Hoping to help

Not that fuse panel, should just be a busbar either under the dash or in the gunrail with a seperate 6-8ga wire from the battery running to it and probably another 10ga from the bar to the fuse panel.

I just thought i'd throw it out there as an alternative, i've seen it done before but that had factory amp and subs.

Good Luck,
Chris
 
Hey Chris - welcome to the board! I have a strange problem with a 1996 270DA with twin 4.3's. The fuel pump on the starboard engine has decided to start running without the key being on and engine off - essentially anytime the battery switch is set to on. A separate thread was created here:
http://clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8159

Any help you can provide would be great!
 
Looks like Chris is up to about 2 hours of time on the board. Who's coughing up the $180? :)

Chris, thanks for volunteering. The hardest part is when someone describes a part and you can't even tell what they are talking about, let alone diagnose it or point the in the right direction! Hopefully we won't drive you away asking for manuals, instructions, how to's or flying you out to Spokane, WA to look at both of my boats!
 
If I remember correctly the seat box that the hatch sits on does come out, after taking out screws and cutting and fighting the 5200 sealer which is practically cement, you will tear a bit gelcoat off in this removal luckily its not notcieable after you put it back on.

you aint kidding about that 5200. i replaced three blower vents on the port side of my boat this spring and that crap absolutely did pull gel coat OFF. i cant imagine why anyone would use 5200 when there are 8 screws holding each vent in and it was caulked with marine silicone. and they didnt use the 5200 to seal it bc it was only placed on in dabs rather than a continuous bead (thank GOD or the whole boat would have been delaminated to get these three things off!)
 
Chris, welcome to the forum.

Question: Is there ANY way to read the alarm codes on a 4.3 MPI engine without hooking up the mercury interface thingy and laptop?
 
What part of the boat is the "gunrail"?

That's the thingy that holds up the gun you use to blow the jet skis' out of the water. Usually .50 caliber is standard issue, but variations either way will work. Usually bow mounted although gunrail mounting on the back will suffice too. It's on top of the gunwhale.
 
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you guys are mean!

GunwaleFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopediaJump to: navigation, search

The gunwale (pronounced /ˈɡʌnəl/ "gunnel" to rhyme with "tunnel") is a nautical term describing the top edge of the side of a boat.
Wale is the same word as the skin injury, a weal, which, too, forms a ridge. Originally the gunwale was the "Gun ridge" on a sailing warship. This represented the strengthening wale or structural band added to the design of the ship, at and above the level of a gun deck. It was designed to accommodate the stresses imposed by the use of artillery.
In wooden boats, the gunwale remained, mounted inboard of the sheer strake, regardless of the use of gunnery. In modern boats, it is the top edge of the side where there is usually some form of stiffening.
 
Gary is hillarious but you people make it to easy for him.

Besides I was sure Gary's boat had a gunrail.
 
if speling kownted on theze boreds, weed awl be going to sumer skool!

dont skair away the newbees! :grin:
 
Welcome Chris, I did send you an email with a Sea Ray problem. Any advice on the lift cradle?
 
Hey Chiris, thanks for giving us your time.
I was looing at a 1996 40 Sedan Bridge. They survey showed the core was wet on port side in a couple areas. Most likely from the port lights and rub rail leaking. If the core samples show that the balsa is healthy (but wet), am I crazy to buy the boat at about $25k below our original agreed value? Do you have any experience drying these things out?
I figure best case would be to leave the core samples out for the summer and keep the A/C running. Hopefully it will start to dry out. Worst case, dig out the balsa over the winter.
Any advise/experience? Would Sea Ray do anything on this old of a boat, if it is shown to be poor factory work as the cause?

Thanks!
 
Hello everyone,

I have not been on the boards in quite sometime, mostly due to most of you breaking your boats:grin:. j/k

But I have been quite busy, and along the time frame from my last post until now, I was also promoted to service manager, but I still work in the shop when needed.

I will try to visit the forums a bit more often now that I have computer sitting in front of me:smt038
 
Welcome back...how hard is it to fix the leak coming through my steering arm ? I have heard there is a pin that needs replaced along with the seals ? it is a 1992 bravo II
steeringarm2fm6.jpg
 
Its a job, it involves removing your drive, bellhousing and gimbal ring.

The hardest part is getting the 1" nut that holds the swivel shaft up.
If you can't get to it then the motor will need to be pulled or you need the kit from merc to drill and tap 2 holes in your gimbal housing.

I find its easier to just pull the motor, but I have access to hoists and cranes, and can get a motor out fairly quick. Even at that point I still had to grind down a wrench to get it in there so I could get a 1/4 turn at a time.

Mercury recommends a BFH and long chisel, either way you decide to do it. So yes you will need a new nut if you choose that route.

Then its a matter of replacing the seal on the shaft and reassembly.:thumbsup:

Good Luck,
Chris
 

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