40 sedan bridge forum

Hey Everyone,
Yesterday ended a boating chapter I sold my 70' freshwater boat so it's time to get serious about my next purchase. Even though I haven't been out on the water in one we have pretty much have decided on 400 Sedan Bridge with cummins, probably for my budget around a 2001 model. I have been lurking,learning and reading here on the forum. Special thanks to Bill-ZZ13 for spending some time with us at his boat several months back and telling us about some of the features. (I see the boat sold on your dock) I have found some information in lot of areas searching but now trying to get a maintenance budget. I most likely be keeping the boat in the Hilton Head/Beaufort SC area. Can anyone share with me things like how often coolers are cleaned, AC serviced,bottom scraped and how often,bottom paint and rough cost? I know these vary by regions etc. Some stuff I can do myself but probably not changing impellers I am 6'-2 250lb and probably can't squeeze in that space. Thanks I am looking forward to being more active and joining the SeaRay family,
Ray
 
Hey Everyone,
Yesterday ended a boating chapter I sold my 70' freshwater boat so it's time to get serious about my next purchase. Even though I haven't been out on the water in one we have pretty much have decided on 400 Sedan Bridge with cummins, probably for my budget around a 2001 model. I have been lurking,learning and reading here on the forum. Special thanks to Bill-ZZ13 for spending some time with us at his boat several months back and telling us about some of the features. (I see the boat sold on your dock) I have found some information in lot of areas searching but now trying to get a maintenance budget. I most likely be keeping the boat in the Hilton Head/Beaufort SC area. Can anyone share with me things like how often coolers are cleaned, AC serviced,bottom scraped and how often,bottom paint and rough cost? I know these vary by regions etc. Some stuff I can do myself but probably not changing impellers I am 6'-2 250lb and probably can't squeeze in that space. Thanks I am looking forward to being more active and joining the SeaRay family,
Ray
Hi Ray. I think I may have sent you my maintenance schedule. If not, let me know and I will send it. It has the answer to all your engine maintenance stuff. But figure annual oil changes, fuel filters, coolant filters. Changing impellers every 2 years. Pulling and cleaning after coolers every 2-3 years. Inspecting transmission oil cooler and heat exchangers when you do the after coolers and clean them if needed. I just had my bottom painted. It was about $2800 total cost (haulout, pressure wash, sanding, masking, painting with two coats of an extra expensive paint, painting of all underwater metal). Our local diver charges $3 per foot to clean the bottom. So it runs me $132 everytime. He's kinda steep compared to the Florida marinas we have stayed at ($1.5-$2 per foot there - I have never paid over $100 there). But there is no competition. Since the repainting I have actually gone to cleaning myself to try to stay ahead of any growth. Here in Beaufort growth is plentiful. So in these warm summer months either run the boat a couple times a week or plan on a cleaning before every major outing.

Yes, the 2002 sold. Its now at Mt. Pleasant just north of Charleston. I had the pleasure of taking it from Beaufort to its new home as the new owner wanted some on the water help and training. Call if you want to get back on the boat - be glad to take you for a ride this time.
 
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Bill,
Thanks! I sent you a pm. I spent the day on the water giving driving lesson to the gentleman that bought my boat. The biggest boat he has had was a pontoon, so 70' with twins was new to him. He defindently bought his second boat first. I think I am already going through withdrawals. Lol
 
Bill,
I think you may have contacted me about mine. I have Cat 3116's with 1000 hours on them. I know this is older than you want. My maintenance is oil and filters every year, impellors every year, racor's every year. The heat exchangers were done this year, the transmission coolers were done last year. Turbo filters are done every year. Until this year the bottom was done every year. We live on the boat now, so she hasn"t been out of the water since April 2015. I clean the bottom and running gear every 2 weeks. The price is negotiable.
 
Mike,
That was me that contacted you. After you replied I recognized you and Someplace Else from the forum. I have you on my short list. I am looking at few others closer to home first. Really like the cherry interior and the cummins but I know the Cats are good. It's a big plus you have been doing the proper maintenance and a 96 would be much easier on my budget.
Ray
 
I have a genny question. I have the 8KW Westerbeke in my boat (I'm not sure if the Cummins guys also have the Westerbeke, or if they switched to something else). Anyway, I was runnning the genny this weekend, and it ran great, but I felt the flow of water out of the boat wasn't what it should have been. I was also in the water and felt it, and it was pretty warm. I ordered a new impeller today and plan to replace it this weekend.

Here are my questions:
1. If anyone's ever felt the output water, was it warm/hot, or is it cool? Just curious.
2. How much of a PITA is it to swap the impeller. Access looks horrendous. Any tips or tricks on how to do it on this boat?
 
I have a genny question. I have the 8KW Westerbeke in my boat (I'm not sure if the Cummins guys also have the Westerbeke, or if they switched to something else). Anyway, I was runnning the genny this weekend, and it ran great, but I felt the flow of water out of the boat wasn't what it should have been. I was also in the water and felt it, and it was pretty warm. I ordered a new impeller today and plan to replace it this weekend.

Here are my questions:
1. If anyone's ever felt the output water, was it warm/hot, or is it cool? Just curious.
2. How much of a PITA is it to swap the impeller. Access looks horrendous. Any tips or tricks on how to do it on this boat?

My recolection is the water should be very warm. As for the inpellor, I had to unbolt the genny and slidw it forward to get access to the water pump. It was easier then trying to reach around.
 
I have a weterbeke too, and the exhaust water temp is warm, not hot. I've changed the impeller without tuning any heavy bolts, but I also believe they relocated the raw water pump in the later models. Mine is under the alternator, on the port side of the engine.
 
I have a genny question. I have the 8KW Westerbeke in my boat (I'm not sure if the Cummins guys also have the Westerbeke, or if they switched to something else). Anyway, I was runnning the genny this weekend, and it ran great, but I felt the flow of water out of the boat wasn't what it should have been. I was also in the water and felt it, and it was pretty warm. I ordered a new impeller today and plan to replace it this weekend.

Here are my questions:
1. If anyone's ever felt the output water, was it warm/hot, or is it cool? Just curious.
2. How much of a PITA is it to swap the impeller. Access looks horrendous. Any tips or tricks on how to do it on this boat?
John, my generator is the Westerbeke 8.0 but is fairly new, so my impeller is very easy access on the port side. So I can't help with yours much. But, when your impeller arrives if the pin is the wrong size or type, don't sweat it. The pin can be removed and replaced with the one that is on the current impeller. I seem to get impellers with fat pins with threads and my pump uses skinny pins with no threads. I've been reusing the same pin.
 
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John, my generator is the Westerbeke 8.0 but is fairly new, so my impeller is very easy access on the port side. So I can't help with yours much. But, when your impeller arrives if the pin is the wrong size or type, don't sweat it. The pin can be removed and replaced with the one that is on the current impeller. I seem to get impellers with fat pins with threads and my pump uses skinny pins with no threads. I've been reusing the same pin.

OK, I just hope I can get to the stupid thing. The scratches and cuts on my arms just healed from replacing the rudder packing last week. Why is nothing easy to get to on this boat?!?
 
To those with the cat / westerbeke combination. I replaced my gen-set control module due to the generator starting itself un-commanded and when I wasn't near the vessel. Question - in normal operation how do you shut your generator down? Does the single momentary switch on main panel shut it down? I only get a starting & run sequence from this switch and therefor have to pop the hatch to depress stop switch. I have 98 SB.


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I use the same switch that is on the panel to preheat, start it and stop it.
 
I use the same switch that is on the panel to preheat, start it and stop it.

Thanks and during your use of this switch, a momentary push initiates the preheat for approx 45 seconds (then times out), during the blinking (preheat) phase your pressing of the switch you control the starter motor duration, then for shut down.... is it a momentary or continuous pressing of the switch for an amount of time to execute shutdown?


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Narrowing down my search for a 400 Sedan Bridge and will be making a trip to step on board a few 2001 models in two weeks. One of them I will be looking at the broker already told me it has new canvas but the Isinglass probably has bout a year of life left. So I guess you can have just the IG replaced anybody know a approximate cost? I always figured you just replace canvas and all at one time? Also he told me the two captain chairs probably have about a year before they would need some attention. So can you get new covers from Sea Ray? Or what do most people do. Any idea what options and cost I need to plan for?
 
Ray, Boatswains Locker in Jacksonville did the original canvas for Sea Ray for this model. They still have all the templates and will build to order for you, and send you the canvas ready to hang and installation tools. The seller of the 2002 went this route while the boat was listed. He paid about $6k for the full bridge enclosure including the Bimini top.

For just the clear, you'd have to get a local canvas shop to take out the old and stitch in the new. I did it on a previous boat a few years ago and averaged about $150 a panel.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Has anyone replaced their master head duckbills? Time to do mine. My preference is to remove the 8 screws and pull out the pump/bellows assembly so that I can also check the bellows, rather than taking the two hose ends off. I did that on the other unit and was pretty straight forward, but did not need to change its duckbills. So I have no experience with the duckbills. Will I be able to remove all 4 duckbills with the pump/bellows off? I know I can see and touch the inner two.

Also, I find it interesting that Sea Ray plumbed the closest head to the closest vacuum generator/tank (the Guest head to the forward generator) and the furthest head from the furthest tank (the master head to the aft generator). That makes for a very long pumping run for the master head, and a lot more time to pump it to vacuum. Seems like they would have swapped the plumbing lines to the generators so that the plumbing runs from both toilets to generator would have been about the same lengths.
 
My sliding door is starting to squeak and roll rough on the tracks. I'd like to rebuild and replace as needed. Anybody have a source for parts?

Just a follow-up. I pulled the door apart to find a part number (Home Depot cannot get the parts ). I re-assembled with the old parts , reversing the wheels and the door slides smooth again. I guess I bought some time.
 
Has anyone replaced their master head duckbills? Time to do mine. My preference is to remove the 8 screws and pull out the pump/bellows assembly so that I can also check the bellows, rather than taking the two hose ends off. I did that on the other unit and was pretty straight forward, but did not need to change its duckbills. So I have no experience with the duckbills. Will I be able to remove all 4 duckbills with the pump/bellows off? I know I can see and touch the inner two.

Also, I find it interesting that Sea Ray plumbed the closest head to the closest vacuum generator/tank (the Guest head to the forward generator) and the furthest head from the furthest tank (the master head to the aft generator). That makes for a very long pumping run for the master head, and a lot more time to pump it to vacuum. Seems like they would have swapped the plumbing lines to the generators so that the plumbing runs from both toilets to generator would have been about the same lengths.

Bill the duck bills are on that pump you are touching. Keep un screwing towards the hose it's all there.....and yes I was surprised as well with the hose routing.
 
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