so can hear music when sitting on bow or cruising. Since radio is already blue tooth I am figuring I have to figure out how to run wires. Any suggestions.?
Click to expand...

Last assault on this forum now :)


I have a pair of speaker wires run from the stereo (in parallel with those in the cabin near the bow) into the anchor locker with a female connector on the end. Speakers that go topside have the male connector... I haven't used them in years, but they are there.


If I were to do it again, bluetooth is probably all that is needed as Cliff mentioned!
 
Has anyone replaced their foot pedal switches for their Windlass on the bow near the anchor locker? Looking for a good replacement. My 2002 280 Sundancer has switches with the brand name of SOPAC and they no longer make this part. I'd like to replace both switches because the plastic on these covers has eroded and one of the caps has fallen off and the other switch is very worn out by the sun. Thanks!!!
 
2008 Sundancer 280 DA - Stereo, TV, won't turn on. Everything else seems to be working. Not sure what the deal is. I presume a fuse somewhere but cant figure out how to check them. I can unscrew the fuse cover under the throttles but it doesn't seem to be able to come off. Obviously never had this problem before and it has to be something simple.
 
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Check to see if a GFI tripped. There is one near the sink/cooktop.
 
Which battery selector switch position do i choose when hooking up a trickle charger to ensure they all get topped off.
 
Thinking of making a nice teak platform to fill in the floor where you go down into the cabin. Seems like an awkward spot for a passenger to stand, or lack of a place, while underway.
 
Chrisvr6 said:
Which battery selector switch position do i choose when hooking up a trickle charger to ensure they all get topped off.
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Why not use the onboard charger? It doesn't matter what position the switch is on. Plus, it's much better than a typical trickle charger.

If you do get a trickle charger, get a good one. Cheap ones can cook a battery. At that point it won't matter what what position the switch is on since you'll hook directly to the battery. BUT... is the trickle charger approved for a gasoline bilge? And, you should really disconnect batteries that are tied together before charging.
 
Chrisvr6 said:
Thinking of making a nice teak platform to fill in the floor where you go down into the cabin. Seems like an awkward spot for a passenger to stand, or lack of a place, while underway.
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Wouldn't that make for an awful BIG step down into the cabin, then?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Why not use the onboard charger? It doesn't matter what position the switch is on. Plus, it's much better than a typical trickle charger.

If you do get a trickle charger, get a good one. Cheap ones can cook a battery. At that point it won't matter what what position the switch is on since you'll hook directly to the battery. BUT... is the trickle charger approved for a gasoline bilge? And, you should really disconnect batteries that are tied together before charging.
Click to expand...

Want to put it on charge the night before i take it to the harbor. You know, to make sure it starts.
 
Chrisvr6 said:
Want to put it on charge the night before i take it to the harbor. You know, to make sure it starts.
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But... if you're going to run an extension cord to the boat, why not just use the built-in charger? Seems like that would be the simplest and best solution, but maybe there's more going on that I'm not aware of.
 
Chrisvr6 said:
It would be removable of course. Like picture a teak bathmat kind.
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Gotcha - just a couple inches high, then? Don't go any higher - it could also turn into something that "flips up" if someone gets on the edge.

Another way to go... Make it sort of like how your sink cover fits. You could have it lay over top, though, with chocks on the inside to keep it from moving. Would be relatively thin, so easy to store. Plus, it fills that area in "almost" flush - with the door closed, it won't go anywhere.
 
Lazy Daze said:
But... if you're going to run an extension cord to the boat, why not just use the built-in charger? Seems like that would be the simplest and best solution, but maybe there's more going on that I'm not aware of.
Click to expand...

The charger has a plug on it?! Thought it was hardwired.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Gotcha - just a couple inches high, then? Don't go any higher - it could also turn into something that "flips up" if someone gets on the edge.

Another way to go... Make it sort of like how your sink cover fits. You could have it lay over top, though, with chocks on the inside to keep it from moving. Would be relatively thin, so easy to store. Plus, it fills that area in "almost" flush - with the door closed, it won't go anywhere.
Click to expand...

Kinda like this but if you could move it up to be flush with floor or back down like this when moored. Not sure if the shape of cutout stays the same all the way up. https://goo.gl/photos/qkJnVaX5UehoYPeD7
 
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